My MP Experience

[YukonMP]

I've got a lot of good info and help on TY and just want to share my experience of owning a 2014 MP. I'm keeping it but am trying to get a 2018 VK Pro although I may have to wait for the 2020s. Right now I am servicing the sled and it has 12,432 kms on it.

I have to report the steering, ball joints, and bushings are reasonably tight. No slop in any bushings, an inch of freeplay in the steering and only one ball joint I can get to make noise. This is not most peoples experience and I have to say I take it really easy, on rutted trails on the lake I let it pick where it wants to go. Also, I lube with 80w-90 axle oil. I warm it up to thin it and apply to a warm sled. I believe it gets in the joints and once the sled is out in the cold the axle fluid stays put.

All of my idlers are original and have never been cleaned or repacked. All I do is slide a grease needle in behind the seal at 3 points on either side and give a little shot. This is the first time I've done them all, till now I've just spun them and done the grumpy ones. This gets done every 1000k.

My clutches have never been off the sled. I may get there one day but I'm not that much of a mechanic. I've cleaned the clutches as I learned to on TY. Scotchbrite the faces, brake cleaner, and inspect. My sheaves are perfectly smooth, rollers wearing evenly and there is the slightest flat spot developing where the weights make initial contact with the rollers. I swap back and forth between my two belts every 1000km and have never blown a belt. They both have over 6000 km on them and I just retired one of them. Stock belts.

Still on original battery. Below -25C I take steps to pamper it. Either park inside, unheated but out of the wind or plug in and use a booster pack right from the start. I don't really know what it is capable of but my friend who had one said after 3 years his could do -40. Mine definitely was still loosening up in the second year.

I run 8 inch powderhounds and like them a lot. I believe the only suspension setting that is not stock is the sway bar which I think is now softest. I've even had it off and wouldn't recommend that.

My sliders are still original and have the typical drastic wear on front of the front idlers. One side is worse than the other and all I'm going to say is that caribou were involved. Tomorrow I am installing BuRP rail
scratchers in the hope that I can get more than a season out of a pair.

I'm no mechanic but I have managed to stay away from the dealers so far. The track has at least 4 lugs that have just started to tear/open up. If it deteriorates quickly it will go in for a new one and I'll have everything they can think of done.

There is more I probably should be doing but to a novice these things are a little intimidating. I walk a fine line between 'If it ain't broke don't fix it' and trying to do a reasonable job of maintaining the machine. I suspect pulling the secondary is something I should try but there are threads about the nasty circlip. Part of the reason I get by this way is because I ride daily but less than 30km most days. If anything starts to go I might catch it and it only ruins a day, not my whole vacation.

All of the above is intended to allay the apprehensions of anyone who might be thinking these machines aren't for them because they either aren't mechanical or rich enough. I am neither and I've had a ball.

I would recommend the MP but with caveats. Foremost, it is Fugly. Less obvious, it is no deep snow trail breaking work machine. For chuckles I once went out with several mountain machines and I was able to traverse the meadows and go where I had to go but I had to be on my toes and there was no goofing around. I also insisted that none of the guys stop to help me get unstuck and I only really got stuck once. I like to say in the other instances discretion suggested I cease activities and utilize the shovel or else I would be stuck.

Tunnel icing can be a trouble with the MP but in my conditions not a big problem.

Last season I got 15.5l per 100km, that is 200km on a tank with a little to spare.

I've put this one in the drink twice, once at the lake shore on thin ice and the second time in very strange conditions in January in the middle of the lake. Neither time did it ingest water. The first time it was just in for a couple hours and all I did was check the fluids and dry out and grease the electrics. The second time it went in to just above the bottom of the seat and spent the night there. Again no harm but there was a lesson. The gas tank breather vents in a clear hose down to the left footwell. If that is immersed it will suck water into the gas tank as things cool off overnight. The solution is to crack the gas cap.

I'll add to this as I think of things and will do my best to answer questions.

 

[Mooseman]

Very nice and comprehensive review.

Very interesting your use of gear oil as lube for the ball joints. Wonder if using something like w140 would make it stay on even longer?

Incredible that you're still on your original idlers and bearings. What about the drive bearings? I'm still on my originals but I clean and repack them annually. The lower one where the speedo sensor is located is somewhat prone to failure as it's exposed more to snow on the track side. I've seen one fail on my son's Phazer and it's no picnic to replace.

You should definitely check your secondary for the wear on the plastic buttons. Don't fear the clip too much but just know how to deal with it. Just use a new one, put the flatter side out and don't spread it open more than necessary to get it on the shaft. @yamahas put up a video on how to do them here somewhere in the FAQ. If you're a little braver and know a machinist, this guy modified it to use a much stronger clip. Also shows why these clips fail.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/secondary-clutch-venture-mp.152368/#post-1422496

It's also incredible that you're also on your original sliders. Probably has to do with the conditions you run in. Mine were whacked right at the front curve when I bought it with 800km. Added low-snow idlers there and oversized idlers everywhere else. I'm a heavy guy so I'm pretty hard on mine. I'm on my third set and will probably need to replace them before this season. From my research, white slides last the longest as they are pure plastic.

 

[YukonMP]

Regards the ball joints, I would say that both lowers are a little loose. I don't know how thick 140 weight is at -20 but it sure would stick and the film of thick oil is the next best thing to grease. I also use the oil for the top of the steering post which is still doing well also. None of this stuff is tight as new but it is all good for a couple more seasons.

I have the copper exhaust donuts in hand but it isn't time for them yet. Shocks are all original and in good condition.

I have a little to add in terms of opinions/impressions about the model. The MP is the most comfortable sled I have sat on. I think the passenger is treated equally as well. Sitting or standing it is a perfect fit for me at 5ft 8in. It provides good wind protection and the driver thumb and hand warmers work well. The passengers are useless. I tow a light skimmer and a small load in the back all the time without an issue. I have put it on its side a couple times and have had no issues afterward.

In my first year I remarked in a thread that the lights were fine. With more experience I take that back. If you were able to run a good speed at night I would suggest an small LED light bar.

The hood/panel system has stood up well for me and I have not had issues with excessive snow packing but I could imagine it happening. That said I have never seen the issue raised here. Maybe I'm thinking Yellowknife and his Viper here.

There is much speculation and commentary about how Yamaha does its business and what is to come in the future. When I bought my sled I was pleased that I was buying a mature model that overlapped significantly with the Phazer. At the time there was so much hullabuloo about the 600(60hp) and 900(90hp) ACE and yet Yamahas 500cc(80hp) is off the radar. I don't know if there will be a 2020 MP but if there is we know what it will be good for and we know it will be good for a long time.

 

[Mooseman]

I had replaced my donuts quite a while ago with copper and mine were basically gone with just a mesh remaining. I can't say I remember noise but I teplaced them anyway before I got hot exhaust gasses coming.out from under my gas tank.

I'm surprised you're not getting the ice boogers in the tunnel. Must be your particular conditions. I'm planning on enclosing my tunnel.

Mine has roughly the same mileage but has had much more in terms of issues. Lower ball joints have been replaced twice, idlers and bearings galore, a couple of belts, secondary clutch buttons, all steering components except outer tie rods,spindle bushings and A-arm bushings. Also had my rails break. And I'm probably forgetting some.One thing to note is that I am >300lbs. so that may play more into the extra wear and tear.

I have to agree that I love the riding position, which helps my back immensely. I've been thinking of getting a newer Venture RS/TF with EPS as my shoulders do feel it after a day of riding.

 

[YukonMP]

One thing that I did that may help keep the boogers away is removing the rubber flaps on the sides of the tunnel at the back. It also means that in some conditions there is a lot of snow swirling at the rear of the sled. All I do otherwise is pound the hell out things with a white rubber mallet when the ice is frozen solid. Of course when I do this in the morning this loads the top of the track with a lot of chunks so the first thing I do is spin the track in reverse. This reminds me to say when the sled it parked the rear is jacked off the ground. So whenever I start up the track is broken free and warmed up a bit before starting out.

I have fabricated and installed a heavy wire screen that protects the rad. An easy mod and Yamaha sells their version. Should say I virtually eliminated overheating when I diluted the coolant a bit and added Water Wetter.

Funny that you mention the RS Venture TF as that has been on my mind. There was one posted to Kijiji here and it got me thinking. In the end I decided I'd get my EPS in a VK Pro ll. I go out ice fishing a lot and am unwilling to be relying on just one sled. Stuff can break and I can fix it myself but I may not be able to fix it myself quickly. By having two sleds I will have no down time and I can enjoy working on the machines without time pressures. If I just went with the MP only its decline would be accelerated. My better half would have you know that the foregoing is self serving justification for the fact I'm getting a second new sled while we still live in a cabin with no running water or indoor facilities. To her I say, 'You knew who I was when ya picked me'.

 

[Mooseman]

Mine never had those flaps so

Definitely your situation is different. I use my machine simply for recreation whereas yours could be for survival. A backup is not unreasonable and a VK would probably fit the bill very well for what you would use it for.

To her I say, 'You knew who I was when ya picked me'.

LOL! Yes, I tell her this on a regular basis too but wind up doing this:

 

[YukonMP]

Here is an item that I have yet to follow up on and have not heard mentioned before. On page 78 of our manual they outline the process to bypass TORs, which should only be a temporary measure since TORs has an important safety function. But it is easy to test TORs and one can be familiar with its affect. So if it was to screw up the bypass is easy, I just haven't found the time to find the wires on my sled. Anybody have experience on this one?

 

[Mooseman]

No but I have had TORS activate on a few occasions temporarily. I think it was caused by my glove on the pivot point. After a short wait, it would be fine.

I can't find page "78". Manual is divided into sections (ie: 3-78). The PDF page #78 is about coil springs. I do test TORS sometimes as per the manual by holding the pivot point and pushing the throttle. This shows how it works and its effect by limiting engine speed. Once saw a video of a guy falling off a Nytro and watching the sled first speed off and then slow down and stop after TORS kicked in, so it does work. Unfortunately can't find it now.

 

[YukonMP]

Here is the manual I am looking at, it is page 84 of the pdf, 78 of the manual, first page of trouble shooting.

https://dd5394a0b8ca8e97ba29-abf76f.../common/manuals/2014/LIT-12628-03-10_2147.pdf

 

[Mooseman]

Ah. I thought you were talking about the repair manual. Interesting they have that in the owners manual. Unless you actually have issues with TORS, I wouldn't bother with it but do locate the wires in case you need to in the future.

 

[YukonMP]

And this is why my MP is named Blue. I watched the ice get blown in yesterday and took this photo this afternoon.