sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Hey guys... well Billymx815, not sure were you are getting your fuel from??? but i work at the place that produces it. and i can tell you when it leaves here it is a very high quality... and i've read also that in japan... (where these are designed) they use 86 oct fuel... thats the oct level the refinery's in japan produce.... my 2 cents..
09nytro24
Extreme
Holy #*$&@ dude, all those mods and he still out runs you. I just raced a buddy last weekend with an 07 800 and pull him by a sled and a half the whole time to about 100 mph and we are both bone stock.
SledFreak
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Also, the next time you race him, make sure your transfer in set to max. Also talk to Ulmer about his modified transfer block....
billymx815
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Like I said i'm out of touch on the 4 stroke sled thing...I've had 2-stroke yamis for 15 years and this is my first 4 stroke. I think the mix up is my MX race bikes are a higher compression like one post said and I assumed the RTX needed the octane as well. I'm actually glad it doesn't (saves me lots of $$$).
As for the poor grade of fuel, we have a real issue here in New England, no joke or BS on that which is why every filling station up here sells K100 or other fuel stabilizers to combat the problem.
As for the poor grade of fuel, we have a real issue here in New England, no joke or BS on that which is why every filling station up here sells K100 or other fuel stabilizers to combat the problem.
billymx815
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09Nytro24...you beat him by a sled length past a 1/4 mile? Maybe my sled will get stronger as it breaks in then...Only has 272 miles on it...Good for you though...love to hear it
billymx815
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Sherlock29...What refinery do you work for? I worf for Honeywell and we have a large presence in process controls for many Canadian fuel refiners...
09nytro24
Extreme
Yea i have around 1000 miles on mine but i have beat the crap out of it since the first day i hit the snow. That is how i run all my stuff and mine all seem to be factory freaks (same with my 03 F7).
I am suprised though with all the mods you have that you don't just smoke him though. Like some said above the clutch is key. I heard the guy from ulmer say that his clutch is good for about 2-3 sled lengths for a stock sled. Once you get that thing dialed in you should inialte him!
I am suprised though with all the mods you have that you don't just smoke him though. Like some said above the clutch is key. I heard the guy from ulmer say that his clutch is good for about 2-3 sled lengths for a stock sled. Once you get that thing dialed in you should inialte him!
SledFreak
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billymx815 said:09Nytro24...you beat him by a sled length past a 1/4 mile? Maybe my sled will get stronger as it breaks in then...Only has 272 miles on it...Good for you though...love to hear it
It will take a min of a 700-1000 miles before you see the full potential of that motor where it becomes alive so to speak. But to be honest, it takes a really good 2500 miles for that motor to be fully broken in... Add some 0W-20 oil for another 3hp.... You can also add the ignition controller and run the sled @9300RPM for even better on top end... But do the clutching and gearing first and when you change your oil start running full synthetic 0W20... By the end of the winter with lots of miles that gade won't even want to race anymore....
billymx815
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09Nytro24...No doubt it shouldn't be much of a race once it's dialed in and the engine is broken in.
It isn't even close out of the hole but he gains on me hard around 70-80mph so maybe this is a clutch issue...
It isn't even close out of the hole but he gains on me hard around 70-80mph so maybe this is a clutch issue...
skoalring11
Pro
You have factory cluthching in that machine? How is it not bouncing off the rev limiter. I put on a yoshi silencer and i hit the limiter once in a while
billymx815
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skoalring...I'm not hitting the rev limiter because i,m backing out of the throttle early. Sled only has 272 miles on it...So maybe after break-in and I stay in the throttle that may be another problem.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
irving in sj
yeah your losing it with clutching, and gearing..and about a 5% loss depending upn your mix rate on fuel...
as others have said, octane is NOT power, Octane only controls burn rate...So, you are actually getting less efficiency in the engine, and just wasting money for less power...
you should easily pull him at 1/4 and longer...but I am not a lake racer...screw all the minor mods, and just go boost!!!!!!!!
as others have said, octane is NOT power, Octane only controls burn rate...So, you are actually getting less efficiency in the engine, and just wasting money for less power...
you should easily pull him at 1/4 and longer...but I am not a lake racer...screw all the minor mods, and just go boost!!!!!!!!
I was thinking the same thing. Get a turbo or supercharger and totally kill everything in a drag race. Why win by a little when you could win by a lot?mtdream said:yeah your losing it with clutching, and gearing..and about a 5% loss depending upn your mix rate on fuel...
as others have said, octane is NOT power, Octane only controls burn rate...So, you are actually getting less efficiency in the engine, and just wasting money for less power...
you should easily pull him at 1/4 and longer...but I am not a lake racer...screw all the minor mods, and just go boost!!!!!!!!
Hough
Newbie
billymx815 said:09Nytro24...No doubt it shouldn't be much of a race once it's dialed in and the engine is broken in.
It isn't even close out of the hole but he gains on me hard around 70-80mph so maybe this is a clutch issue...
theres no doubt its the clutching... i can see how you are used to dirt bikes with manual clutches/tranny/chain drive... obviously you can mod a bike and not touch the clutching and your mods will give the proper results at the rear wheel...
sleds with the CVT are a different animal... think of it this way: every stock sled is clutched to match the same exact horsepower from the factory, (some factories are better at getting it clutched than others)
the stock clutching is designed to keep your RPMs of a stock motor within a certain range for stock horsepower...
as soon as you change the horsepower the stock clutching will not get that extra power to the ground... an increase in max RPMs will verify that you increased the horsepower with your mods... (the stock clutch weights are no longer heavy enough for the horsepower)
whatever company you buy your mods from will know what you need for clutching, and they should be able to tell you what your target max RPMs will be with the mods...
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