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more rear suspension.

srvfan

Expert
Joined
Nov 9, 2004
Messages
484
Ok I just can't get this to work for me i am 175lb. I put the anti bottom to soft and springs to soft. It didn't work. The sled pounds me in 4-8" ripple bumps. It feels like it doesn't move at all. That's confirmed by my riding buddies who see my but bouncing off the seat. It doesn't bottom except on huge hits (like 2feet deep) I moved it to medium on the triangular blocks and it felt firmer but more controlled. I want the suspension to use half it's travel on those bumps so it will disapear. How is this accomplished ? It seems the shock has no rebound controll and the springs are far too stiff. I was expecting a first class m-10 like ride. So far I think it sucks. We had my old XTC vmax along for the trip. While the Vector front end is much better it was clear to everyone who rode them that the old proaction vmax rear suspension was much plusher in the type of bumps we encounter . I have not softened the front arm shock , will that help? Or will moving the controll rods help?
I think my choices right now are as follows and I really don't care how much it costs.
1. some type of premium aftermarket shock and spring package , suggestions welcome.
2. Replace rear skid with monoshock skid if this is possable, I've heard it's better
3. Install an M-10 or some other good riding rear suspension. has anyone tried an M-10 in a Vector? If so did it screw the handling up? and what shocks give the best ride on an M-10?
4. get rid of this sled and get maybe a Polaris with m-10. That would be a shame as I love the sled other than the rear suspension.
This is sooooo frustrating I've had several different Yammis the last few years all promising a good suspension and none of them work as well as the old XTC Vmax's. :( :o|
 

Rear Suspension set-up

I wish I could give you a good set-up for your weight. I weigh 225 and everything set to medium gives me a nice ride. I have experience with the M-10 and in moderate bumps like you are talking about the Vector rides about 90% as good in my opinion. Sure someone who takes the time to tweak the last bit of perfect settings on a M-10 may get better results but to me this skid is not bad at all.
Now, the big difference to me is in the fast rough stuff, (fast rough stuff in my world is 45-55 mph through 6-10 inch moguls) , I get alot of kick but its very manageable. This can be completely cured by updating the rear shock to the Ohlins piggyback model. (I'm sitting in the Lazy-Boy and the part number for that shock is in the other room, sorry). It's in the Yamaha accessory catalog , or call Bruce at Pioneer Performance, 716-496-6000. He has been working magic on Yamaha suspensions for years. I know he stocks the shock. This will completely eliminate the kick.
As for the front shocks and the front skid shock, I have heard from a few people that have done the following with great results: Hang the front skis loose by supporting the front end, then loosen the front springs to the point they are loose in the shock then snug just enough to take off the looseness. Lower the front end and jack the back up, now do the same thing with the front skid shock, loosen it till the spring is completeloy free and then snug it up just a hair. Doing this , adding the Ohlins (using a light to moderate rebound setting) should get you going in the right direction. Last I looked the Ohlins was about $400. ;)! Good luck.
 
shocks

Bruce revalved my SXR and it was much better particuarly the front end after I added his springs as well.
 
Yeah the Yamaha "No Action" rear skid is pretty weak. I suggest Ohlin piggybacks also. They are pricey but you can't go wrong with the ohlins. (Around $800 for the rear 2 and $800 for the front 2. ) I knew yamaha was going to switch them all over to the Mono RA after riding my 05 vector. I just wish i would have waited a year to buy a new sled.
 
As mentioned above, set your rear suspension front shock spring to full soft and try it. Try those bumps at 60mph plus with that setting and the bumps disapear. Work with the rear suspension it works very well. As far as an M10, I question the cost and ride. From what I have seen and talked to sledders that have them, they all have told me that they would not do it again. To much adjusting and no wieght transfer. As stated above work with the suspension, it does work and it is one of the best out there. People give up way to easy and do not adjust suspensions and condem them when its the owner that does not spend the time to tune. Thats why they are adjustable to adjust to your riding style. Good luck. :4STroke: :o|
 
Stay away from the M-10. It rides great but you have to constantly tinker with it to make it work properly for the conditions. It will also slow your top speed noticeably and hurt fuel mileage plus it is overpriced.Been there done that and just about had to give it away.
 
I to had this problem. Set the front spring 1/2 way between factory setting &mim soft setting (manual) . Set side springs to soft and go from there. Worked for me!! LaLaLa
 
srv fan.Make sure your limiter straps are let all the way out and your front shock is as soft as it will go. I weigh 175 and my venture was too stiff untill I loosened front shock. There are so many adjustments and combinations of them.Like Oakhill said try everything and spend time to tune.Just do one adjustment at a time and note the difference.
 
I am also 175 and my Vector rides great in all conditions. I have the pre-loads set to medium and the stoppers in the hard. The front shock is soft in the pre-load. I also have a sled with an M-10 and I think the Vector is just as good.
 
I'm 170 lbs (without gear) and I have the anti bottoming stoppers at soft, the rear cams at medium, and transfer, and front track shock preload are in the stock positions. For most intents and purposes, my sled rides great.

If anything its a tad on the stiff side, but that works out well when riding aggressively.
 
Try that: First, remove the anti bottoming device. It kicks and remove suspension travel. Adjust the preload on the front shock to maximum according to Yamaha instructions in the owner manual, put the blocks on the medium position and tranfer rods at maximum. You will not be disapointed, trust me.

On a week long trip, with heavy saddle bags, it performed increadibly good on bad trails, with hard stutter bumps and moguls. In fact, it performed a lot, lot better than the the two 05 RX.
 
wow

Thanx for the help guys what's wierd is some are saying tighten the front track shock for a softer ride in small bumps while others say stiffen it. Ithink i'll try looser first. ;)! :rocks:
 
Yeah go with looser. Remove the anti bottoming stops. Set your control rods to MAXIMUM transfer as this will allow your 2 springs to act more independantly.
 


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