In fact, I don't think it is in the 2014 owners manual but it is in the service manual. The 2014 came with the sway bar in its stiffest(shortest) position. The brackets can be flipped back to front as can the bushings. The result is four settings/positions. Remember that the shorter the effective length of the arms the 'stiffer' the bar, ie.greater coupling of the fronts skis.
So I have been messing with mine. The first thing I did was take it off completely on the idea that I could more greatly affect the attitude of the sled by leaning with it off. With the bar on when I lean the sway bar resists the sleds leaning by picking up on the opposite ski AND my weight/force is being resisted by both shocks since the are coupled together by the bar. I found it an improvement in the bumpy muskeg slow going trailbreaking stuff. But it was pretty loose feeling, tossing/rocking side to side and front to back. Out on the lake it felt like it could get ugly. I'm not experienced at fast riding but it felt like it could catch an edge(like skating or skiing) and do something silly.
Next step, put it back on in the longest/least stiff position which is where it has stayed. I immediately re rode the trail I had just put in and it was definitely less pitchy yet an improvement over the factory setting. Out in the open I much prefer it back on but soft. If I'm clipping along and a ski strikes some rubble it lifts over and back down smoothly. With it on stiff I get a strong slap upwards(because essentially the shock resistance is double since they are tied to one another) from the same bump.
I hope that makes sense. Finally, to answer the question about how. The sway bar slides back and forth freely in the bracket dealies on the a-arms. The brackets each have two bolts. No secrets, no complications, easy-peasy.
Edit for clarification : I see I mention brackets twice, one set is on the a-arms(connectors really I think) and brackets with two bolts which are under the sled in front of the track. This is where the adjustments are made.
