New 2011 Carryover Nytro Xtx Oil Change??

[yamariv]

Hey Guys, I'm new to the site and just put a deposit on a new carryover 2011 Nytro Xtx still in the crate. Can't wait to ride again! I used to have Arctic Cats and quit riding for a few years. I've always had Yamaha motorcycles which have all been amazing so this time I decided to go with Yamaha.

I am pretty fussy with my toys and wanted some opinions if I should change out the 2 yr old oil that has been sitting in the machine before I break it in? I know that new oil in a sealed container would still be good after 2 years but oil that has been sitting in an engine for that long? Although the engine is new, it was still started at the factory I'm sure so it would have some acids in it right? Does Yamaha put in a special break in oil from the factory or is that just a myth?

Cheers, great forum you guys have!

 

[Mtnviper]

Welcome to the site!

If its new in the crate and hasn't been stored outside where it can go through large temprature changes, I would go ahead and run it. Then just change it at the first 500 miles like the manual recommends.

Not sure if there is "break in" oil in them. I've never been able to find information stating that there this, as far as I know they come filled with the recommended Yamalube.

Bill

 

[yamariv]

Thanks Bill! I'll ask how it was stored and take it from there.

 

[mike3577]

I would just change it just so you no that the oil is good,and that the oil filter isnt falling apart from having oil sitting in it for so long,you probly would be fine not doing it but I like thing perfect lol

 

[yamariv]

That's a good point Mike, never thought of that. Thanks! It's cheap insurance to change it too.

 

[00-NUKE]

From a bad experience with my 08' and talking extensively with several Yamaha Technicians, they do put in what you refer to as "break in" oil. It's a non-synthetic. I would not fear running it one bit, if you picked it up from the dealersip with oil in it. The Nytro's oil system is basically a sealed system and outside temps have no factor on the viscosity (break down) of the oil. Moisture does, but the moisture would effect the un-lubricated surfaces more so than the lubrication. If you decide to change it right away, it's much like breaking in a 2-stroke. Start with a Non-Synthetic. This allows your Piston rings to seat to the cylinder walls. Then change your oil after 500-1000 miles. After that it's your choice whether to use synthetic or not. I would recommend a good synthetic. Hope this helps.

 

[yamariv]

Hey Nuke,

Thanks for the info, you bring up another good angle, thanks! Maybe I should just be leaving it all in and run it then?

When you say break in oil, do you mean that there are special break in additives that they add to the standard non synthetic yamalube?

I've always heard to break in a motor with dinosaur oil for sure, just wondering about the possibility of the break in additives. If that's the case, I wouldn't want to drain them out then. I'd be doing more harm than good.

 

[00-NUKE]

Hey Nuke,

Thanks for the info, you bring up another good angle, thanks! Maybe I should just be leaving it all in and run it then?

When you say break in oil, do you mean that there are special break in additives that they add to the standard non synthetic yamalube?

I've always heard to break in a motor with dinosaur oil for sure, just wondering about the possibility of the break in additives. If that's the case, I wouldn't want to drain them out then. I'd be doing more harm than good.

Not sure what you mean by "dinosaur" oil? There are no additives that I know about. They just add a cheap non-synthetic. I'd be supprised if they even use Yamalube.
If you decide to change it, I would recommend adding oil directly to the oil filter as well. These engines run purely off of oil "pressure". By filling the oil filter prior to instillation, it allows the oil pressure to ramp up faster, reducing the amount of time that required surfaces are without lubrication.

 

[yamaha1973]

Hey Nuke,

Thanks for the info, you bring up another good angle, thanks! Maybe I should just be leaving it all in and run it then?

When you say break in oil, do you mean that there are special break in additives that they add to the standard non synthetic yamalube?

I've always heard to break in a motor with dinosaur oil for sure, just wondering about the possibility of the break in additives. If that's the case, I wouldn't want to drain them out then. I'd be doing more harm than good.

Not sure what you mean by "dinosaur" oil?

I think he means non sythetic oil...

 

[yamariv]

Thanks Nuke, I'll be sure to fill the filter first, makes sense that it would pressurise the system faster that way.

As for the "Dinosaur" oil, I just meant normal oil cause it's been around since the dinosaurs. Thanks for the help.

 

[darv]

just run it with the oil it came with an change it after you have 500 miles on it, also filter you will have no problems with it, yamaha japan use's a good oil

 

[yamariv]

Update, picked up my Nytro from the dealer today. Love the look and sound of the thing, real happy! What a mean looking machine!

In speaking with the mechanic, he strongly advised to keep the original oil in it and run it till the first oil change like normal. He said he spoke to the Yamaha rep about changing the oil out (I had requested it be changed and he said he found this odd and no one had requested this before for a new sled) and the rep said that there is an actual break in oil that Yamaha puts in. Decided to trust the mechanics opinion and keep it in. Sled only had 0.1km on it so I wasn't too worried about acid build up. Lol.

 

[mike3577]

It's a yamaha ride it like you stole it!!!!!

 

[all_4_stroke]

as I understand the nytro's come filled with the 0W30 semi-synthetic yamalube. it is recomended to run this oil for the first interval or "break in" period. once you reach about 500k you can then choose to switch from the yamlube to a full synthetic such as amsoil. Sythetic oil reduces friction too much and does not allow a proper break in of the engine. Your mechanic was not bullshitting you. Any moisture will disipate the first time the engine reaches operating temp as it will basically "boil off".