max rolph
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doesnt make sense you can only run low 70's in grams of weight, CVT clutchs are your DYNO.... if you make any HP/Torque gains, you will spin rpm higher with the previous clutching and need to control by adding weight or shift speed. on two strokes ive always preached... change one thing at a time and test, if your rpm goes up keeping all else same.... your making more HP. im sure same goes for 4 strokes. this is why a DRAGY wrks withh back to back changes.
Doc Harley
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I think I'm very close to things. If I am correct I am leaking 1.5 lb of boost somewhere. I'll get itThis is why I like to have my sleds dynoed to make sure sled is making power the tuners claim. When motor is right, then you know it’s all about your clutching and gearing!!!! My $.02……
I'm running a home brew 2.5" and should be compatible with TD 's 3" stock mod muffler.What muffler are you running? Sled came with a ggb mountain can on it(wanted to tear my head off from the drone). I put ms17 and all parts in..rpm were 9000 with 72.5 gram area dalton. I sent my muffler to td and did there stock mod 3inch..bang the limter instantly..running 76 grams now.
Just over 40mph the wind noise, sled noise, etc. Drowns out the drone. Thou, maybe it's not flowing enough?!?! An issue that I will look at soon.
Doc Harley
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I'm with you max. My mind started to scatter and I wanted to fix everything all at once. Now I'm more relaxed and I think I have a 1.5 lb boost leak.doesnt make sense you can only run low 70's in grams of weight, CVT clutchs are your DYNO.... if you make any HP/Torque gains, you will spin rpm higher with the previous clutching and need to control by adding weight or shift speed. on two strokes ive always preached... change one thing at a time and test, if your rpm goes up keeping all else same.... your making more HP. im sure same goes for 4 strokes. this is why a DRAGY wrks withh back to back changes.
I boost up to 18.2 lb for about a second and the rest of the run it drops down in the 16s.
I'm sure that's got to be causing my RPMs and weight to go from one thing to another.
I sure hope that makes sense.
THEPASMAN
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Is this with the stock primary or the apexWhat muffler are you running? Sled came with a ggb mountain can on it(wanted to tear my head off from the drone). I put ms17 and all parts in..rpm were 9000 with 72.5 gram area dalton. I sent my muffler to td and did there stock mod 3inch..bang the limter instantly..running 76 grams now.
Also what are the horsepower target for ms17
max rolph
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sooo between you and i for the cost.... order the front and rear boots for throttle body and the 9 clamps, grind the six clamp spacers dwn .100 shorter and then smear very lightly the boots with a really good urethane and put on lightly clamped... then tighten after 2-3hrs, this allows urethane to cure a bit. also the clamps on your charge tube.... the vibrant ones are junk... i have the ones that iuse a bolt and tighten better. once you do this you will have no leaks whatso ever.. the reason for new clamps and boots is they distort over time and they are hard to seal after theve been distorted.
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Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
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Stock primary, 280hpIs this with the stock primary or the apex
Also what are the horsepower target for ms17
I understand....all my clamps were loose. Once I cranked the plenum clamps up, I was able to hold more better pressure. Using boost tester. You can see where the gauge would rapidly come down to 16.5psi from 20psi. Then really start to slow down. Now it's holding 18.5psi fairly well.sooo between you and i for the cost.... order the front and rear boots for throttle body and the 9 clamps, grind the six clamp spacers dwn .100 shorter and then smear very lightly the boots with a really good urethane and put on lightly clamped... then tighten after 2-3hrs, this allows urethane to cure a bit. also the clamps on your charge tube.... the vibrant ones are junk... i have the ones that iuse a bolt and tighten better. once you do this you will have no leaks whatso ever.. the reason for new clamps and boots is they distort over time and they are hard to seal after theve been distorted.
So, I'm digging deeper. Clamps at throttle bodies to elbows were loose.
I've already ground down spacers. But understand the need to seal things up.
Do you have a source for those clamps. Just so I get the right ones.
Doc Harley
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Also found this. Not sure if it would cause any other boost leak issues?????
Doc Harley
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So initially I rigged up my Boost tester and cranked it up to 20 psi. boost would slide right past to 16.5 and and speed at which the boost gauge was dropping would start to slow down.
Then after tightening the three plenum clamps boost started to hold at 18.5 PSI, better than before.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
Then after tightening the three plenum clamps boost started to hold at 18.5 PSI, better than before.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
Last edited:
Fords4life
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No this is a feed to turbo, draw side.Also found this. Not sure if it would cause any other boost leak issues?????
View attachment 171172
SumpBuster
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Keep at it, jt. Blow every sled away, with no mercy. Im "riding" vicariously through you!So initially I rigged up my Boost tester and cranked it up to 20 psi. boost would slide right past to 16.5 and and speed at which the boost gauge was dropping would start to slow down.
Then after tightening the three plenum clamps boost started to hold at 18.5 PSI, better than before.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
View attachment 171173View attachment 171174
max rolph
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this doesn effect boost except for recycled boost from turbo smart valve... might have a biyt of lag thats all. but youl fins that the boots get deformed and it hard to redo clams as they tend to slid back int orig position. cheaper and beter to get new ones, you should be able to go up to 25lbs no leaksAlso found this. Not sure if it would cause any other boost leak issues?????
View attachment 171172
max rolph
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Fleecer
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I agree with Mike 100% here......one of my peeves is a lying/cheating coward! If you have to cheat to win, then sell your sled and take up basket weaving.Screw that, let them take off whenever they want then drive around them. No class in cheating like that. If you can't win handily then its not worth having the win, guess that just the way I roll....
This is what I do with cowards.....give them the good lane, give them a headstart, then burn them.
Doc Harley
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I called dealer today they said it was a month out. So I hit it with some flex tape. Sorry bud lolNo this is a feed to turbo, draw side.
I'll make sure to include pics. To be honest, Sumpbuster....it's hard to feel good about yourself when bringing the lambs to slaughter.Keep at it, jt. Blow every sled away, with no mercy. Im "riding" vicariously through you!
I'm going to do this right, as you say. One & done. Thank you for your advice.i got mine off amazon,304 stainless T bolt clamps.... but get the ones that have 2 drums and a bolt 60-63mm i think
After tweaking my sled....running anything other than a modded 998t is cowardly. It's sad, to be honest.I agree with Mike 100% here......one of my peeves is a lying/cheating coward! If you have to cheat to win, then sell your sled and take up basket weaving.
This is what I do with cowards.....give them the good lane, give them a headstart, then burn them.
Much more fun, stock.....cuz than I never knew what was going to happen. It was very holeshot dependant.
Last edited:
max rolph
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MroMax 2Pcs Inner Dia 2.36"-2.48" T-Bolt Hose Clamp 60mm-63mm Range 304 Stainless Steel Heavy Duty Adjustable M6x60mm T-Bolt Pipe Tube Hose Clamps for Fuel Pump Filter Hose Plumbing Silver Tone
Amazon-
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