ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Looking at your picture, shouldn't the block be located at the other end of the slot when unloaded as shown?
The position it's in as shown is the coupled position, where the only way the rear can collapse further is to take the front with it?
That was my concern regarding your question about dropping the rear 15mm also. If you drop the rear, the front should be dropped also. To drop the rear alone, the rear may couple quicker, affecting your ride greatly.
Thinking that in use, the block should be somewhere just below the top of it's travel, only hitting the bottom on larger bumps if I remember right. That block location within the slot is controlled by the c to c dim. you were asking about. Looks to me like the c to c you're using in this pic is too long?
Then again, I could have that totally backwards. A conventional suspension only couples when it hits a big enough bump. This one may be coupled full time? Too long ago, I've forgotten for sure one way or the other.
The position it's in as shown is the coupled position, where the only way the rear can collapse further is to take the front with it?
That was my concern regarding your question about dropping the rear 15mm also. If you drop the rear, the front should be dropped also. To drop the rear alone, the rear may couple quicker, affecting your ride greatly.
Thinking that in use, the block should be somewhere just below the top of it's travel, only hitting the bottom on larger bumps if I remember right. That block location within the slot is controlled by the c to c dim. you were asking about. Looks to me like the c to c you're using in this pic is too long?
Then again, I could have that totally backwards. A conventional suspension only couples when it hits a big enough bump. This one may be coupled full time? Too long ago, I've forgotten for sure one way or the other.
On the picture the limiter strap in front is not in position, thats why the block is where it is. When you tighten it up the block move to the upper position. The cc is 25.55" i checked it more than twice
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
mforare said:On the picture the limiter strap in front is not in position, thats why the block is where it is. When you tighten it up the block move to the upper position. The cc is 25.55" i checked it more than twice
So what does it look like from this view with the strap attached? Is the front of the skid still contacting the floor? From what you are saying, and looking at that pic, it sounds like one or both of your mounting heights are not correct for this sled?
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Why don't you use a mount kit from FAST??? An M10 went in perfectly in my 05 Vector with a mount kit. No issues at all!
I gotta ask......if you're running 310 (or whatever) HP, why on earth do you want an M10? Wrong skid for high HP sleds IMO due to lack of transfer.
I gotta ask......if you're running 310 (or whatever) HP, why on earth do you want an M10? Wrong skid for high HP sleds IMO due to lack of transfer.
I decide to make my own mount kit because it is a little bit of a challenge. I moved the skid back 5 mm to gain clearence to the extroverts. I read somewhere that cut of up to 10 mm at the back of the coupling block will give you more transfer. I will let you know how it ended up when we get some snow
Update! The ride is much smoother than original but right now i fighting with track ratching. At low boost 0,8 bar it work but when i hit the throttle at high boost, 1,2 bar the track start ratching. When the skid transfer the track get looser.
You're ratcheting over your extros???
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
mforare said:
That's REALLY odd. I was under the impresssion standard Fast geometry stretched the track to help control bottoming - due to the "falling rate" design? Yours is working backwards from that. That's crazy....
The front arm cross shaft - is it mounted at about the same height as the driveshaft within the tunnel?
Have you posted this over on snowest? Interested in what you find!
When the back of skid compress and the front end dont the track actually get looser, but when the whole skid compress the track tension rise. The front arm cross shaft is mounted at same height as original shaft.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
mforare said:
I don't get it. How can the back compress without the front if the skid is coupled? Have you cut the coupling block way down?
Hello!
I cut the block around 5 mm. When i lift the front of the snowmobile 30 cm and press down the back until the coupling block hits stop i notiice the track get looser.
I cut the block around 5 mm. When i lift the front of the snowmobile 30 cm and press down the back until the coupling block hits stop i notiice the track get looser.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
mforare said:
So you have your answer? Or at least something to try?
