LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The bigger your gears are, the less force there is on the chain, resulting in lower friction and longer chain and gear life.
As for the tension on the secondary.... thats something to experiment with. You will DEFINITELY want more WEIGHT on the PRIMARY.
As for the tension on the secondary.... thats something to experiment with. You will DEFINITELY want more WEIGHT on the PRIMARY.
YAMMERHAULER
Extreme
Well as always, you guys pulled through with good info. I will find a set of 23/40 gears and try this set up. I hope I don't have to wait til February for snow this year. I will set the secondary spring at 6-2 instead of 6-1. I believe this tightens up the secondary. Again thanks for all the help.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I wouldn't tighten the secondary until finding that it is needed. Tightening the secondary will tend to drive RPMs UP, gearing down will ALSO tend to drive RPMs UP. Doing both will drive RPMs WAY UP. You want to compensate for the lower gearing by clutching for LOW RPMs - do NOT mess with the secondary to accomplish this.
The most sensible way to make performance adjustments is to make them ONE AT A TIME. If you adjust 15 things at the same time, it can be VERY difficult to figure out what effect each adjustment had.
What I suggest you do is this; Stick in your new, lower gearing, and LEAVE IT. Test it out and see how it works. I can confidently say that it'll head for ~11000 RPM when you make that change. It'll drink gas like a '47 Ford and your top end will suffer because you're running several hundred rpm beyond the point of peak power.
THEN, when you know what its trying to do, you start playing with the clutches. I *really* doubt that you'll want to tighten the secondary.
The thing about the secondary is this; when you're geared lower, the clutches will have to shift FURTHER in order to obtain the same final drive ratio. This means that at the same final drive ratio, the secondary is opened FURTHER, and the secondary spring is under MORE TENSION. The overall effect is that by gearing down, you are ALSO tightening the secondary.
Adding weight to the primary will increase the force squeezing the primary sheaves together, forcing it to shift further and bring your RPMs back down to where you want them.
After every adjustment to the clutches, even if it seems to be running good, check their TEMPERATURE. If they're too hot to keep your hand on comfortably, then you have excessive belt slippage and need to fix that.
The most sensible way to make performance adjustments is to make them ONE AT A TIME. If you adjust 15 things at the same time, it can be VERY difficult to figure out what effect each adjustment had.
What I suggest you do is this; Stick in your new, lower gearing, and LEAVE IT. Test it out and see how it works. I can confidently say that it'll head for ~11000 RPM when you make that change. It'll drink gas like a '47 Ford and your top end will suffer because you're running several hundred rpm beyond the point of peak power.
THEN, when you know what its trying to do, you start playing with the clutches. I *really* doubt that you'll want to tighten the secondary.
The thing about the secondary is this; when you're geared lower, the clutches will have to shift FURTHER in order to obtain the same final drive ratio. This means that at the same final drive ratio, the secondary is opened FURTHER, and the secondary spring is under MORE TENSION. The overall effect is that by gearing down, you are ALSO tightening the secondary.
Adding weight to the primary will increase the force squeezing the primary sheaves together, forcing it to shift further and bring your RPMs back down to where you want them.
After every adjustment to the clutches, even if it seems to be running good, check their TEMPERATURE. If they're too hot to keep your hand on comfortably, then you have excessive belt slippage and need to fix that.
YAMMERHAULER
Extreme
Thanks Lazy. Your right. Try one thing at a time or I could get myself lost and not know what adjustment is wrong. Great info . Thanks again
