• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Max17 First lake run....painful.

doesnt make sense you can only run low 70's in grams of weight, CVT clutchs are your DYNO.... if you make any HP/Torque gains, you will spin rpm higher with the previous clutching and need to control by adding weight or shift speed. on two strokes ive always preached... change one thing at a time and test, if your rpm goes up keeping all else same.... your making more HP. im sure same goes for 4 strokes. this is why a DRAGY wrks withh back to back changes.
 

This is why I like to have my sleds dynoed to make sure sled is making power the tuners claim. When motor is right, then you know it’s all about your clutching and gearing!!!! My $.02……
I think I'm very close to things. If I am correct I am leaking 1.5 lb of boost somewhere. I'll get it
What muffler are you running? Sled came with a ggb mountain can on it(wanted to tear my head off from the drone). I put ms17 and all parts in..rpm were 9000 with 72.5 gram area dalton. I sent my muffler to td and did there stock mod 3inch..bang the limter instantly..running 76 grams now.
I'm running a home brew 2.5" and should be compatible with TD 's 3" stock mod muffler.
Just over 40mph the wind noise, sled noise, etc. Drowns out the drone. Thou, maybe it's not flowing enough?!?! An issue that I will look at soon.
Screenshot_20230128-085928_copy_360x267.png
 
doesnt make sense you can only run low 70's in grams of weight, CVT clutchs are your DYNO.... if you make any HP/Torque gains, you will spin rpm higher with the previous clutching and need to control by adding weight or shift speed. on two strokes ive always preached... change one thing at a time and test, if your rpm goes up keeping all else same.... your making more HP. im sure same goes for 4 strokes. this is why a DRAGY wrks withh back to back changes.
I'm with you max. My mind started to scatter and I wanted to fix everything all at once. Now I'm more relaxed and I think I have a 1.5 lb boost leak.
I boost up to 18.2 lb for about a second and the rest of the run it drops down in the 16s.
I'm sure that's got to be causing my RPMs and weight to go from one thing to another.
I sure hope that makes sense.
 
What muffler are you running? Sled came with a ggb mountain can on it(wanted to tear my head off from the drone). I put ms17 and all parts in..rpm were 9000 with 72.5 gram area dalton. I sent my muffler to td and did there stock mod 3inch..bang the limter instantly..running 76 grams now.
Is this with the stock primary or the apex
Also what are the horsepower target for ms17
 
sooo between you and i for the cost.... order the front and rear boots for throttle body and the 9 clamps, grind the six clamp spacers dwn .100 shorter and then smear very lightly the boots with a really good urethane and put on lightly clamped... then tighten after 2-3hrs, this allows urethane to cure a bit. also the clamps on your charge tube.... the vibrant ones are junk... i have the ones that iuse a bolt and tighten better. once you do this you will have no leaks whatso ever.. the reason for new clamps and boots is they distort over time and they are hard to seal after theve been distorted.
 

Attachments

  • STAIN.jpg
    STAIN.jpg
    1.8 KB · Views: 63
Is this with the stock primary or the apex
Also what are the horsepower target for ms17
Stock primary, 280hp
sooo between you and i for the cost.... order the front and rear boots for throttle body and the 9 clamps, grind the six clamp spacers dwn .100 shorter and then smear very lightly the boots with a really good urethane and put on lightly clamped... then tighten after 2-3hrs, this allows urethane to cure a bit. also the clamps on your charge tube.... the vibrant ones are junk... i have the ones that iuse a bolt and tighten better. once you do this you will have no leaks whatso ever.. the reason for new clamps and boots is they distort over time and they are hard to seal after theve been distorted.
I understand....all my clamps were loose. Once I cranked the plenum clamps up, I was able to hold more better pressure. Using boost tester. You can see where the gauge would rapidly come down to 16.5psi from 20psi. Then really start to slow down. Now it's holding 18.5psi fairly well.
So, I'm digging deeper. Clamps at throttle bodies to elbows were loose.
I've already ground down spacers. But understand the need to seal things up.
Do you have a source for those clamps. Just so I get the right ones.
 
So initially I rigged up my Boost tester and cranked it up to 20 psi. boost would slide right past to 16.5 and and speed at which the boost gauge was dropping would start to slow down.
Then after tightening the three plenum clamps boost started to hold at 18.5 PSI, better than before.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
IMG_20230128_091801069_copy_1536x2048_copy_768x1024.jpg
IMG_20230128_094054975_copy_2048x1536.jpg
 
Last edited:
So initially I rigged up my Boost tester and cranked it up to 20 psi. boost would slide right past to 16.5 and and speed at which the boost gauge was dropping would start to slow down.
Then after tightening the three plenum clamps boost started to hold at 18.5 PSI, better than before.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
View attachment 171173View attachment 171174
Keep at it, jt. Blow every sled away, with no mercy. Im "riding" vicariously through you!
 
Also found this. Not sure if it would cause any other boost leak issues?????
View attachment 171172
this doesn effect boost except for recycled boost from turbo smart valve... might have a biyt of lag thats all. but youl fins that the boots get deformed and it hard to redo clams as they tend to slid back int orig position. cheaper and beter to get new ones, you should be able to go up to 25lbs no leaks
 
i got mine off amazon,304 stainless T bolt clamps.... but get the ones that have 2 drums and a bolt 60-63mm i think
 

Attachments

  • hose_clamp_stainless_steel_t_bolt_each_1__76816.jpg
    hose_clamp_stainless_steel_t_bolt_each_1__76816.jpg
    56.9 KB · Views: 59
Screw that, let them take off whenever they want then drive around them. No class in cheating like that. If you can't win handily then its not worth having the win, guess that just the way I roll....
I agree with Mike 100% here......one of my peeves is a lying/cheating coward! If you have to cheat to win, then sell your sled and take up basket weaving.

This is what I do with cowards.....give them the good lane, give them a headstart, then burn them.
 
No this is a feed to turbo, draw side.
I called dealer today they said it was a month out. So I hit it with some flex tape. Sorry bud lol
Keep at it, jt. Blow every sled away, with no mercy. Im "riding" vicariously through you!
I'll make sure to include pics. To be honest, Sumpbuster....it's hard to feel good about yourself when bringing the lambs to slaughter.
i got mine off amazon,304 stainless T bolt clamps.... but get the ones that have 2 drums and a bolt 60-63mm i think
I'm going to do this right, as you say. One & done. Thank you for your advice.
I agree with Mike 100% here......one of my peeves is a lying/cheating coward! If you have to cheat to win, then sell your sled and take up basket weaving.

This is what I do with cowards.....give them the good lane, give them a headstart, then burn them.
After tweaking my sled....running anything other than a modded 998t is cowardly. It's sad, to be honest.
Much more fun, stock.....cuz than I never knew what was going to happen. It was very holeshot dependant.
 
Last edited:

MroMax 2Pcs Inner Dia 2.36"-2.48" T-Bolt Hose Clamp 60mm-63mm Range 304 Stainless Steel Heavy Duty Adjustable M6x60mm T-Bolt Pipe Tube Hose Clamps for Fuel Pump Filter Hose Plumbing Silver Tone​

Amazon
 


Back
Top