New tech tip from dealer-track tension!!!!

[nate007]

Hey folks! I talked to my Yammi dealer today about my leaky shock, and the fact that I had a wear mark on the bottom shock eye on my '06 GT. He told me that the track tension may have played a factor in the wear, but he told me that to check for proper track tension you ahould do the following:

Using a fish scale, you should hook the scale into the holes on the track, and it should take 22lbs. of force to move the track 1". I asked if there was to be a certain ammount of droop when the suspension is off the ground, and he said that the tension method is how Yammi wants it!??

Just though I'd relay the tip!! Any feedback, or conficting info. here??

I have planned on adding the wheel kit to the shock, but according to him, if the track is adjusted right, there should be no problem.

Nate

 

[n2oiroc]

what yamaha recommends and whats right are 2 different things.

 

[nate007]

I do agree, but they also said that Hyfax wear will be worse if the track is too loose.
My jury is still out on that one...

 

[leaddog]

I also had much less track rub with it running a little loose. Never had my hyfax stick anymore either.

 

[n2oiroc]

some people interpret things differently. loose to someone isnt loose to another. i see no point in running 3-4" of sag in a track. i also dont feel the need to run it at 1" with 22# of pull either. i usually run 1" of sag, no weight. yamaha's are the only ones that have trouble at that. i really dont care for swapping out extroverts on a new sled to keep the hifax on and not rachet like a mofo, but if thats what i have to do, then ill do it!

 

[**sj**]

at least an inch with no weight

 

[Len Todd]

Loose as you can, w/o ratcheting. For me that is about 1 1/2" with 22lbs hanging off the track

 

[leaddog]

Yep

And thanks again sj for the skis....they look great. Next time I'll make sure you include snow with the deal. Lets plan to get together and ride.

 

[SRSchang]

I replaced the hifax & adjusted the track to Yamaha specs just before a trip to St. Zenon last year. The hifax lasted 8 miles before they were worn through. We had to stop 4 times to kick the track free from the hifax as they melted while riding & froze to the track when I stopped. Luckily we were able to make it back to Real Masse, load it on the trailer, & haul it to the nearest dealer for a $109 hifax replacement.

I have not been able to find a tension adjustment that stops the ratcheting & will allow the hifax to wear normally. I did install the SLP wear pads last year, & can now stop the ratcheting with about 1" of sag without pulling on the track

It's a fine line between hifax wear & ratcheting with my Attak.

Scott

 

[n2oiroc]

I replaced the hifax & adjusted the track to Yamaha specs just before a trip to St. Zenon last year. The hifax lasted 8 miles before they were worn through. We had to stop 4 times to kick the track free from the hifax as they melted while riding & froze to the track when I stopped. Luckily we were able to make it back to Real Masse, load it on the trailer, & haul it to the nearest dealer for a $109 hifax replacement.

I have not been able to find a tension adjustment that stops the ratcheting & will allow the hifax to wear normally. I did install the SLP wear pads last year, & can now stop the ratcheting with about 1" of sag without pulling on the track

It's a fine line between hifax wear & ratcheting with my Attak.

Scott

thats why i installed extroverts this year. i wasnt even studded last year and i could barely keep it from racheting. i knew it wouldnt have a chance with 162 studs. $99 for a pair of ski doo extroverts and no more problems!

 

[**sj**]

Yep

And thanks again sj for the skis....they look great. Next time I'll make sure you include snow with the deal. Lets plan to get together and ride.

You bet Tom .. I've never ridden in Ontario and I'm ready ! (please snow !)

As to ratcheting and burning hyfax....there are a few factors..first if your limiter strap is too low the rail end causes an unatural angle for the track to run with the rail cap hitting the clips and bare rubber excessive heat builds and carries through....
add to that the closed windows ...rubber against plastic builds heat bigtime....
it is my opinion to do the following (unless you wanted to roll your chaincase)
pull your limiter to at least one tighter than stock..this allows the track to "curve" around the drivers more completely to help stop ratcheting and you'll have far less pressure on the track .
also the rail end cap wont hit the clip and rubber up front carrying heat on through..
and if you season your slides properly it helps tremendously especially if you do what I have, just fully punched and clipped the track and I feel they should never have come closed at all...

 

[RTX DUDE]

slide wear

I ran 1000 miles last year with 1/2 wear on slides. i wasn't happy, but Oh, well. I bought graphite impregnated and ran 160 miles on bad trails and ice and ruined. There is something to running too loose!!!!!!!!! For sure. 3 " of sag with premature wear. I'm still new to yammi so i will work it out. Hopefully or you guys will give us the answers

 

[xcsp]

Yamaha spec is "tight"

I'm not a believer in the track tension spec Yamaha lists in the manual as it is too tight for my taste.

Seem to have more track rubbing issues with it set tight. I had my track adjusted where I wanted it, and after the dealer had the skid out for some warr. work, they adjusted the track tight-had a light rub mark all the way around on the inside of the track-wasn't there when I dropped it off!

Installed the Ulmer Anti-Rub kit and adjusted the track to "my" spec and all set to go when the snow comes!

 

[sledhead317]

I always ran my tracks loser than yamaha spec about half inch over no problems ever.The slides last a lot longer just check mine from last year 1600 miles on slides and look like new.Ihave a 2006 apex gt and also no track rubbing on the shock.

 

[ReX]

I get a kick out of these "8 mile hyfax shot posts".

If you're wearing hyfax out that quickly you're not treating the sled right, not breaking in the hyfax right, riding with no snow or there's something very wrong with your sled.

I put 10,000 km on the first set of hyfax on my 05 RX-1. I set the track to spec every time I checked it and ran stock idlers (many sets...). The hyfax wouldn't have needed changing then if the screw holding them in place hadn't fatigued and snapped.

BTW, for most 2005/2006/2007 Yamaha's spec is not 1" with 22 lbs. For most Yamaha's these days it is 1.38" with 22 lbs. Check section 8 of your owners manual.

I have also ridden in some of the worse, almost non-lube conditions and when I notice the hyfax starting to grab I either dip into some snow or drag my feat a little to cool the slides down a little.

I agree Yamaha's spec is on the tight side and you can run the track considerably looser, but it doesn't kill the sled running it to spec.

I also agree that the hyfax will wear quickly and heat up a lot during breakin, but it's up to you to make sure you don't burn them up completely during the breakin.

Here's all I and the guys I ride with do to keep our stock hyfax in shape:
- Do whatever it takes to keep the hyfax from melting (much) especially until they are well broken in (few hundred miles). This includes as required dipping into deeper snow, slowing down, dragging heals a little, etc. Once they are well broken in they run much, much cooler and you can for the most part forget about them and just ride. Also if they are starting to heat up & grab - don't stop, instead slow down and get some snow on them.
- Install the idler wheels so they are at the lowest position (properly installed). There is a lot of slop in the mounting holes and if they are tightened up too high they won't support the weight properly.
- Make sure the idlers are in good shape.
- Don't change the hyfax until they are worn right down to the wear line.

That's it. Keep in mind, once the hyfax start to melt if you keep hammering on it the hyfax is going to disappear very quickly.

Personally I don't believe track tension has much to do with shock wear. The tension in the track when your accelerating hard is more significant than the initial tension adjustment. Its this that pulls the track into contact with the shock at the top. If your studs are tightened enough the shock wear is slow enough that it's not a big problem (but it is annoying) regardless of track tension.