I've recently had a really weird electrical problem with an 03, and one thing that I've learned from it is that throwing a code *could* mean that what it says is accurate, or, it could mean that the ECU is just going nuts, which could be caused by bad ground, or if your problem is like mine, because your primary clutch weights have become magnetized and threw an oscillating EM field that messed with the ECU. Now the thing here is that the ignition being messed up definitely lines up with the code being thrown (mine threw a "grip warmer switch disconnected"... but mine is an 03... yours may throw a different random code when it is messed up), so hopefully it is at least accurate.
BUT, it could also just be random.
Dumping money into it is VERY premature. Proper diagnostics procedures must be followed BEFORE spending any money. In particular, TESTING the stator. There are FIVE WIRES coming out of the stator running into TWO PLUGS in the nose of the sled. The plug with TWO wires is the one you're looking for. Check the RESISTANCE between the two wires. It should be 189 ~ 231 Ohms. Also check it for CONTINUITY TO GROUND -- should be ZERO, as in NOT CONNECTED.
Also inspect all the wires CAREFULLY. In particular, the wires between the plug and the ECU, it could also be shorted on the frame between the stator and the plug. On some older models, these wires were frequently chafed against some sharp metal in the nose. I don't know what, if anything, they did to prevent that on newer models.
If your coil resistance is low or you have continuity to ground, then DO NOT just go out and buy a new stator! It is VERY possible that you may be able to REPAIR the existing stator. It is ***EXTREMELY*** unlikely that the coil itself is damaged in any way, leaving only the WIRES (there was a bulletin that applied to... not sure what range of years... about the pickup coil wire getting rubbed by the starter gear under the cover). Wires can easily be repaired or replaced for a couple of bucks. If the coil itself is damaged, then you've got worse problems to worry about than buying a new stator, specifically, the source of the debris that got in there and caused the damage (because it would virtually HAVE to be mechanical..), and what other damage that debris may have caused. It really is impossible for the coil itself to be randomly defective. I can pretty much guarantee that you can either replace the wire (99.9999000%), or the problem is so severe that replacing the stator won't be useful (0.0000999%). I rate the chances of you needing to dump money and just buy a new stator as 0.0000001%.
If it becomes necessary to remove the stator (to repair wires under the cover), the following may help:
The stator actually comes off this engine surprisingly easily. Remove the oil tank to expose the stator end of the engine (make sure that you drain the oil from the oil tank and engine before proceeding... you can save the oil to put back in later.). There are a bunch of ALLEN HEAD BOLTS holding the cover on the engine. Remove those bolts and then pry the cover loose using a screwdriver on the pry point towards the upper right. It WILL RESIST being pulled off, because the stator is bolted into this cover, and is being held in by very strong magnets. Pull hard and it will just pop out.
