new nytro, lots of ski lift

[sleddingfarmer]

I was just curious what some of you guys were doing to your nytros to get the ski lift under control. Its alot of fun yes but its really slowing me down on the trails.
thanks

 

[08nytrofx]

yea you got that right i'm only light and it happens to me and it dont help the darting at all either some are saying different skis but thats not gonna keep the front end down

 

[grenade6]

i know on my xtx there is an adjustment for weight transfer but im not sure if all the nytros do.

 

[08nytrofx]

i know on my xtx there is an adjustment for weight transfer but im not sure if all the nytros do.

where the adjustment at?

 

[Muffin]

If you look near the rear shock there are a pair of nuts. These nuts control the transfer rods. Loosen the each top nut (lock nut) and then adjust the bottom nut. Moving the nuts up, toward the seat, will lessen tranfer and help keep the skis down. Adjusting down, toward the ground will give more transfer and promote wheelies. There are lines on the shaft. Make sure to adjust both nuts equally. If you adjust the nuts to far up you will see a red painted band. DO NOT GO INTO THE RED. meaning no red should show. I think there are only three lines. Half a line makes a HUGE different so make small adjustaments. I think I am running about a line and a half from the top. All of this is in the owners manual. Hope this helps.

Muffin

 

[gormleyflyer2002]

revmuffin is talking about XTX....wont help your 08.

quick fix. ... lower front of skid 2 holes and rear strap one hole. add ulmer trnafer locks.

proper fix, revalve both rear shocks and leave rear strap down one hole from stock.

the rear most shock has next to zero slow speed damping and is the cause of your wheeliebogger problem.

 

[Arnold08]

gormleyflyer2002 is right the limmiter straps make all the difference in the world i would definetly pull the front one down at least

 

[scottydog1]

Thats all I did and it helped incredibly (1 hole down on the front). Don't get me wrong it will still wheelie, but it not out of control like it was stock. I didn't touch my rear strap and I like it very much the way it is. Heck if I can run with an 800r from start to finish in a drag. I figure my transfer and clickers are perfect. We went apporx 4 miles side by side with the edge to the r by approx 1 foot from the tip of his ski to the tip of my ski. All I needed was approx 1/4 mile an hour more and I would have won. Oh I didn't say we hit on the launch and both of us went to the outside of the trail w/ neither of us letting off the flipper. Way too much pride!!!! AAAHHHH YAAAAA!!!

 

[nate007]

For those of you who havent, please update your site profiles to include your location(s) per site rules.
Thank You
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[Traildale]

This sld can be made to handle any way you want.

Changing the transfer blocks at the rear of the suspension (like to the Hauck ones) and pulling the front limiter strap in by 1 or 2 holes will dramatically change the ski lift.

My current setup: Limiter strap pulled in two holes. Hauck transfer blocks on the #2 setting. I can now do a full throttle start with with virtually NO ski lift and minimal track spin. In corners, I can nail the throttle and the skis stay planted and it goes exactly where its pointed. Stock, it lifted the skis and and headed for the trees in every corner.

Also have Stud Boy Duece carbides. Excellent hold in the the corners, and only a little bit of darting in certain snow conditions, but nothing of concern.

 

[Bigblue1]

Made Suspension Changes Just Curious About Travel

I have picked up many tips from many people on this forum regarding suspension set up. While it is true that pulling down the strap front and back or one over the other it seems to me that it just sucks the whole suspension down. Yes it turns flatter and handles better somewhat but it rides tight. I have an FX and this year I am trying Curve XS skis, machining the upper ball joints, and some ulmer blocks beginning with the stock strap set up and going from there. I just feel the suspension should travel its full stoke length. My RX-1 is dialed in and works great on studders, mid sized bumps, and flat out rails. i WILL get this thing dialed in because now its a challenge.

 

[Kråkan]

I have the same idea, Why pull the limiter strap when all it does is make your sled ride lower. Why have a sled with alot of travel and then limit the travel?

 

[Alatalo]

My best proposal would be to live with the ski lift and learn how to use it to your advantage. I am not going to be rude and say that you bought the wrong sled for your type of riding , but all rider forward, stand up style, snocross wannabee sleds offer more ski lift - in straight lines as well as out of corners. Part because of their high center of gravity, part because of their relatively uncoupled suspension design. And this is not a design flaw - this is simply something you want from a snocross sled! Trying to rail around a corner in a perfect formula car style radius does not work with these sleds. Instead, try to adapt to a riding style where you square the corner off, kind of in a "stop, point and shoot" way, basically to minimize the time you are actually turning the sled. Then you will be rewarded!

If you can not live with the ski lift (after all, you did not listen to the salesman and now you are trying to make a snocross wannabee sled corner on perfectly groomed trails...), then my second best proposal would be to increase the rear-to-front coupling of the rear suspension by installing adjustable transfer blocks. There are loads of options out there if you want to build your own and you can also buy kits from Ulmer and Hauck.

Regarding limiter straps - for sure - you can also limit the weight transfer by shortening the limiter straps. But I am with Kråkan on this one. Shortening the limiter strap will also decrease your suspension travel. Why the hell would you buy a sled with a lot of suspension travel and then give some of the suspension travel away...?

 

[sleddingfarmer]

I agree, i knew what i was getting myself into when i bought this sled. I dont want this thing to corner completely flat with no weight transfer, I just want to be able to get on the throttle a little while going around a nice sweeper without sliding towards the trees.
I think tightening the front limiter strap one hole would probably help alot.

 

[gormleyflyer2002]

he just wishes he had groomed trails