Need to rant about Yamaha exhaust

[Alatalo]

header flange tubes

If you remove the flex tubes from the cylinder head, you should re-install them together with a new header gasket. The workshop manual says not to re-use the header gasket.

 

[YammyRX1]

Was that on your RX1?

My father picked up a 2005 RX1 with about the same mileage a week ago, so it might be worth checking on his sled too?

It was my RX-1 and I had no indications that anything was bad. I am doing the Apex seat mod and thought 'While I'm in there I should look at the donuts'. Good thing that I did now and not in the middle of the season.

 

[Dimebag]

I see. Same thing here. No indications that anything was bad here either.
Ill have him check the donuts on his sled too.

I ordered a new set of copper donuts for mine. Also, I grinded a couple millimeters off the clamps to ensure a tighter fit.
They had not come loose on my turbo, so that seemed to do the trick.

Thanks.

 

[YammyRX1]

What do you guys think about replacing all the screws in the exhaust system with stainless steel ones? They all seem to deteriorate so bad I'm afraid that the next time I do this they will snap and I'm not sure I want to use anti-seize on them in case they loosen.

 

[LJ 452]

I replaced the y-pipe bolts (the ones in the tunnel) with stainless. I wouldn't use stainless on the clamps. Or flex pipes, just put antisieze on them. I used it every time and nothing ever came loose. Oddly the Phazer clamp bolts are flanger and coated, at least on the 08'. I would get those and leave the header bolts alone. Maybe replace after three or four removeals.

 

[DelgatyXTX]

My clamp bolts weren't even that tight and they held. I'm actually thinking of not reinstalling the hanger bracket and just using a stainless hex bolt with a locknut. Then use washers to get the right spacing.

 

[LJ 452]

My clamp bolts weren't even that tight and they held. I'm actually thinking of not reinstalling the hanger bracket and just using a stainless hex bolt with a locknut. Then use washers to get the right spacing.

My suggestion would be to rivet the bracket back on, then use the lossen everything up, and remove the flex/headers. The flex pipes are known to fail, and when they do, you run the risk of burning you sled to the ground, there is heat padding in there but it will soon be gone. I had evidence of burnt grass, and whatnot in mine. The bracket for the y-pipe is really the only thing keeping the pipe in place, the front of the muffler pipe is also supported by it. My guess is that without a strong connection at that bracket you will either create a stress crack in the tunnel or wear through the donuts even faster, or both.

I know one should replace the gasket between the flex and engine, however I always kept track of where each one came from as well as the orientation of each. In the six or eight sets of donuts I've changed out never a leak at the block, or anywhere for that matter. That was on an Apex, Nytro, and Phazer.

 

[DelgatyXTX]

My clamp bolts weren't even that tight and they held. I'm actually thinking of not reinstalling the hanger bracket and just using a stainless hex bolt with a locknut. Then use washers to get the right spacing.

My suggestion would be to rivet the bracket back on, then use the lossen everything up, and remove the flex/headers. The flex pipes are known to fail, and when they do, you run the risk of burning you sled to the ground, there is heat padding in there but it will soon be gone. I had evidence of burnt grass, and whatnot in mine. The bracket for the y-pipe is really the only thing keeping the pipe in place, the front of the muffler pipe is also supported by it. My guess is that without a strong connection at that bracket you will either create a stress crack in the tunnel or wear through the donuts even faster, or both.

I know one should replace the gasket between the flex and engine, however I always kept track of where each one came from as well as the orientation of each. In the six or eight sets of donuts I've changed out never a leak at the block, or anywhere for that matter. That was on an Apex, Nytro, and Phazer.

That's not what I wanted to hear! I found some partially burnt grass/hay around the flex pipes but thought nothing of it. I'm just really afraid to pull those bolts out of the block because I don't feel like re-tapping any holes if I strip them. The heat padding is still in good shape on mine.

 

[mewaschuk]

[/quote]

That's not what I wanted to hear! I found some partially burnt grass/hay around the flex pipes but thought nothing of it. I'm just really afraid to pull those bolts out of the block because I don't feel like re-tapping any holes if I strip them. The heat padding is still in good shape on mine.[/quote]

waint until the mice make a nest in there that starts to smolder once the exhaust gets hot...
i did mine last year by removing the muffler, mid pipe and fuel tank. all 3 were shot at around 2800mi.

 

[DelgatyXTX]

That's not what I wanted to hear! I found some partially burnt grass/hay around the flex pipes but thought nothing of it. I'm just really afraid to pull those bolts out of the block because I don't feel like re-tapping any holes if I strip them. The heat padding is still in good shape on mine.[/quote]

waint until the mice make a nest in there that starts to smolder once the exhaust gets hot...
i did mine last year by removing the muffler, mid pipe and fuel tank. all 3 were shot at around 2800mi.[/quote]

That's one thing I'm glad I don't have to worry about. There's very little chance of mice getting into my garage and even littler chance of them getting in my sled since it gets elevated on the lift all the time.

I'm wondering if, for more proection I should line the top heat sheild with heat tape.

 

[LJ 452]

The head bolts are surprisingly easy to remove, believe me I sat and contemplated the method for a few hours before saying F it and trying it. The first time I replaced the donuts I removed the bracket as you did and I may have even posted about it. Just get a quality tool and let her rip, keep good forward pressure and alignment on the bolt and it will pop out. Of course because it's aluminum you will have one or several that hold until they snap loose (not snap as in broken). Fortunately Yamaha used good quality hardware and they shouldn't strip or break if you've got good tools. Apply some anti seize when reinstalling and it will be even easier the next time.

As far as burnt grass and what not, it's normal, as the track throws all kinds of crap into that area, point is that if the headers are cracked now you have a flame thrower in there trying to melt whatever protection is in place. Not much will stand up to 1000+ degrees of flame front including the aluminum shield, heat tape, fuel tank.

 

[revster]

My head bolts didn't go as smooth. Most came out fine but one of them fought to the death.

 

[mike3577]

3200 miles on mine and never even new they were bad till I took it for the last ride of the season.started to hear the clamps vibrating tore it down all 3 completly gone.orderd copper ones today.