• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

New Heavy Duty/High performance clutching for My Sidewinder this season

WinterWolf said:
If this is the case, what Dalton Helix do you Run then?
Click to expand...
fyi
tcat is using stm helixes , not sure if dalton and stm cuts r the same ? dalton offers a 38/32 cat helix .u might want to talk to dale about this , great guy . also when I talked with the guy at Tapp last week he highly recommend to use the 8dn or xs 825 . I personally think u need to try to cut back the spring pressure on your pro4 and see if your belt temp get cooler . last season buddies using stm clutches front and back found that the more spring tension add to his stm secondary with the ac green spring and 44/38 stm helix ran hot temp till he switched to a lighter purple spring and less tension ,which worked well and much cooler temp ,
 

I would back your secondary spring off 1 hole and check it . sounds like you are really close. if you can hold your hand on the clutch it is not too bad
 
That 38-32 helix is interesting......could probably get away from of these heavier springs? The problem for me with the TAPP is every time I try a lighter secondary spring I lose performance. The TAPP just shift so aggressively I cant get a lighter secondary spring to perform. And I don't lake ride or drag race so trail performance for me is most important and the 120-180 secondary spring is what I keep going back to. It is the same spring found in the torsional conversion kits for Cats 1100 turbo's
 
Ok guys...thanks for the replies. Think I’ll back the wrap off a notch, and see if the secondary cools a bit? Like Stain said, I think I’m very close to finding the right balance here, so I’ll give that a try.

I Appreciate all the input/replies.
 
I got to put some miles on my TAPP and STM combo. Learned a few things about tuning the TAPP clutch. I am using the DAYCO HPX5009 belt. Secondary set up with the belt 1mm above shieves. First performance with the stock-as -received TAPP clutch was disappointing. I am running a Dalton black purple spring in secondary with a 42/36 ramp I had around already. I learned the clickers do a whole lot to the tuning on my sled. Initially I was running setting 3 all the way around and my power sucked and I got terrible fuel mileage. I turned all the clickers to setting 4. The sled all of a sudden I had great arm stretching power right off the line and then kind of mellowed mid and upper range. Fuel efficiency picked up. So then I changed the clickers to 5. I noticed my power band shifted to the middle and upper range while still having great fuel efficiency. This seemed the best setting as I did not want to just spin the track off the line constantly. Next time out I will try half 4 and half 5. Belt showed no wear on almost 700 miles. No belt dust in the clutch area. I need to try to turn up the backshift properties to make the sled to my standards. The problem that became apparent was my steering. I put a Bill mohr spring in the front of my skid and turned up my rear spring to the highest I could. I have snowrtackers on my stock AC skis. But every time I put the throttle on, even very slightly, my skis lift just enough that I lose alot of my turning ability and wound up pushing the corners very often. I had to slow down to take turns, coast through them, before giving it throttle again. Very contrary to how I normal steer, under slight power as I round the curve, then throttling up and shooting off as the sled completes the turn. I am thinking of tightening the limiter strap some. Any other ideas?
 
SnowCatRider said:
I got to put some miles on my TAPP and STM combo. Learned a few things about tuning the TAPP clutch. I am using the DAYCO HPX5009 belt. Secondary set up with the belt 1mm above shieves. First performance with the stock-as -received TAPP clutch was disappointing. I am running a Dalton black purple spring in secondary with a 42/36 ramp I had around already. I learned the clickers do a whole lot to the tuning on my sled. Initially I was running setting 3 all the way around and my power sucked and I got terrible fuel mileage. I turned all the clickers to setting 4. The sled all of a sudden I had great arm stretching power right off the line and then kind of mellowed mid and upper range. Fuel efficiency picked up. So then I changed the clickers to 5. I noticed my power band shifted to the middle and upper range while still having great fuel efficiency. This seemed the best setting as I did not want to just spin the track off the line constantly. Next time out I will try half 4 and half 5. Belt showed no wear on almost 700 miles. No belt dust in the clutch area. I need to try to turn up the backshift properties to make the sled to my standards. The problem that became apparent was my steering. I put a Bill mohr spring in the front of my skid and turned up my rear spring to the highest I could. I have snowrtackers on my stock AC skis. But every time I put the throttle on, even very slightly, my skis lift just enough that I lose alot of my turning ability and wound up pushing the corners very often. I had to slow down to take turns, coast through them, before giving it throttle again. Very contrary to how I normal steer, under slight power as I round the curve, then throttling up and shooting off as the sled completes the turn. I am thinking of tightening the limiter strap some. Any other ideas?
Click to expand...
Running any tunes?
 
SnowCatRider said:
I got to put some miles on my TAPP and STM combo. Learned a few things about tuning the TAPP clutch. I am using the DAYCO HPX5009 belt. Secondary set up with the belt 1mm above shieves. First performance with the stock-as -received TAPP clutch was disappointing. I am running a Dalton black purple spring in secondary with a 42/36 ramp I had around already. I learned the clickers do a whole lot to the tuning on my sled. Initially I was running setting 3 all the way around and my power sucked and I got terrible fuel mileage. I turned all the clickers to setting 4. The sled all of a sudden I had great arm stretching power right off the line and then kind of mellowed mid and upper range. Fuel efficiency picked up. So then I changed the clickers to 5. I noticed my power band shifted to the middle and upper range while still having great fuel efficiency. This seemed the best setting as I did not want to just spin the track off the line constantly. Next time out I will try half 4 and half 5. Belt showed no wear on almost 700 miles. No belt dust in the clutch area. I need to try to turn up the backshift properties to make the sled to my standards. The problem that became apparent was my steering. I put a Bill mohr spring in the front of my skid and turned up my rear spring to the highest I could. I have snowrtackers on my stock AC skis. But every time I put the throttle on, even very slightly, my skis lift just enough that I lose alot of my turning ability and wound up pushing the corners very often. I had to slow down to take turns, coast through them, before giving it throttle again. Very contrary to how I normal steer, under slight power as I round the curve, then throttling up and shooting off as the sled completes the turn. I am thinking of tightening the limiter strap some. Any other ideas?
Click to expand...

This is very interesting. I bet the mix of 4 and 5 on the clickers will be perfect. Let us know if you like the 4 and 5 combo with the clickers.?
 
8DN on the TAPP/PRO4 combo. This is where the belt wants to ride with the deflection set properly. From the 825 to the 8DN the adjuster is exactly 2 turns difference.
010.JPG
 
My sled is a new 2018 xf9000 153. I am running 21/41 gears. I have Max Spool 16 with CAI, MAP sensor and stock muffler. Factory set up TAPP primary and STM secondary ( which looks identical to the pro 4 I'm seeing posted BTW.) I'm wondering if I was to run a 42/32 helix would that allow faster backshifts? I'm also contemplating changing my gearing to a 22/41. That was what I was originally going to run but the new chain and new gears made it too tight t physically put it on, so I got a 21 gear to wear the chain in some and give me some stretch to get the 22 gear on now. Any ideas?
 
ISLANDRACING said:
8DN on the TAPP/PRO4 combo. This is where the belt wants to ride with the deflection set properly. From the 825 to the 8DN the adjuster is exactly 2 turns difference.View attachment 152572
Click to expand...

This is interesting. I believe the 8DN is 44.625" long by 1.375" wide. The XS825 is 44.375" long by 1.406" wide. So, the 8DN is longer (by 0.25") and narrower (by 0.03") than the XS825.

The service manual notes that the belt outside circumference should be 44.0" - 44.3." If so, that makes the 8DN 0.325" longer than max spec. The XS825 would be 0.075" longer than max spec.

The service manual also states that belt position should be between 1.0 mm above to 1.0 mm below the edge of the sheave.

I'm guessing the additional length and slightly narrower body of the 8DN lets it sit a little higher in the secondary compared to the XS825. If we're both within spec (1.0 mm above or below top of sheave), then there shouldn't be a problem, right? Does sitting higher or lower give any advantages or disadvantages? I've read on here of guys having trouble with shifting into reverse when the belt sits too high. Thanks.
 
Measure with straight edge and ruler for deflection, setting higher or lower doesn’t make a difference when you engage it, belts are different lengths by a little. To tight no reverse.
 
Crossfire12 said:
Measure with straight edge and ruler for deflection, setting higher or lower doesn’t make a difference when you engage it, belts are different lengths by a little. To tight no reverse.
Click to expand...

What is the spec for this measurement? Unless I'm not seeing it, the service manual doesn't say to adjust belt position with this method. To my knowledge the service manual only provides the "1.0 mm above or below sheave" spec to adjust belt position. Thanks.
 
Since the 8dn is longer/narrower, it will naturally sit lower in the rear clutch. To adjust belt deflection you have to add/subtract washers on the bolt that holds the clutch to the jackshaft.

In your case with the 8dn, you have to add 1 or 2 washers to the bolt to raise the belt up in the sheaves.
 
SnowCatRider said:
I got to put some miles on my TAPP and STM combo. Learned a few things about tuning the TAPP clutch. I am using the DAYCO HPX5009 belt. Secondary set up with the belt 1mm above shieves. First performance with the stock-as -received TAPP clutch was disappointing. I am running a Dalton black purple spring in secondary with a 42/36 ramp I had around already. I learned the clickers do a whole lot to the tuning on my sled. Initially I was running setting 3 all the way around and my power sucked and I got terrible fuel mileage. I turned all the clickers to setting 4. The sled all of a sudden I had great arm stretching power right off the line and then kind of mellowed mid and upper range. Fuel efficiency picked up. So then I changed the clickers to 5. I noticed my power band shifted to the middle and upper range while still having great fuel efficiency. This seemed the best setting as I did not want to just spin the track off the line constantly. Next time out I will try half 4 and half 5. Belt showed no wear on almost 700 miles. No belt dust in the clutch area. I need to try to turn up the backshift properties to make the sled to my standards. The problem that became apparent was my steering. I put a Bill mohr spring in the front of my skid and turned up my rear spring to the highest I could. I have snowrtackers on my stock AC skis. But every time I put the throttle on, even very slightly, my skis lift just enough that I lose alot of my turning ability and wound up pushing the corners very often. I had to slow down to take turns, coast through them, before giving it throttle again. Very contrary to how I normal steer, under slight power as I round the curve, then throttling up and shooting off as the sled completes the turn. I am thinking of tightening the limiter strap some. Any other ideas?
Click to expand...
If your straps are still in stock position,pull them down a hole,and try it again. If it gets better bite,than one more should do it.But it may effect your ride some,in a bad way,as you have just lost front shock travel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top