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NEED HELP WITH BOONDOCKER TURBO

GotMoreBoost

Veteran
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
34
Location
BRIGHTON MI.
Hey guys I'm new to this turbo stuff and can't seem to get the bugs worked out of my boondocker 28gt turbo. The thing will run stong when it's running right but always seems to have issues every weekend. This latest weekend all it would do is spit and pop we tried adding more fuel to it but by the time we did that smoke was pouring out the exhaust badly Boondocker knows about the problem and were nice enough to send out A whole new turbo they think the turbo was bad but I'm not sure that is going to solve all of my problems has anyone else had any problems????
 

Is the turbo off the sled? If you look at both the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel does it look like the wheels have contacted the housings in way usally the edge of the wheels will get rolled over. You should have a little play it the wheels but if they haven't hit the housings and if the wastegate is functioning then the turbo is not bad. You can apply a regulated air supply to the accuator of the turbo and it should open and close freely and it shouldn't leak air. Maybe if you can post some pics looking down at the compressor wheel (aluminum wheel)
 
4kops said:
Is the turbo off the sled? If you look at both the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel does it look like the wheels have contacted the housings in way usally the edge of the wheels will get rolled over. You should have a little play it the wheels but if they haven't hit the housings and if the wastegate is functioning then the turbo is not bad. You can apply a regulated air supply to the accuator of the turbo and it should open and close freely and it shouldn't leak air. Maybe if you can post some pics looking down at the compressor wheel (aluminum wheel)

I have not taken it apart yet but will this weekend and can post pics thanks for the help!!
 
Stupid question but have you checked your intercooler to t-bodie boots for leaks or loose clamp?
 
snoboner said:
Stupid question but have you checked your intercooler to t-bodie boots for leaks or loose clamp?

I actually have not checked anything yet we are gonna tear into it this weekend. We are just looking for some insight on what it might be?
Do any of you guys have this kit and if you do have you had any problems? I got my kit and some things were missing and had no clear directions. My side panels won't even fit right.
 
Shooter, I thought you were going to be at the mach z shootout this weekend?
 
Mine runs perfect, and has since the install. :Rockon: I have spent time getting the jettings and clutching how I want it, but the sled has been flawless from the get go. But I did the install, maybe yours had an install problem. There is lots of kits out there working good, but some have had issues, most have been install. :ORC

My side panel does not fit good either. The compressor is large enough that it touches and will not let the panel sit tight. I heated the panel up to get it to contour around the intake. It works but still is not perfect. :o|

Depending on the color of smoke, would determine what to look for. If its oil, where's it coming from.....? Have you ran good enough fuel in for the boost your running? Is everything tight? Do you have to fuel pressure set right?

To help with the tuning, what compression are you running? How much boost? What injectors? Let me know what you got and I will try my best to help you out with setup. :yam:
 
My panel and fit were good. there was a kicker for the attachment point for the panel below the compressor that moved everything out about an inch. Yws the instructions sucked like a tornado
 
Sounds like there is an air leak some where in the system or a plumbing issue. Check to make sure that the throttle bodies are still in the boots from the head and the boots are still on the head. Have seen several supercharged apexs that have blown t-bodies off of the head. The boots have some kind of lube or something on them from assembly. Clean the boots and t-bodies with brake clean and use super glue, 3M emblem adhesive or some other kind of glue to stick the boots to the head and the t-bodies. Its a pain in the a$$ to do, but it really sucks to do on the hill! Check to make sure the intercooler is still on the t-bodies all of the way too.

My rx kit has been has been mostly trouble free except for keeping the intercooler on the 2 right carbs. The lower right corner of the upper intercooler plenum was hitting the oil tank. That let the cooler rock up and down and eventually come off of the two right carbs. Had a guy cut the corner of the cooler that was hitting and reweld it so it would clear. Also welded some tabs on each side of the cooler and use some small turnbuckles to hold the cooler to the delta box. Shes not comin' off any more!
 
If I owned a Boondocker setup, (Which I just about purchased before deciding on an Alpine 28rs) the first thing I would do is ditch the boondocker fuel box and put a pure logic on that sled. It may not be the problem but if you want a turn-key sled.........the pure logic boxes are the way to go. :Rockon:
 
Mine is a turn key sled, and I only need one box. No need for a spare, or two like the Dobeck.

Seriously, I ran both the boondockers box and the Boss Tfi on my Rt last year, and liked the Boss much better. I have not tried the Pure Logic on my Apex, as there has been no reason. My machine runs fine with the boondockers box.
 
That's great you have got yours dialed but that is often times not the case. Some are getting the boondocker boxes to work but many are converting over with much better results. Even Outlaw Motorsports is reccomending the Pure Logic boxes and they install more boondocker turbo kits than anyone else I know. If you are running the bigger turbo you can build more boost (power) without having to screw around with the injectors as well. To each their own.
 
Is it just that the Pure logic is easier to tune? Or that its just load based?

Also, how is it building more power? I run stock injectors still, with the bigger turbo, and to buy a 300 box versus new injectors when the time comes would be great. But I would like to know how its possible?
 
I haven't read every post in this thd so if someone else has already said this you'll get a double take. You need to mount the fuel delivery control box out from under the hood so that the temp differential does not create condensation inside the box. obviuosly you do not want it in a high risk area but you do want air flow across it. I think you will find that it runs alot better that way. All the boondockers I have been arond did that and it worked for them. The boondocker box works pretty good till about 17lbs. then you start running lean. the pure logic does appear to be a god fix if you want to go over that (or under for that matter).
 

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