Hello! Can anywone help me with the center to center measurement between front and rear arm bolts on a pre 2001 M-10 suspension? Is it right that the front arm bolt position is the same as original on a 04 Warrior?
When I mounted my M-10, the kit instructed me to drill out a factory hole near the foot rest. The hole was visible on the inside of the tunnel in the first sheet of aluminum.
Thank you, but if it was on the Vector the suspension is different than Pro action on a -04 Warrior. If i use the original front mount hole it looks like i have to cut off a bit of the tooths on my extroverts. Anyone have the CC measurment (front-rear bolts)?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
mforare said:
I certainly wouldn't cut off the extrovert teeth. The more common move is to trim the rails to get a proper fit. I had to do that on my conversion. I would wonder though, why not move the suspension back to gain the necessary clearance to save yourself the trouble if possible? May not take much....
You could tell if you'll be able to do that (and stay within track adjustment range) by comparing the dimension from the rear of the rear idler wheel to the front skid mounting point on each of the suspensions? Just tossing out ideas. FWIW
Thanks for the reply but it isn´t the rail that touch the teeth it is the upper part of the front arm, it is a little bit thicker than original. I dont think i have to cut away more than about 3/16". I read somewhere that to use original front hole and it wouldn´t be any problem with original drivers.
Ahicks, after a little bit of thinking, maybe it is, as you say, better to move the front arm back to gain clearence!? I will compare the pro-action and M10.
I'm thinking the factory hole that was not drilled out in my Vector is probably the holes they used to mount the Pro-action rear skid. The Vector, RX-1 and Apex all use the same chassis. I'll have to take a look at my Vector but I think you're right about driver clearance being an issue. I had a tough time getting my m-10 to line up with the front holes just because it was tight to the drivers.
Are you using 9 tooth drivers?
Are you using 9 tooth drivers?
Hello AKrider! I´m using 9 tooth Whal Bros driver. When i looked at the original pro-action i notice that the paint was scrathed off on the front arm because the clearence to the tooth. I wonder if center to center measurement hole in chassie for front and rear arm should be the same as on the the rails? If it is a true paralellogram!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
mforare said:
The M-10 center to center is what you're after? I'm pretty sure all you'd have to do to get that would be to just measure the skid at that point with the rear arm pulled forward (assuming the springs are installed and the strap is fully extended)?
Yes, the CC is very important! I read somewhere 25,555", maybe that is correct?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
That does sound close. How close is that to what you get when measuring as suggested above?
I will check it as soon as i get the rails back (paint removing)
The CC is 25,55" according to Fast! Will this suspension handle 310 dynoed hp?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had a Fast M-10 like yours on an XCR. After dinking with it most of a season I swapped it for an Edge suspension. The Edge was much more controllable through the available adjustments for coupling and transfer. The M-10 was really lacking in that capacity. No/very little transfer available from it.
With the kind of power you're talking about, it may be a whole different game I'll likely never experience. You may not want the transfer capabilities...... I know that's why the mountain guys like them (lack of transfer).
With the kind of power you're talking about, it may be a whole different game I'll likely never experience. You may not want the transfer capabilities...... I know that's why the mountain guys like them (lack of transfer).
I tried to move the suspension back 12mm but the tension on track was to high. When used the original hole for front arm, the tension was in range. It also looks like the track will hit the rearcooler before it hit the rubber on rails, any idea? Is it possible to lower the back mount, lets say 15mm, without hurting the geometry?
