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MBRP trail can dyno


Standard correction factor will give the highest numbers on a dynojet Dyno. Is another thing that does not matter if that is what is used for comparison. Almost every dynochart I see on internet is standard correction.
 
What's the difference between the two MBRP silencers....333T805 & 3331008? According to the dyno chart, the 3331008 has got a few more ponies than the 333T805.
 
stingray719 said:
TRACK dynos are notoriously inaccurate because you are going through the clutch and belt, and we ALL know Yamaha Viper clutch issues(studroes you run a kit so I see why your dyno numbers look like factory claimed). You can fudge track dyno numbers by changing clutch setup, but the MBRP can is for real. I waited until NOS PRO proved it worked before I bought one as I do not trust track dyno numbers. Just for the record though I totally agree with MBRP dyno claims.
Click to expand...

Actually, a track dyno is no more inaccurate than any other type of dyno. It is all in the operator of the dyno. A track dyno can be fooled by a big cam and very light secondary spring (which will increase the acceleration rate) and cause the sled to fall on it's face out in the field (really no reason to try to fool anyone with a track dyno, as you will know it won't work as soon as you try to accelerate in the real world).

A engine dyno is the same way. An operator can adjust the acceleration rate of an engine dyno and make the dyno read inaccurately as well.
 
Also a reason you may see higher RPM being ideal out in the real world compared to the engine dyno (or track dyno for that matter) may be due to some sort of relation between exhaust pipe temp and the expansion rate or speed of the exhaust as well (I have no idea on this, just a thought).
 
larrypolaris said:
They didn't tell me specific dyno numbers. Just said that the Vipers they ran on their dyno were less HP then the Nytro's.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Is it possible some vipers came with slightly different programming? As I said before, mine made 136.7. On the same dyno a few years ago a stock nytro made 134ish..seen a different viper and 7000 dynoed on the same one and made right around 134..so on that dyno they're fairly consistent..but I haven't seen yet where a nytro has made more power, only from what is spoken
 
GTPower said:
What's the difference between the two MBRP silencers....333T805 & 3331008? According to the dyno chart, the 3331008 has got a few more ponies than the 333T805.
Click to expand...

The T is the trail can. It's quieter than the other one and makes a bit less power.
 
cannondale27 said:
Standard correction factor will give the highest numbers on a dynojet Dyno. Is another thing that does not matter if that is what is used for comparison. Almost every dynochart I see on internet is standard correction.
Click to expand...


To elaborate:

Correction factors adjust the data to reflect changes in atmospheric conditions. They "correct" to a temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity. There are 2 commonly used standards. SAE and STP. Of the two, STP is more aggressive.

Put into simple perspective, say you were running a test on a 90°f day and it was humid beyond belief. The performance will be off the pace for sure. The correction factor is supposed to bring these numbers back to what they theoretically would be if the atmospheric conditions were at the standard.

Now here is where it can get a bit sticky. Many dynos have their own weather station to gather conditional data. Some better than others. Some built and calibrated in one part of the country, shipped and never recalibrated. It is very important to check calibration periodically which few shops ever do. The fancy sophisticated digital readouts need accurate data. To the best of my recollection my comments and terminology are accurate but feel free to check me if I get the local vs sea level pressure thing flipped. This accurate data is provided by a Mercurial barometer to obtain sea level pressure then adjusted using elevation to get local station pressure. You don't want to just look to the weather man Then we get out a sling psychrometer and measure dry bulb and wet bulb to get humidity. These measurements are compared to the weather station and calibrated if necessary.


From there we can get into the details of the dyno lab. Is it an open room, or is it closed? In some cases you can have what is termed as a turbocharged dyno room. This is a but of a stretch, but essentially what you have is a pressurized room that uses a larger intake blower than the exhaust blower pushing barometric conditions beyond the standard. I don't think I have ever seen a dyno go to a negative correction factor in the software, but I may be wrong.


Big picture: Same machine, same dyno, same day, same calibration. Now you do your tests with various mods focusing not on the numbers themselves (assuming they are ballpark for a healthy machine), but the curve and the differences between runs.

In theory, you should be able to take a dyno and a machine together, calibrate at sea level and test, then take to mile high elevation, recalibrate, and the numbers should be nearly the same. More stickiness: jetting and modern electronic controls will change maps based on elevation and can eliminate some of the power loss at elevation.
 
TD Max said:
To elaborate:

Correction factors adjust the data to reflect changes in atmospheric conditions. They "correct" to a temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity. There are 2 commonly used standards. SAE and STP. Of the two, STP is more aggressive.

Put into simple perspective, say you were running a test on a 90°f day and it was humid beyond belief. The performance will be off the pace for sure. The correction factor is supposed to bring these numbers back to what they theoretically would be if the atmospheric conditions were at the standard.

Now here is where it can get a bit sticky. Many dynos have their own weather station to gather conditional data. Some better than others. Some built and calibrated in one part of the country, shipped and never recalibrated. It is very important to check calibration periodically which few shops ever do. The fancy sophisticated digital readouts need accurate data. To the best of my recollection my comments and terminology are accurate but feel free to check me if I get the local vs sea level pressure thing flipped. This accurate data is provided by a Mercurial barometer to obtain sea level pressure then adjusted using elevation to get local station pressure. You don't want to just look to the weather man Then we get out a sling psychrometer and measure dry bulb and wet bulb to get humidity. These measurements are compared to the weather station and calibrated if necessary.


From there we can get into the details of the dyno lab. Is it an open room, or is it closed? In some cases you can have what is termed as a turbocharged dyno room. This is a but of a stretch, but essentially what you have is a pressurized room that uses a larger intake blower than the exhaust blower pushing barometric conditions beyond the standard. I don't think I have ever seen a dyno go to a negative correction factor in the software, but I may be wrong.


Big picture: Same machine, same dyno, same day, same calibration. Now you do your tests with various mods focusing not on the numbers themselves (assuming they are ballpark for a healthy machine), but the curve and the differences between runs.

In theory, you should be able to take a dyno and a machine together, calibrate at sea level and test, then take to mile high elevation, recalibrate, and the numbers should be nearly the same. More stickiness: jetting and modern electronic controls will change maps based on elevation and can eliminate some of the power loss at elevation.
Click to expand...


And we are back full circle to the fact that a dyno gives you a good reference but can be innacurate in the real world riding. Case in point, dyno a vehicle...any vehicle....and then add autotune and see if your dyno tune changes. Or set your clutch in your Viper to 8500 as track dyno indicate. :)

My first track dyno run decades ago kinda opened my eyes. I built a race engine for Hunter Brothers Racing Team. We all rode it and were VERY pleased with it, so off to the dyno we go. For whatever reason the dyno run showed it little better than stock and of course we all rode it and raced it against test sleds and knew it was fast. And yes it could have been operator error, maybe even the odd clutch setup I made but dyno world did not mirror real life.

But yeah I think we are all saying the same thing, you need a good reference point but don't believe dyno is the be all in the real world.
 
Last edited:
As Cannondale mentioned....my sled makes more power above 9,000 than it does at 8,800. I tried clutching this thing according to dyno numbers and it lost time and performance.

With that said.....I was corrected by many when I told people the Viper was making 130-135 hpr. It only makes 127-129 AND only 52 ft. lbs. of torque.
 
TD Max said:
To elaborate:

Correction factors adjust the data to reflect changes in atmospheric conditions. They "correct" to a temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity. There are 2 commonly used standards. SAE and STP. Of the two, STP is more aggressive.

Put into simple perspective, say you were running a test on a 90°f day and it was humid beyond belief. The performance will be off the pace for sure. The correction factor is supposed to bring these numbers back to what they theoretically would be if the atmospheric conditions were at the standard.

Now here is where it can get a bit sticky. Many dynos have their own weather station to gather conditional data. Some better than others. Some built and calibrated in one part of the country, shipped and never recalibrated. It is very important to check calibration periodically which few shops ever do. The fancy sophisticated digital readouts need accurate data. To the best of my recollection my comments and terminology are accurate but feel free to check me if I get the local vs sea level pressure thing flipped. This accurate data is provided by a Mercurial barometer to obtain sea level pressure then adjusted using elevation to get local station pressure. You don't want to just look to the weather man Then we get out a sling psychrometer and measure dry bulb and wet bulb to get humidity. These measurements are compared to the weather station and calibrated if necessary.


From there we can get into the details of the dyno lab. Is it an open room, or is it closed? In some cases you can have what is termed as a turbocharged dyno room. This is a but of a stretch, but essentially what you have is a pressurized room that uses a larger intake blower than the exhaust blower pushing barometric conditions beyond the standard. I don't think I have ever seen a dyno go to a negative correction factor in the software, but I may be wrong.


Big picture: Same machine, same dyno, same day, same calibration. Now you do your tests with various mods focusing not on the numbers themselves (assuming they are ballpark for a healthy machine), but the curve and the differences between runs.

In theory, you should be able to take a dyno and a machine together, calibrate at sea level and test, then take to mile high elevation, recalibrate, and the numbers should be nearly the same. More stickiness: jetting and modern electronic controls will change maps based on elevation and can eliminate some of the power loss at elevation.
Click to expand...

That is why I started the Asphalt Results thread so I could post results.....same driver, same machine, same track....etc. Real world results with timeslips. Wish there was a portable dyno to attach to the Viper between runs.
 
No need to play the hp game, and I'm not looking to start that debate, I can say tho that the first dyno run of a box stock viper and a box stock 7000 both with zero miles was 127hp..maybe that's the number people are referring to, after several runs on the dyno and getting the engine loosened but they both made 134. In another point of view, (I'm simply using this example because I know the number and the dyno sheet is posted online) D&D barker can alone made 142hp..is it safe to that it gained 15hp from stock? Absolutely not, can't go by the first number that came off the dyno, in five dyno runs the engine freed up 7 more hp simply by getting broke in. In the case of that exhaust, it had a 10hp increase at some area of the rpm range and a 7-8hp increase at peak hp where it really matters
 
More important than the numbers is the change and where it occurs. A dyno has the ability to plot out TQ versus RPM showing you the area under the curve. Now I know a CVT doesn't really run there, but it's still meaningful data.

I find it interesting how little HP and TQ the Viper really has. It definitely punches above it's weight compared to other sleds.
 
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