need maximun wight transfer!

[SharkAttak]

It's a snap to remove; two 14 mm bolts with nylock nuts. I tried it on hard pack and it sure was a wheelie monster. I didn't like how when I got off the throttle the front end slammed back down. My MachZ never did this and attribute it to the heavier front end on the Apex. I put it back in because conditions were glare ice and hard pack. In these conditions it still launched like a monster when I put it back in. This sled is a monster and I'm quite pleased with how the previous owner has it set up. In condions like this I would definately keep the rod in. I will try it out again once the snow gets fluffier and deeper.

For the record, in those conditions a souped up Nytro and XTX is no match for the 4 cylinder. There's a couple guys who can attest to this now. I got the holeshot on both and ran away from them. Both said they thought for sure they would be neck and neck till 100 or so. They were sadly disapointed to say the least

i'm going to keep mine in and change the studs to 1.450 and add some to the tunnel protectors, i like the nytro's but i think i would go with the doo 1200 4-stroke before buying a nytro

 

[catchmeifucan]

Front end slamming down is your engine braking. Once you get used to it, you will not have a problem. Clutching changes can decrease EB. I run a lot lighter weights in primary. You can carry the rod with you and remove/install whenever you want. I have over a 1000 miles on since I took it out and hardly notice it gone, now that I am used to it. Other riders who try my sled find it annoying. I was the same way getting used to the engine brake when I first bought the sled in '06.
Play with suspension setup a bit and give it a chance. I have my limiter strap up to second hole, non-studded, cobra, maxed out on stock shock, BRP anti-ratchets, 13mm bar, pilot 6.9’s.
Ease back on throttle, not full release, when going into corners. Eventually, you will get used to it. It is definitely slower corner to corner, but the whole idea from the beginning was a better hole shot to beat yer buddies.

 

[SharkAttak]

Front end slamming down is your engine braking. Once you get used to it, you will not have a problem. Clutching changes can decrease EB. I run a lot lighter weights in primary. You can carry the rod with you and remove/install whenever you want. I have over a 1000 miles on since I took it out and hardly notice it gone, now that I am used to it. Other riders who try my sled find it annoying. I was the same way getting used to the engine brake when I first bought the sled in '06.
Play with suspension setup a bit and give it a chance. I have my limiter strap up to second hole, non-studded, cobra, maxed out on stock shock, BRP anti-ratchets, 13mm bar, pilot 6.9’s.
Ease back on throttle, not full release, when going into corners. Eventually, you will get used to it. It is definitely slower corner to corner, but the whole idea from the beginning was a better hole shot to beat yer buddies.

it must be a lot of fun, but have you noticed any wear in the skid, any damage?

 

[catchmeifucan]

have not noticed anything in skid, nor any marks in track. i did not do it for wheelies, but just to get more transfer out of it. this may not work with the apex as well as it does on the attak/ltx, have no experience there. getting rid of the clunking in the stutter bumps on small trails alone is worth doing it for.

 

[SharkAttak]

have not noticed anything in skid, nor any marks in track. i did not do it for wheelies, but just to get more transfer out of it. this may not work with the apex as well as it does on the attak/ltx, have no experience there. getting rid of the clunking in the stutter bumps on small trails alone is worth doing it for.

if it can solve my total transfer so i can hook and book, it's worth it, i going to give it a try, your not studded right?

 

[catchmeifucan]

no studs, cobra track, not worth studding where i sled the most as it snows almost every night.

 

[SharkAttak]

no studs, cobra track, not worth studding where i sled the most as it snows almost every night.

i agree, i just want to get max transfer with having to use longer studs, wonder if there was a way to modify the transfer rod, i know some guys take the washers out

 

[catchmeifucan]

i used rubber grommets in mine untill i decided to try it out. i am watching to see if the w arm lasts longer since it is not beating all the time at the transfer rod limits. i never liked the suspension as it was stock, and was just waiting to get a sc4 at a good price, so i said, what the heck, and took it out, and no problems since.

 

[SharkAttak]

i used rubber grommets in mine untill i decided to try it out. i am watching to see if the w arm lasts longer since it is not beating all the time at the transfer rod limits. i never liked the suspension as it was stock, and was just waiting to get a sc4 at a good price, so i said, what the heck, and took it out, and no problems since.

yeah grommets would work, i had Aaron Excell a few years back put in an Expert-X suspension in my Viper and it transfers wicked, ski's come right up, no spin takes right off

 

[yamahahaha]

Take out the transfer rod and hang on.

if someone were to do this would the rear susp b fine? like small jumps and rough trails? and is there transfer rods in an 06 apex rtx?

 

[SharkAttak]

Take out the transfer rod and hang on.

if someone were to do this would the rear susp b fine? like small jumps and rough trails? and is there transfer rods in an 06 apex rtx?

i've seen mixed answers about that, i would say if you ice/pond racing take it out, but if your a trailer rider keep it in

 

[SledFreak]

It's a snap to remove; two 14 mm bolts with nylock nuts. I tried it on hard pack and it sure was a wheelie monster. I didn't like how when I got off the throttle the front end slammed back down. My MachZ never did this and attribute it to the heavier front end on the Apex. I put it back in because conditions were glare ice and hard pack. In these conditions it still launched like a monster when I put it back in. This sled is a monster and I'm quite pleased with how the previous owner has it set up. In condions like this I would definately keep the rod in. I will try it out again once the snow gets fluffier and deeper.

For the record, in those conditions a souped up Nytro and XTX is no match for the 4 cylinder. There's a couple guys who can attest to this now. I got the holeshot on both and ran away from them. Both said they thought for sure they would be neck and neck till 100 or so. They were sadly disapointed to say the least

Dan, Next time you can come to the UP for a ride, let me know so we can see just how good a modded XTX will run against your sled. Although, I would prefer to race an Apex, because I feel the traction is more equal, I would have no problems seeing what it could do against a 136 4 cylinder. Allen Ulmer told me there is no way an Apex will touch a Nytro in 660. mod for mod... At 660 ft. A well setup Nytro will hold off (side by side) an Apex up to the 1000ft mark...

The other thing is that you have to remember is the XTX is only beneficial on soft snow conditions. On hard conditions it acts like a 121" for traction. On a hard surface the back of the sled is barely touching the ground. Now an Attack/LTX has great traction and I believe that is really what you are seeing as to why it is is faster then the Nytro and the 4 cylinder is truely being utilized.

1.450" studs.... I had 1.325 in my Apex and it would just not hookup. I then added 1.450 and it's a complete monster now. That is the problem with the 4 strokes. 4 strokes put out way to much torque and it just blows the track out. 3000 miles with 1.450 studs and never an issue. I also installed 1/8" aluminum tunnel protectors to the existing ones and all was good. Keep proper track tension is also key, since you slow down with a loose track. That was old school thinking because tracks were alot heavier and had a very low profile, so it helped for top end performance. Not so much any more..... Good clutching and 1.450 studs is the best performance mod you can do to ones of these sleds.

 

[SledFreak]

Take out the transfer rod and hang on.

if someone were to do this would the rear susp b fine? like small jumps and rough trails? and is there transfer rods in an 06 apex rtx?

i've seen mixed answers about that, i would say if you ice/pond racing take it out, but if your a trailer rider keep it in

Do not remove the control rod... Set it to max and it is enough to get a good launch. Having the skis point to the moon, makes a sled slow.

 

[yamahahaha]

I want the skis to the moon...!

 

[yamahahaha]

where is the tracsfer rod on the apex skid?