Making ride more fun

We ride hard with some offtrail hard running and havent been able to make the pads on the rear arm put even a scratch on the inner wheels on the back axle. We removed them on advice of big time cat riders we know that have had chassis since they came out. They all remove the whole rod and some of them are big guys.
I tried a shorty LE last year for a rip on mixed trail and honestly liked the 137 better. I always found these heavier but powerful yamaha four strokes were better balanced with longer skidframe. Part of my issue with it could have been stock shock setup in it, we always revalve rebuild ours and they ride amazing afterward, as good as any sled i get to ride.
 
We ride hard with some offtrail hard running and havent been able to make the pads on the rear arm put even a scratch on the inner wheels on the back axle. We removed them on advice of big time cat riders we know that have had chassis since they came out. They all remove the whole rod and some of them are big guys.
I tried a shorty LE last year for a rip on mixed trail and honestly liked the 137 better. I always found these heavier but powerful yamaha four strokes were better balanced with longer skidframe. Part of my issue with it could have been stock shock setup in it, we always revalve rebuild ours and they ride amazing afterward, as good as any sled i get to ride.
I tightened my track today , and moved the transfer stopper rod back to the non stock holes.
The rod is about a 1/4 inch from the rear wheels .
I don't believe the transfer pads will ever hit the rear wheels , as they don't line up with the wheels . the rod allows you to change your transfer , with the rubbers .
My son rides AC race sleds on the trails , and they don't have the rod period .
With revalved shocks and softer torsion springs that sled is a hoot to ride .
 
If you leave stock wheels in I believe you can remove rod. But I think I read on here previously, if you have a big wheel kit, you cant remove rod. Only the plastic blocks. Have to leave rod in with bigger wheels.
 
I seem to recall that from previous posts .
From what I see , the pads cant hit the wheels , as they don't line up with the tri hub.
And I would ,imagine/guess/estimate/, once you have enough track stretch , the cross member where the pads are attached won't hit the rear axle wheels either.
That being said , as much as the consensus appears to be run a tighter track than looser , than the Yamaha spec , if you have any track droop when its off the ground , should that be ok ?
I don't have a measuring device .
Anybody ever tightened their track too much ?
If so, what are the consequences ?
 


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