kill3rBacon
Veteran
bought an 05 rx-1er . looked it over .. ran good idled great sounded crisp and responsive .
first ride .... holeshots aplenty. lifts skis at will with a 350lb rider layed up over the handlebars. the sled rips...... first liter sled i ever rode. 20 min later its smoking and whatnot ....previous owner had powerwashed it so we just figured ride more and help the #*$&@ burn off. ..... ok well that werked sorta.after poking around we decide again we just havent burned it all off yet. continue to dangle skis with disregard to snow and underlying turf (160 someodd studs).
low oil light .after 40 min of riding. just purchased a few weeks prior
takrs a qt to fill. get back to the garage and see a huge mess coming outunder the sled ..start looking for leaks and saw nadda,,, go to remove the airbox and bam there it is .... we had found the qt of oil we thought the engine ate .so we clean it,.change the oil (smelled like gas),cleaned carbs,fuel pumps,fixed a chaincase/reverse issue(later on that),synced the carbs, set pilots 2 1/4 turns ,retorqued many loose things around the front end including secondary, reset track tension.checked for oil after sycing.i held the back of it up and devon spent a few minutes with track speedsup to 90 on the speedo.checked plugs looked spectacular for the lil burn in,rechecked the air box and saw a slight bit of moisture and collected oil vapor drops ... ok looks normal to me . and were off
2nd ride.
get it to the field and start to hammer ... the track tension and carb work showed immediate improvements.. i had to relearn what crisp response is lol .. its amazing ...30 - 40 min into the mayhem .low oil light ! wtf ...box is filled again .almost ready to sell it .
crancase pressure of this magnatude makes me worry and my wallet cower in fear.
ok now to chaincase lol
some clown didnt like loctite.we found the head of the 2ndary shaft bolt sticking out of the chaincase ....so any insight is helpful. and will be doin a leakdown just to see what that says .
but what im hoping for is something stupid that i can repair.im thinkin rings or burned slug .... but this thing flat out hauls the mail. no deadspots not weak anywhere on the tach its just strong ... you know your on a fast one ill say that .. it tells you real fast who your dealin with.
first ride .... holeshots aplenty. lifts skis at will with a 350lb rider layed up over the handlebars. the sled rips...... first liter sled i ever rode. 20 min later its smoking and whatnot ....previous owner had powerwashed it so we just figured ride more and help the #*$&@ burn off. ..... ok well that werked sorta.after poking around we decide again we just havent burned it all off yet. continue to dangle skis with disregard to snow and underlying turf (160 someodd studs).
low oil light .after 40 min of riding. just purchased a few weeks prior
takrs a qt to fill. get back to the garage and see a huge mess coming outunder the sled ..start looking for leaks and saw nadda,,, go to remove the airbox and bam there it is .... we had found the qt of oil we thought the engine ate .so we clean it,.change the oil (smelled like gas),cleaned carbs,fuel pumps,fixed a chaincase/reverse issue(later on that),synced the carbs, set pilots 2 1/4 turns ,retorqued many loose things around the front end including secondary, reset track tension.checked for oil after sycing.i held the back of it up and devon spent a few minutes with track speedsup to 90 on the speedo.checked plugs looked spectacular for the lil burn in,rechecked the air box and saw a slight bit of moisture and collected oil vapor drops ... ok looks normal to me . and were off
2nd ride.
get it to the field and start to hammer ... the track tension and carb work showed immediate improvements.. i had to relearn what crisp response is lol .. its amazing ...30 - 40 min into the mayhem .low oil light ! wtf ...box is filled again .almost ready to sell it .
crancase pressure of this magnatude makes me worry and my wallet cower in fear.
ok now to chaincase lol
some clown didnt like loctite.we found the head of the 2ndary shaft bolt sticking out of the chaincase ....so any insight is helpful. and will be doin a leakdown just to see what that says .
but what im hoping for is something stupid that i can repair.im thinkin rings or burned slug .... but this thing flat out hauls the mail. no deadspots not weak anywhere on the tach its just strong ... you know your on a fast one ill say that .. it tells you real fast who your dealin with.
kill3rBacon
Veteran
and all of what we did stopped the backfire when it was shut off stopped the 2000 ish rpm burble miss thingie it did ..
and the snowflap hates us !!!!!!
and the snowflap hates us !!!!!!
kill3rBacon
Veteran
btw thanks for reading it i know its long but i wanted to be clear...
-devon
-devon
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2011 apex xtx
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have you checked the pcv valve (or whatever yamaha calls it)?
someone else might know a bit more but that would be my 1st guess unless you are over filling it.
as to the chaincase, some one changed the track and forgot to use locktite on the bolt or did not get all the oil off of the threads. you need to get a new cover and put that bolt in on clean dry threads with red locktite.
curious to see what the engine gurus think on the oil issue.
someone else might know a bit more but that would be my 1st guess unless you are over filling it.
as to the chaincase, some one changed the track and forgot to use locktite on the bolt or did not get all the oil off of the threads. you need to get a new cover and put that bolt in on clean dry threads with red locktite.
curious to see what the engine gurus think on the oil issue.
terret725
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
u dont necessarily need a new chaincase cover. i had it happen on my 97 vmax and i used a caraige bolt that i had ground pretty flat to like 3/32ths thick and then some gasket maker and a washer and lock nut on the out side and it didnt leak for the 2 years i had it like that. its a cheep fix. not the best but alot cheeper then a new chaincase cover.
kill3rBacon
Veteran
the chaincase issue was resolved by welding the hole in the case and doing it correctly lol.
and oil level was checked and maintained as specified in the tech manual.
one more tid bit... we tried runnin it with the oil level at e on the dipstick (not screwed in) with the same result.... we been lurkin and searchin this site since we got it. great info to be sorted through .
and oil level was checked and maintained as specified in the tech manual.
one more tid bit... we tried runnin it with the oil level at e on the dipstick (not screwed in) with the same result.... we been lurkin and searchin this site since we got it. great info to be sorted through .
kinger
VIP Member
I dont see how it would have that much leakdown and have such amazing zip.
Pull the crank case hose off and go through the system all the way too the air box and see if you see anything going on there. If its normal get a leakdown done asap.
You sound like you know your way around a engine does it appear that someone was in there before? Maybe it was a turbo or SC and they guy put it back to stock without having to repair the engine?
Pull the crank case hose off and go through the system all the way too the air box and see if you see anything going on there. If its normal get a leakdown done asap.
You sound like you know your way around a engine does it appear that someone was in there before? Maybe it was a turbo or SC and they guy put it back to stock without having to repair the engine?
kill3rBacon
Veteran
theres lots of evidence of "tampering". previous owner only admits to a filter kit and that he blew an oil line off .. thats why he had to power wash the tub and engine bay before selling it.
weve had to fix many issues of the tampering including the cahincase ordeal .
as far as the evac system, hoses are in good shape and flow oil freely as well as the lil black box ! ive read mention of anoter pcv like device or a filter that can freeze or clog .. any insight on that ?
and ys im no stranger to goin fast and breaking things lol .
weve had to fix many issues of the tampering including the cahincase ordeal .
as far as the evac system, hoses are in good shape and flow oil freely as well as the lil black box ! ive read mention of anoter pcv like device or a filter that can freeze or clog .. any insight on that ?
and ys im no stranger to goin fast and breaking things lol .
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
There should be a small "foam filter" inside the airbox right on top of the breather hose connection to the AirBox. Is that still in place?
I don't think that is your problem but it may be contributing a bit.
What weight Oil are you using?
I don't think that is your problem but it may be contributing a bit.
What weight Oil are you using?
kill3rBacon
Veteran
len. there is nothingin the airbox cept the nipple for the hose that routes into the actual particle filter / steel screen area.
ill look in the parts finder a bit .
as far as oil its yamalube semi syn 0-30
ill look in the parts finder a bit .
as far as oil its yamalube semi syn 0-30
kill3rBacon
Veteran
we plumbed a catchcan to retireive the crap so coould measure fluid loss vs. time .
plus we just wanna ride . and zakk bought a new xtx today so we been out riding and drag racing ... the xtx is fast . with the big guy on it t still dont hook but runs right with the 2ton .!
plus we just wanna ride . and zakk bought a new xtx today so we been out riding and drag racing ... the xtx is fast . with the big guy on it t still dont hook but runs right with the 2ton .!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
When you add oil, are you adding it to the tank or directly into the engine? The Tank would be the right answer.
I assume you have the chain-case question answered. I was having a bit of trouble understanding what bolt came out of the end of the Secondary Shaft. But I am assuming you are talking about the Drive Shaft bolt that holds the reverse gear on. Is this correct?
Did you do a compression check yet?
I assume you have the chain-case question answered. I was having a bit of trouble understanding what bolt came out of the end of the Secondary Shaft. But I am assuming you are talking about the Drive Shaft bolt that holds the reverse gear on. Is this correct?
Did you do a compression check yet?
kill3rBacon
Veteran
your right about the spring loaded bolt holding reverse gear ....
we borrowed a bore scope today .... a nice lit up one with awsome lcd screen. well in cyl # 1 we found some metal missing from the top of the bore . ( where the head and block meet ) no.2 is ok , no.3 is totalled same #*$&@ as no.1 but worse ) . no.4 is flawless
its safe to say its with all combined damage its down a cyl ... prolly 25 h.p down. and still runnin and outrunnin the xtx ...
yeah its pretty much toasted ... so it was either boosted on the squeeze or the clown never bothered with a rejet when he put the home made ecp style filter kit he made . and flat ran it out lean and killed it cleaned it and sold it .
tomarrow were calling the place that can repair rebore and re nikasil the block
we borrowed a bore scope today .... a nice lit up one with awsome lcd screen. well in cyl # 1 we found some metal missing from the top of the bore . ( where the head and block meet ) no.2 is ok , no.3 is totalled same #*$&@ as no.1 but worse ) . no.4 is flawless
its safe to say its with all combined damage its down a cyl ... prolly 25 h.p down. and still runnin and outrunnin the xtx ...
yeah its pretty much toasted ... so it was either boosted on the squeeze or the clown never bothered with a rejet when he put the home made ecp style filter kit he made . and flat ran it out lean and killed it cleaned it and sold it .
tomarrow were calling the place that can repair rebore and re nikasil the block
kinger
VIP Member
Oh no! That stinks man. Miliienium technologies are great guys to work with for plating. It runs around $600 to strip it and re do it. Rings are around a $100 for the set. Should be good to go after that if you can do the labor yourself.
ny01srx
Veteran
who ever owned it ran nitrous i bet the second ring down is stuck did it twice threw nitrous set up in corner i just want to ride good luck
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