Mountain Lite gears

[gabe7924]

The stock gearing is good for about 80-85 Mph track speed and a stock phazer can't get anywhere close to that so why go higher? Put a mark on your clutch sheaves with a felt pen going from the center to the outside and take your sled for a ride I bet you will be suprised at how much of the mark is left over. Like I said I had a good inch left which means I was not even getting 1:1 and these sleds have overdrive. My owner's manual states that the sleds are set up from the factory for 0-3000 feet and require adjustment for anythig higher.

phazerboost, what model are you speaking about? Also, are you talking about the owners manual? or the factory service manual?

 

[yamy07]

Still waiting on my 19t gear. Anyone compare top speeds before & after gear change?

 

[teerex]

I got my 20 tooth FX gear after a week.

 

[rfabro]

Phazerboost, you gotta give us a write-up of the turbo install and how she runs....please?

 

[skater]

The reason the dealer wanted me to come back to install the 19 is because Yamaha recommended it to prevent possible over reving. I didn't want any void warrantee problems so I had it installed.

 

[MtnLiteMartin]

If i understand right, the way to go to stop hitting the rev limiter is to put rivets in the clutch weights??I hit the rev limiter all the time with the sea level altitude kit (19 gear and differents clutch weights). When i pin it ,I hit the rev limiter (12500+)and then get 11300 to 11600 rpm.

 

[phazerboost]

I have a Mountain lite and I was talking about the owner's manual. The turbo is awsome! I was out drag racing and was beating up and my bro's M7 and a buddies pre rev summit 800. I had a full tank of gas and weigh more than both of them. That was with the stock 17/41 gearing when I install my 9 tooth drivers I should be able to do close to 95 Mph. Hey Martin you are right, if you want to bring your RPM down you add weight. Your problem sounds more like too much spring tension in your secondary which is not letting it shift fast enough. Before you pull it apart get a chart from your dealer because it is one of those ABC/1234
clutches.

 

[phazerboost]

Hey rfabro, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! I worked on mine for 20 hours with two other guys, one of which has a turbo RX-1 and has had it apart a couple of times. We still managed to get ahead of ourselves a couple of times and had to back track. Be careful when installing the cams, I knocked the timing chain of of the crank and if I had not looked inside with a flashlite I would have had big problems since it still rotated the cams when turned over by hand. I was also told to zip tie the chain to the sprockets when removing the tensioner to prevent the cams from skipping and putting them out of time. Make sure you pay really close attention when working on the valve train, don't knock any of the valve shims out of place and make sure you don't drop the compression relief mechanism out of the cam shaft. It will only fall out of the sprocket end of the cam but can be a real head scratcher when you have to put it back in. Once agian pey real close attection to the valve train it will be the end of a good motor if you don't. Don't let me scare you just don't get too drunk and expect everything to go like clockwork.

 

[rfabro]

Hey rfabro, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! I worked on mine for 20 hours with two other guys, one of which has a turbo RX-1 and has had it apart a couple of times. We still managed to get ahead of ourselves a couple of times and had to back track. Be careful when installing the cams, I knocked the timing chain of of the crank and if I had not looked inside with a flashlite I would have had big problems since it still rotated the cams when turned over by hand. I was also told to zip tie the chain to the sprockets when removing the tensioner to prevent the cams from skipping and putting them out of time. Make sure you pay really close attention when working on the valve train, don't knock any of the valve shims out of place and make sure you don't drop the compression relief mechanism out of the cam shaft. It will only fall out of the sprocket end of the cam but can be a real head scratcher when you have to put it back in. Once agian pey real close attection to the valve train it will be the end of a good motor if you don't. Don't let me scare you just don't get too drunk and expect everything to go like clockwork.

Ha ha! I can't work on sh*t drunk so no way would I try! Thanx for the tips. Did you break your motor in stock? I am particularly interested in throttle response/lag difference from stock. Like when you snap the throttle open from idle at standing start till the sled launches. Being in BC, the altitude auto-boost must be real nice- especially when you get gearing/clutching dialed.

 

[MtnLiteMartin]

If I want to lower spring tension on the secondary, do I increase or decrease the angle. I found this in a past thread

 

[MtnLiteMartin]

Well i took off the secondary and I was at B1(55deg)...I put it at A1(45deg) and I still hit the rev limiter. What will happen if i go much lower??

 

[phazerboost]

Hey rfabro, I put 300 k on my motor before I installed the turbo. Proper break in is 500 k so I guess I shorted it a little. I has a little lag if you nail it from an idle. I put some shims in my primary to bring the engagement up to 5000 RPM and if I bring it up to 4500 and then nail it there is almost no lag. There is another guy in a diferent thread who got his engagement up to 5500 and says there is no lag at all.
Hey martin, if you want to lower the spring tension use less preload which equals less twist angle. When you lowered the twist angle did it hit the limiter less or the same? What did it do once it settled in, did it run below 11000 or stay above? I think it will be difficult to clutch with that 19 tooth sprocket in the chain case because you will not be able to take full advantage of the gearing range that your clutch has. In my oppinion a snowmobile should start to gain RPM on the top end once the clutches have shifted out all the way and it still has power to go faster. If you can't hit the limiter no matter how long you hold it open and your speedo is no longer climbing I think you need more gear reduction.

 

[rfabro]

Thanks for the input, phazerboost. Let us know how that thing pulls out of turns and up the hills. Have fun

 

[MtnLiteMartin]

After talkin with a few friends, I think I will let the clutching alone. The sled has great response and I really like the way it runs. I hit the rev limiter when I pin it from a stop or when goin slow. I'll just adjust my driving to that!! And I dont think hitting the rev limiter a few times will hurt the engine. It touches the limiter for very short time (like 0,5 sec) and once it gets goin it never get there!

Thanks for your replys Phazerboost...I now know clutches a little better...And I bought a brand new pair of snap-ring pliers to open the secondary

 

[phazerboost]

I went ot the mountains on Friday and the sled charges hard up the hills with the skis at least a foot in the air the whole time. The only time I had problems was when I hit really deep stuff and the turbo would breath in steam from the snow hitting the exhaust. I already have the sled apart and am going to wrap the exhaust in header tape and close off the tunnel completely. I blew a hose off too, and wrenched for about an hour and a half because it was right beside the engine. I am going to make sure that this doesn't happen again by rolling a proper lip in the charge tubes and using t-bar hose clamps.