rgextreme1998
Veteran
Hi guys, I have an 03 Rx-1 121 and installed a metric m10 bolted in per TY instructions. Shock were rebuilt before putting it in. Everything inspected, AOK. So before riding i checked the action on the skid and it seemed ok. Rear slider blocks were moving as they should; was unable to bottom out suspension by pushing on it with my arms.
then, i took it for a ride and came back and now I have a real spongy suspension i can bottom out by pushing on it with my arm. The main problem I see is that the rear slider block are not sliding back as they should. They move about a 1/4 inch and then stop and then the skid collapses.
I read that DIFFERENT rear slider blocks are required for the RX-1 - can anyone verify? Has anyone had this happen on their M10? I was going to mess around with the FRA but I don't think it will help the action. What I don't get is that it WAS working at the beginning of my 10 mile ride but when I got home it was mush. Can supply pics upon request.
I have the metric M10.
THANKS in advance!
rg
then, i took it for a ride and came back and now I have a real spongy suspension i can bottom out by pushing on it with my arm. The main problem I see is that the rear slider block are not sliding back as they should. They move about a 1/4 inch and then stop and then the skid collapses.
I read that DIFFERENT rear slider blocks are required for the RX-1 - can anyone verify? Has anyone had this happen on their M10? I was going to mess around with the FRA but I don't think it will help the action. What I don't get is that it WAS working at the beginning of my 10 mile ride but when I got home it was mush. Can supply pics upon request.
I have the metric M10.
THANKS in advance!
rg
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have the new style M10 in my 05 Vector...same chassis as your as I understand.
FAST told me to cut the length of the slider blocks down to "X" inches (don't remember what it was but I can go look if needed).
If the side panels (if you have them) that hold the blocks in are too tight, the blocks will bind. Tight is good, overtight is not. Last year when I rebuilt my M10, I had to make sure I didn't overtighten things.
Hope this helps.
FAST told me to cut the length of the slider blocks down to "X" inches (don't remember what it was but I can go look if needed).
If the side panels (if you have them) that hold the blocks in are too tight, the blocks will bind. Tight is good, overtight is not. Last year when I rebuilt my M10, I had to make sure I didn't overtighten things.
Hope this helps.
rgextreme1998
Veteran
thanks - we did some measuring and compared to my brothers rear shock, mine is an inch shorter for some reason.... we're going to swap the shocks and see. not sure why center eye to eye the shocks are different. we are thinking that would affect the angle?
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
I've called FAST a few times for help, and was honest with them. I didn't buy the skid from them...bought it from a friend.
They were very helpful every time. I'd give them a call.
They were very helpful every time. I'd give them a call.
rgextreme1998
Veteran
Measurement
Could someone do me a huge favor and measure from the bottom of the top cross shaft on the rear torque arm straight down to the top of the high fax? Measure right behind the wheel.
Is it 10.5 inches? track should be off the ground when measuring.
thanks, rg
Could someone do me a huge favor and measure from the bottom of the top cross shaft on the rear torque arm straight down to the top of the high fax? Measure right behind the wheel.
Is it 10.5 inches? track should be off the ground when measuring.
thanks, rg
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: Measurement
The measurement of rear arm travel is affected by the limiter strap setting on the M-10. If your limiter is set in the 3-3 position you'll likely measure around 8.5" between the upper cross shaft of the rear arm and the bump stop. If you're using the 4-4 setting you'll have closer to 10" of travel. Only with the limiter removed is the travel a full 10.5".
The measurement of rear arm travel is affected by the limiter strap setting on the M-10. If your limiter is set in the 3-3 position you'll likely measure around 8.5" between the upper cross shaft of the rear arm and the bump stop. If you're using the 4-4 setting you'll have closer to 10" of travel. Only with the limiter removed is the travel a full 10.5".
rgextreme1998 said:
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: M10 in RX-1 Help Please - rear slider blocks not sliding
Sorry, don't have a skid to measure for you. Do have some experience messing with the metric skid though. I can tell you the blocks are the same, for any sled, across the board to my knowledge. You would trim the back side to allow for more (slightly more) transfer. That's it. That move delays coupling a little bit.
Have you verified your front to rear mounting point center to centers? That dimension is really critical on this skid, and would draw my attention immediately with what you are describing. Sounds like that dim is too long on your sled. That block should come back and bottom out in that slot, causing the front and rear arms to couple up - way before the skid bottoms.
BTW, You don't have a dolly or anything under the sled, anywhere, do you?
Sorry, don't have a skid to measure for you. Do have some experience messing with the metric skid though. I can tell you the blocks are the same, for any sled, across the board to my knowledge. You would trim the back side to allow for more (slightly more) transfer. That's it. That move delays coupling a little bit.
Have you verified your front to rear mounting point center to centers? That dimension is really critical on this skid, and would draw my attention immediately with what you are describing. Sounds like that dim is too long on your sled. That block should come back and bottom out in that slot, causing the front and rear arms to couple up - way before the skid bottoms.
BTW, You don't have a dolly or anything under the sled, anywhere, do you?
rgextreme1998 said:Hi guys, I have an 03 Rx-1 121 and installed a metric m10 bolted in per TY instructions. Shock were rebuilt before putting it in. Everything inspected, AOK. So before riding i checked the action on the skid and it seemed ok. Rear slider blocks were moving as they should; was unable to bottom out suspension by pushing on it with my arms.
then, i took it for a ride and came back and now I have a real spongy suspension i can bottom out by pushing on it with my arm. The main problem I see is that the rear slider block are not sliding back as they should. They move about a 1/4 inch and then stop and then the skid collapses.
I read that DIFFERENT rear slider blocks are required for the RX-1 - can anyone verify? Has anyone had this happen on their M10? I was going to mess around with the FRA but I don't think it will help the action. What I don't get is that it WAS working at the beginning of my 10 mile ride but when I got home it was mush. Can supply pics upon request.
I have the metric M10.
THANKS in advance!
rg
rgextreme1998
Veteran
limiter strap
Thanks guys for the replies and ideas. Latest is I pulled the rear shock out and now it seems to measure the same as my brothers eye to eye.
I think we are now focused on the coupler blocks.
I have front limiter at 4th position. The sled is on the stand off the ground when measuring. I did measure the center bolt to center bolt and it is 25.5. I am 99% sure the mounting is correct. I used the ty instructions and for the front is the stock hole and the back uses the stock brackets and existing pilot holes were drilled.
The other thing we are wondering about is the angle of the arm to the coupler block. We think the angle SHOULD be right in line with the couple block, but it is not, when on the stand and fully extended up. See pic where you can barely see the arm and the angle to the coupler block.
Thanks guys for the replies and ideas. Latest is I pulled the rear shock out and now it seems to measure the same as my brothers eye to eye.
I think we are now focused on the coupler blocks.
I have front limiter at 4th position. The sled is on the stand off the ground when measuring. I did measure the center bolt to center bolt and it is 25.5. I am 99% sure the mounting is correct. I used the ty instructions and for the front is the stock hole and the back uses the stock brackets and existing pilot holes were drilled.
The other thing we are wondering about is the angle of the arm to the coupler block. We think the angle SHOULD be right in line with the couple block, but it is not, when on the stand and fully extended up. See pic where you can barely see the arm and the angle to the coupler block.
Attachments
Dman142
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2008
- Messages
- 6
I'm the 'brother' Mr. RG is talking about. I may chime in from time to time with my questions. I refurbished the skid and help mount it.
I am comparing it to the M10 in my Polaris. Exactly the same skid. Metric version etc. With the 4-4 limiter setup in my Polaris I measure 10.5" to the bump stops. I guess asfter many evenings of comparing mine to his, we're kinda stuck. It appears that the angle of the rear torque arm is laying too flat on his sled....not as steep of an angle as mine.
My rear arm is darn near parallel ( in line with ) the rear coupler blocks, while his appears to be about 15 degrees flatter. I'm going to make the 2 hour drive today and try to figure this out. In theory, all the measurements should be the same if mounted correctly in any sled I think.
D
I am comparing it to the M10 in my Polaris. Exactly the same skid. Metric version etc. With the 4-4 limiter setup in my Polaris I measure 10.5" to the bump stops. I guess asfter many evenings of comparing mine to his, we're kinda stuck. It appears that the angle of the rear torque arm is laying too flat on his sled....not as steep of an angle as mine.
My rear arm is darn near parallel ( in line with ) the rear coupler blocks, while his appears to be about 15 degrees flatter. I'm going to make the 2 hour drive today and try to figure this out. In theory, all the measurements should be the same if mounted correctly in any sled I think.
D
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
Is that picture posted with the sled on the ground? With the rear off of the ground, is the rear arm angle the same between the Polaris and Yamaha? Does the front portion of the rear suspension on the Yamaha hit the ground before the front portion does on the other sled (as you're lowering the rear ends down from being lifted off of the ground)? If the front of the rear suspension on the Yamaha hits the ground first it will cause the rear arm to couple and collapse a bit, and it will decrease the rear arm angle as shown. There can be differences between 2 sleds as the tunnels are not all the same. Some M-10 applications will have the rear end sitting parallel to the ground in the 4-4 position, while others will have the rear end not parallel, with the front arm closer to the ground than the rear arm (again with the sled off of the ground). This is how it is mounted in my dad's Cat and his rear arm compresses like the pic above.
Dman142
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2008
- Messages
- 6
The Polaris with the rear off the ground, the arm is almost perfectly in line with the slider blocks. On the Yamaha, it is still 'flat' compared to the Polaris.
I gotta head to his house now. M10 rescue team on the way.
D
I gotta head to his house now. M10 rescue team on the way.
D
rgextreme1998
Veteran
the pic is with the sled off the ground on the stand.
rgextreme1998
Veteran
latest
when we raise the belly pan with the lift about 4 inches, then the rear suspension works fine when pushing down on the bumper. otherwise the action is wrong. we also 1/4 inch off the coupler blocks. we moved the front torque arm to the bottom rail hole - did not make a difference.
we'll call fast on monday. any other suggestions? thanks guys
when we raise the belly pan with the lift about 4 inches, then the rear suspension works fine when pushing down on the bumper. otherwise the action is wrong. we also 1/4 inch off the coupler blocks. we moved the front torque arm to the bottom rail hole - did not make a difference.
we'll call fast on monday. any other suggestions? thanks guys
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I'd like to see the mounting dimensions you used. The link to that so I don't have to dig?
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
I bought a mount kit for my Vector from FAST. The front arm DOES NOT mount in the stock holes on my Vector, rather in the undrilled holes right where your boot toes are. My mounting dimension is 25.5".
Here's a few pics I just took:
Here's a few pics I just took:
