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Max17 First lake run....painful.


Conditions have a sh!t ton to do with speeds. Are you at Bent's? I'm sure the lake has a bunch of snow on it from last week and it's been fairly warm. I'm assuming some of these big speeds being posted are from ice or packed roads(i.e. optimum conditions). If you're running on a snow covered lake, my findings are that you will probably never get to overdrive. Just for sh!ts & giggles, go back and tighten all your boost hose clamps and don't forget the Turbosmart clamps.
 
Check your throttle cable as well to make sure you’re getting full throttle. Once these sleds have some miles, the throttle cables stretch. One year my sled was showing erratic RPMs and 1 psi low on boost on data logs, so I looked at throttle position and was only getting 88-91%. The throttle lever should not touch the bars at full throttle when freeplay is adjusted properly.
 
jtmetal said:
That about all I can do for today's exercise.
Click to expand...

jtmetal said:
That about all I can do for today's exercise.
Click to expand...

Not sure if this will help since I am on a 129" sled but for what its worth:

TD Max 17
BOV upgrade
3 bar sensor
CAI
Ultimax Belt
Super quiet muffler
Thunder products primary spring with glide washers
Thunder products secondary spring
Dalton weights 74g
Secondary clutch machined to bring into spec and very clean with fresh rollers
8800 - 9200 rpm depending on conditions.
Last long pull 124mph@10 degree F, with some left. how much? don't know but still pulling hard when i lifted.
 
Wrapped Dalton Blk/Org to 6/1 seems to be hot. Still luke warm primary & belt.i see no signs of belt slip in sec.
Mph 116 @ 8900rpm
Marked primary, left behind about 1/4" of marker. Any thoughts?


IMG_20230125_144749424_copy_2048x1536.jpg
 
DooZ said:
Conditions have a sh!t ton to do with speeds. Are you at Bent's? I'm sure the lake has a bunch of snow on it from last week and it's been fairly warm. I'm assuming some of these big speeds being posted are from ice or packed roads(i.e. optimum conditions). If you're running on a snow covered lake, my findings are that you will probably never get to overdrive. Just for sh!ts & giggles, go back and tighten all your boost hose clamps and don't forget the Turbosmart clamps.
Click to expand...
I'm close to Bent's. Lando. Temps are 30ish, snow is loose. Lake is a little rough.
 
I think your speeds are right in line with your tune and gearing considering conditions.
Anything over 110mph GPS is freaking fast sled despite peoples claims. To get 116 you are already into overdive which is less efficient and robs hp as belt speed increases...1:1 is the most efficient.
I would bet if you could get your sled on a hard packed road or icy surface you would be running in the 120s.
It takes more and more hp per mile per hour over 100mph as the speed increases
On the GPS my Yamacharged Attak only runs about 106 or so on snow packed trails but will run 118 mph on a hard packed road...darn sled will just not hit 120mph!:confused:
Of course my SW is a different story.:)
 
jtmetal said:
Wrapped Dalton Blk/Org to 6/1 seems to be hot. Still luke warm primary & belt.i see no signs of belt slip in sec.
Mph 116 @ 8900rpm
Marked primary, left behind about 1/4" of marker. Any thoughts?


View attachment 171068
Click to expand...
Your belt appears to be shifting out into overdrive on primary and Luke warm is good. If your secondary is hot your belt is slipping and that slipping ( friction) is whats creating that heat.
 
take your sec off, and take appart like you have, put back together with no spring, spread sheaves, turn belt inside out and push down in between sheaves and see how far you can push in... mark your sheave on top of belt while you push into sec. now put spring in clutch and compress it as far open as it will go.... do the same with the belt and see if its going in to the centre of hub or to the line you marked... if not then you have coil bind... if it does then sec is good...your sheaves dont look to be slipping... next,,,, with belt off ... compress primary and see if it closes sheaves right together with no coil bind... and test with belt to see how far it would travel up sheave once clutch faces are closed together if the belt looks like it would go further up sheave than what you mark shows then. to me it looks like your not getting full shift... which could be conditions for the power your at or clutchs are not allowing full shift
 
max rolph said:
take your sec off, and take appart like you have, put back together with no spring, spread sheaves, turn belt inside out and push down in between sheaves and see how far you can push in... mark your sheave on top of belt while you push into sec. now put spring in clutch and compress it as far open as it will go.... do the same with the belt and see if its going in to the centre of hub or to the line you marked... if not then you have coil bind... if it does then sec is good...your sheaves dont look to be slipping... next,,,, with belt off ... compress primary and see if it closes sheaves right together with no coil bind... and test with belt to see how far it would travel up sheave once clutch faces are closed together if the belt looks like it would go further up sheave than what you mark shows then. to me it looks like your not getting full shift... which could be conditions for the power your at or clutchs are not allowing full shift
Click to expand...
I'm working on this this morning.
Thanks, Max
 
With the conditions you're testing on, the speeds you're running seem to be good. Rpms are good, try to get some of the heat out of the secondary, but I wouldn't change much. If you stick around this weekend you're going to get some really good air (cold/dry & she'll wake up a little more).
 
max rolph said:
take your sec off, and take appart like you have, put back together with no spring, spread sheaves, turn belt inside out and push down in between sheaves and see how far you can push in... mark your sheave on top of belt while you push into sec. now put spring in clutch and compress it as far open as it will go.... do the same with the belt and see if its going in to the centre of hub or to the line you marked... if not then you have coil bind... if it does then sec is good...your sheaves dont look to be slipping... next,,,, with belt off ... compress primary and see if it closes sheaves right together with no coil bind... and test with belt to see how far it would travel up sheave once clutch faces are closed together if the belt looks like it would go further up sheave than what you mark shows then. to me it looks like your not getting full shift... which could be conditions for the power your at or clutchs are not allowing full shift
Click to expand...



8JP and XS825 is not going to coil bind in the stock secondary period.

The pic shown is normal for Yamaha primaries. Putting a marker line on the clutches does not mean the belt is going there under power, it may be an inch down and when you let off the belt goes to the top. Never understood why people mark their clutches to see if the belt goes to the top. Its absolutely worthless to put a line on the primary and think the bets is traveling that far under power, the second you left off it then goes to the top.
 
Today is about 19°
Made two hard pulls to 100mph
Primary 150°
Belt 140°
Secondary 100°
Note: initial hit of the throttle and boost came up to 18psi but only held on momentarily. After a second or two boost dropped to 16.8
This is a little clearer then yesterday's info .
Lake has definitely become more challenging to hold a line.
 
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