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Mono damping and spring preload adjustments

I'm actually giving serious thought to just upgrading to a Fox Mega Float in the rear...would allow much easier suspension adjustments when/if I let others use the sled too, which does happen from time to time....hmmm.

Would discourage the Mega Float idea, just my opinion, but not the shock you want for plush trail riding.

For removing the shock in the skid, there are several options but basically you have to get the pre-load off the suspension so the bolts in the shock eyes can be removed easily. Some use ratchet straps, some loosen off limiter strap etc, several ways to skin a cat here.
My method of choice is with the sled on the stand, tie the tunnel down to the stand with 2 ratchet straps, I hook into the drop brackets on the tunnel and then the frame of the stand, straps don't need to be pulled down much, just to keep the sled from tipping up on the stand for the next step.
Then I use a floor jack under the track at the back of skid just rearward of the transfer rod mount. Jack up the suspension slightly ( this would be why you need the tunnel tied down) this removes the pre-load sufficient to easily remove one of the bolts in the transfer rod mounts. Drop the jack and this allows the suspension to basically hang free, and from there, you should be able to remove bolts on both ends of the shock and remove it from the skid.
Reverse order gets the bolt back into the transfer rod, then you are good to go.
To compress the spring, you now have easier access and maybe your strut spring compressor tools will work easier. Otherwise, take it to a shop that has a shock spring compressor, literally it takes minutes to move the clip on the shock body once clip is exposed.
I McGyver'd a rig that works off the shock eye mount and pushes the spring collar down to expose the clip, will upload a pic if I can find one.
In reality, the clip, once set, should not need to be moved again.
Cheers,
 

I would advise against the Air shock also !! So if you blow a seal your driving on a collapsed suspension. + they are very picky with the air and the valves freeze shut then the pump won't work then you get up and the shock looses air because of the cold . To much work ! Yes you can pull the shock only in about 10 mins. Follow Apexallday advice . I just did mine last week . Make sure you pull the back bolt from the transfer rod. leave front in. Then undo the limiter strap also. Easy. When putting the shock back in do the back bolt first because it is the hardest one then the front will fall right in . I use blue loctite on the bolts .
 
Would discourage the Mega Float idea, just my opinion, but not the shock you want for plush trail riding.

For removing the shock in the skid, there are several options but basically you have to get the pre-load off the suspension so the bolts in the shock eyes can be removed easily. Some use ratchet straps, some loosen off limiter strap etc, several ways to skin a cat here.
My method of choice is with the sled on the stand, tie the tunnel down to the stand with 2 ratchet straps, I hook into the drop brackets on the tunnel and then the frame of the stand, straps don't need to be pulled down much, just to keep the sled from tipping up on the stand for the next step.
Then I use a floor jack under the track at the back of skid just rearward of the transfer rod mount. Jack up the suspension slightly ( this would be why you need the tunnel tied down) this removes the pre-load sufficient to easily remove one of the bolts in the transfer rod mounts. Drop the jack and this allows the suspension to basically hang free, and from there, you should be able to remove bolts on both ends of the shock and remove it from the skid.
Reverse order gets the bolt back into the transfer rod, then you are good to go.
To compress the spring, you now have easier access and maybe your strut spring compressor tools will work easier. Otherwise, take it to a shop that has a shock spring compressor, literally it takes minutes to move the clip on the shock body once clip is exposed.
I McGyver'd a rig that works off the shock eye mount and pushes the spring collar down to expose the clip, will upload a pic if I can find one.
In reality, the clip, once set, should not need to be moved again.
Cheers,
Thanks. The trails here in NH can really turn to crap quick and be pretty bumpy. Lots of stutter bumps small and big. You still feel that way about the Fox float? I’ve heard good things and am not worried about the cost.

I have to digest your process for pulling the shock. I’m not getting all the steps right now as I read it quickly. Any pics would be great too.
 
My advice if your willing to buy a new shock ! Call Hygear Nice people ! look at there dual rate spring with the adjustable crossover and then have it revalved at the same time. I just had mine done after 8000 miles of pounding on it . They had to replace the shaft because it was marked up rebuild it and a new spring and just over 300$ once you drive a dual rate spring you won't think about a Air shock. And the resale on an air shock is nothing ! the Hygear setup would sell in 20 mins
 
Lift the back of sled off the ground. Next take back bolt off of the transfer rod. leave it lay on track. take floor jack to front of the track . Jack it up until you have slack in the front limiter strap. remove the lower 2 10mm bolts and remove the strap from the bar. Then remove the front nut and the back nut from the shock. Then you might have to jack under the front of the track so the bolt will slide out then jack the back of track just enough to pull the bolt out . Then build the spring compressor like the one I posted and everything will workd out ! My daughter says there is snow in the mountains in Idaho ! So winter is coming LOL ;)
 
Thank you. If it is that easy to get out, without pulling the skid, I will likely first at least try to adjust the spring and get the right level of sit in, and then ride it this winter a bit and see how it does. If it feels too hard, I'll either reconsider the fox float, or a new spring and revalve by Hygear. Now to get it out...
 
The Mega Float is not the shock for those type of trails imo, a properly set up Mono-shock is hard to beat, had a 08 Apex LTX that was great.

Jut think the steps through, you mention you have a sled stand, this is the best way to access the shock etc. The reason for strapping it down to the stand is because if you start jacking up the rear skid, the slid will tip up/over, and you don't need that chit happening. I have not needed to remove the limiter strap using the method I describe.
 
I do have a stand yes. Used it quite a lot with the work I've been doing.

This is what I'm not clear on in your description though - strapping the tunnel tot he stand. The stand is behind the sled. What am I missing? Even if the tunnel/sled was strapped to the stand, if I started jacking the skid, the stand would just lift with it, as it's not bolted down. I know I'm missing something obvious.
 
I do have a stand yes. Used it quite a lot with the work I've been doing.

This is what I'm not clear on in your description though - strapping the tunnel to the stand. The stand is behind the sled. What am I missing? Even if the tunnel/sled was strapped to the stand, if I started jacking the skid, the stand would just lift with it, as it's not bolted down. I know I'm missing something obvious.

Ok, the stand you have is not a full frame stand you enter from the front of the sled and lift, my bad. Yours is a lift with the bumper with a lever/strap type stand, so this changes the story for sure.

I would think you could accomplish the same thing, just have to overcome the upward force of the jack lifting up the suspension, maybe have a buddy sit or hold down the sled, it doesn't take much force to get the movement you need to take the tension off the transfer rod bolt in order to pull it out. Just need to hold the sled down long enough to get the bolt out, then drop the jack down, and your buddy can go mix whiskies. Hope this helps.
 
I have sled lift and prefer to lift only from the rear bumper to work on the suspension. Then you don't have to worry about the cross bars on the lift. I do keep the ski's on the dollies in the front . It allows you to move the front around and gets the front of the track higher off the ground.
 
Actually another legit question. So is it at the point that I have the transfer rod disconnected that the tension should be off the shock bolts for the most part?
 
Actually another legit question. So is it at the point that I have the transfer rod disconnected that the tension should be off the shock bolts for the most part?

That has been my experience, still may need to support the track/skid weight, but the geometry of the skid when 100% assembled creates pre-load on all the mounts due to the shock spring, taking one of those elements out of the equation (transfer rod bolt) releases the tension on the shock bolts. Dropping the limiter strap will do the same thing more or less, but it can be a PIA to work on.
Whiskey neat is acceptable practice too!
Cheers.
 
The shock will come out with just the transfer rod disconnected ! Putting it back in place is much easier with both disconnected ( transfer rod & limiter strap)
 


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