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Max17 First lake run....painful.

MroMax 2Pcs Inner Dia 2.36"-2.48" T-Bolt Hose Clamp 60mm-63mm Range 304 Stainless Steel Heavy Duty Adjustable M6x60mm T-Bolt Pipe Tube Hose Clamps for Fuel Pump Filter Hose Plumbing Silver Tone​

Amazon
Do these replace every single clamp with the exception of the throttle body clamps? 7pcs in total?
 
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The boost leak could be why your knock light came on immediately .https://ty4stroke.com/threads/hurricane-knock-light-bulletin.160037/
Good read & very possible. Hopefully the information is correct and I can ride around on power trail without having to add octane booster
I did modify my clamp barrels, but all my other clamps were loose.
To be honest i typically use a screwdriver to tighten things up but it does not apply near the force of a 1/4" ratchet.
So I've gone through everything but the throttle body clamps at cylinder head.
Seems to be holding very well for now. Going to make some changes suggested by Max Rolph, in the near future.
Clamps are like two months out.

Thank you!
 
Good read & very possible. Hopefully the information is correct and I can ride around on power trail without having to add octane booster
I did modify my clamp barrels, but all my other clamps were loose.
To be honest i typically use a screwdriver to tighten things up but it does not apply near the force of a 1/4" ratchet.
So I've gone through everything but the throttle body clamps at cylinder head.
Seems to be holding very well for now. Going to make some changes suggested by Max Rolph, in the near future.
Clamps are like two months out.

Thank you!


You said you did the throttle body clamps JT. You did all 6 of them right? There is two per cylinder that need the spacers ground down in half, so 6 total. Here you said you didn't do the cylinder head ones.... You gotta do them too and I assumed you did that when you were into it.
 
You said you did the throttle body clamps JT. You did all 6 of them right? There is two per cylinder that need the spacers ground down in half, so 6 total. Here you said you didn't do the cylinder head ones.... You gotta do them too and I assumed you did that when you were into it.
The comment was in regards to all clamps retorqued aft throttle bodies.
Yes, I did the six barrels a few weeks ago.
 
The clamps for throttle body with spacers have to get from dealer or partzilla, the stainless ones from amazon are for charge tubes, because these boots after a while get distorted, even thou you clamped tighter they might not be sealing as they would with brand new ones, i know cuz from factory my clamps were slightly cock eyed, and even when i tried to tighten in right possition ... they slipped back to original orientation. . its 4 hour job but well worth it when you get new boots and clamps... i original found my leak with soap and water while holding presure at 20psi, now ive tested to 25 and no bubbles
 
The clamps for throttle body with spacers have to get from dealer or partzilla, the stainless ones from amazon are for charge tubes, because these boots after a while get distorted, even thou you clamped tighter they might not be sealing as they would with brand new ones, i know cuz from factory my clamps were slightly cock eyed, and even when i tried to tighten in right possition ... they slipped back to original orientation. . its 4 hour job but well worth it when you get new boots and clamps... i original found my leak with soap and water while holding presure at 20psi, now ive tested to 25 and no bubbles
Understand completely, thank you for explaining.
I'll need to include charge tubes as I'm still on the stockers.
And will resolve this with your methods.
Thanks, Max
 
In summarizing of my first runs, I guess it wasn't that bad. 117mph!!!
32° wet heavy snow
Boost leak
And oh, did i forget to mention my suspension set up?
Limiter straps all the way out & blocks/rod removed.
Sled carried the front end basically across the lake. Lol....I didn't have that problem at stock power level.
Probably scrubbed 3-5mph by itself....

Thanks for all your help. I'll get this next time ....
 
ive pulled my limiters up 1 hole from factory and it stil lifts the ski's, but a nice way to tell... is on a flat floor... with your front end set where you like.... lift rear of sled of ground and then set your camera up on floor... and as you set sled back down, you want the WHOLE track to touch at same time... not the front then back...this will give you best on ground traction.
 
ive pulled my limiters up 1 hole from factory and it stil lifts the ski's, but a nice way to tell... is on a flat floor... with your front end set where you like.... lift rear of sled of ground and then set your camera up on floor... and as you set sled back down, you want the WHOLE track to touch at same time... not the front then back...this will give you best on ground traction.
I'll give that a peek this week.

Does anyone run the transfer rod with bigger tunes (270+) and no blocks?
I thought I remember seeing some Carnage where the tabs got all bent over from hitting the transfer rod. The tabs are barely hitting the rod, 3/16" +/-
IMG_20230130_103338676_copy_2048x1536.jpg
 
I have not run blocks for thousands of miles.. I used to put heater hose over the rod on each end .. That would last for about 1000 miles.. Now I just run without anything including blocks. TD MS 17 for 2500 miles 2022
 
I have not run blocks for thousands of miles.. I used to put heater hose over the rod on each end .. That would last for about 1000 miles.. Now I just run without anything including blocks. TD MS 17 for 2500 miles 2022
So in order to get my front end from carrying so high and long I can skip the blocks and go right to the straps and take preload from front skid spring settings?
This is for drag racing on hard pack conditions.
 
So in order to get my front end from carrying so high and long I can skip the blocks and go right to the straps and take preload from front skid spring settings?
This is for drag racing on hard pack conditions.
Don't push the fun button so hard and fast! LOL.. Sometimes you just got to pooch it to the bar. I think a little less aggressive pull works better IMO.. Try easing it to SLIGHTLY.. Otherwise if your trying to keep the skis lower to the ground I would say you want the blocks in..
 
I'll give that a peek this week.

Does anyone run the transfer rod with bigger tunes (270+) and no blocks?
I thought I remember seeing some Carnage where the tabs got all bent over from hitting the transfer rod. The tabs are barely hitting the rod, 3/16" +/-
View attachment 171215
I took mine out to try it, but didn't like the negative effect on handling. I want to be able to turn while trail riding aggressively and keeping the power on.
 


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