Newbie xtx questions

[4strokes]

You are right, single keel skis by yamaha are not great. For deep snow the dual keel skis (Tuner I / II) are just ok, but they can work great (on trail) with the right setup if you don't have an extra $400 burning a hole in your pocket for new skis...

I would be interested to see tuners work, I have my takeoffs from my winder. ran them 50 mi on it, then my nytro, then my buddies procross. talk about not being able to turn, downright dangerous and shocking to have them come on the most powerfull snowmobile ever made. From years of reading here, I had pilots ready to bolt on, totally transformed the machine. put precisions on the procross and that thing is a weapon now, as is my nytro with gen 1.

 

[YammieDave]

We may be talking about different things.

On this thread, several posts down, grizz has pics of enclosed tunnels and protectors.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/tunnel-ice-anyone-ever-figure-out-a-way-to-stop-it.127104/

 

[Smz]

 

[Smz]

These pics are under tunnel thawed out, side view under exhaust left side, under tunnel with ice, Simmons gen 2.
Didn’t realize that much ice could form.
Next I would like to try shimming skis, have read a fair amount in here about that. Does the same apply with these particular ones?
I have about two inches of play in handlebar tip. Som play is in ski bushings, some in outer tie ends, and apparently in inners. Also seems to bind at one spot turning left only.

 

[4strokes]

These pics are under tunnel thawed out, side view under exhaust left side, under tunnel with ice, Simmons gen 2.
Didn’t realize that much ice could form.
Next I would like to try shimming skis, have read a fair amount in here about that. Does the same apply with these particular ones?
I have about two inches of play in handlebar tip. Som play is in ski bushings, some in outer tie ends, and apparently in inners. Also seems to bind at one spot turning left only.

I tossed my protectors years ago, nearly no ice since. those gen 2s are going to eat bushings, crack your spindles and bend your subframe. I had a love/hate with some $500 gen 3s for a few years. pricey carbides that are too flat with very exposed leading edge that loves rr tracks and sometimes would jam a rock and carry it with me miles until beating it out of the huge keel. bent back to gen 1s and am happy. Have been trying to keep my eye out for local used precisions. The gen 1s also have a way too flat carbide, but I extended them. the precisions have an arch too them which cure the leading edge problem.

 

[Smz]

Discovered that much of the steering play is in arm pivot assembly. From oem micro it looks as though there are two bearings along with collar that pivot bolt goes through. Is there an updated or better system to go with than stock?

 

[4strokes]

Discovered that much of the steering play is in arm pivot assembly. From oem micro it looks as though there are two bearings along with collar that pivot bolt goes through. Is there an updated or better system to go with than stock?

Mine has never been apart and is tight, 24k mi. unless it has been wrecked, doesn't make sense to me. of course, again, those gen 2s have to be brutal and add an inch to your arms every ride if they are anything like the gen 3s. the ski bushings are the problem on mine. they should have made the spindle wider. But no different than other brands, maybe just the weight? I am sure an aggressive ski doesn't help wear. Phazers had plastic pivot parts that would crush from impacts and get super sloppy with little use.

 

[Smz]

Hit a bank last night and rolled sled on its side. It has four stroke solutions rollover valve. I didn’t have either tether switch attached. It ran on its side for about five seconds until I turned it off. Once I got it upright I had to push rollover button to start it. I drove it about 30 seconds and shut it off. It seemed fine, is there anything I should check before starting again?

 

[Hooray!]

I would be interested to see tuners work, I have my takeoffs from my winder. ran them 50 mi on it, then my nytro, then my buddies procross. talk about not being able to turn, downright dangerous and shocking to have them come on the most powerfull snowmobile ever made. From years of reading here, I had pilots ready to bolt on, totally transformed the machine. put precisions on the procross and that thing is a weapon now, as is my nytro with gen 1.

My Tuner II/Bergstrom setup work great on any trail I have ridden... Not great in deep snow as they have little float... But entering a corner hot, little brake, blip throttle, lean in and weight inside then outside ski and she rails right up my line to next move... Likely having 24" of carbide (8" at three angles) is why plus the 3/8" deeper keel w the skit savers. Totally predictable.

 

[Hooray!]

These pics are under tunnel thawed out, side view under exhaust left side, under tunnel with ice, Simmons gen 2.
Didn’t realize that much ice could form.
Next I would like to try shimming skis, have read a fair amount in here about that. Does the same apply with these particular ones?
I have about two inches of play in handlebar tip. Som play is in ski bushings, some in outer tie ends, and apparently in inners. Also seems to bind at one spot turning left only.

SB has a steering shim and tighter bolt, new steering ball joints, combined removed all play. I have maybe 1/4" play now before things move.

 

[Smz]

SB has a steering shim and tighter bolt, new steering ball joints, combined removed all play. I have maybe 1/4" play now before things move.

Thought the play was in my pivot bolt bearings. Turns out the pivot bolt was a bit lose and has hollowed out the top steel bracket about .07 and the bottom steel bracket about .04”. Hoping I can put a bushing the thickness of the brackets in each end to tighten up. Seems like the center collar should have been a bit longer than the pivot arm body so it will “clamp” it between. Discovered this late last night so I will have to look at it again this am to see if I am overthinking it.
Had a few strong words for some of the plastic pins and Phillips screws that hold on shrouds! All the tie rod ends seem to be tight. Ski bushings are still an issue. I think i am going to try the close out xtx c&a skis. I can always swap them with the 6.9 pilots off my renegade backcountry.

 

[Hooray!]

Thought the play was in my pivot bolt bearings. Turns out the pivot bolt was a bit lose and has hollowed out the top steel bracket about .07 and the bottom steel bracket about .04”. Hoping I can put a bushing the thickness of the brackets in each end to tighten up. Seems like the center collar should have been a bit longer than the pivot arm body so it will “clamp” it between. Discovered this late last night so I will have to look at it again this am to see if I am overthinking it.
Had a few strong words for some of the plastic pins and Phillips screws that hold on shrouds! All the tie rod ends seem to be tight. Ski bushings are still an issue. I think i am going to try the close out xtx c&a skis. I can always swap them with the 6.9 pilots off my renegade backcountry.

There is a thread here with a guy that had the same ovalized pivot hole and built it up w some weld, re-drilled back to spec and worked. I feared same on mine but pivot was good, tight, added the SB washer / shim under pivot nut, the SB steering pin / bolts (bolt shank as wide as threads), new ball joints, skis, rubbers, Oilite bushings, spindles, all fresh and etc now front end is super tight.

 

[Smz]

Pivot arm fixed. Did the grizztracks relocate, wow what a difference. Did have trouble with the throttle cable. I had a hard time getting it located correctly so that it wouldn’t affect idle speed when turning hard left. Had to slide center handlebar shroud to the right to make it work. Then I rode it about five miles and the tors kicked in. Could not for the life of me figure out why until I looked at threaded adjuster on carb end and realized it had moved out about a quarter inch which wouldn’t let it back to normal idle. Apparently locknut was not tight but seemed awfully coincidental. Not real comfortable with things being that close to binding, not sure if there is a simple short extension?
Also previous owner put tether in middle of hbar shroud along with it having rollover tether. I assume I could remove hbar tether to simplify things? Factory kill switch is broke off, anyone have a trick for getting out the piece left down in assembly?
Thanks again to all who contribute to this forum, and especially for the relocate. Am starting to like this Nytro even though this might propel me to trying sidewinder or what Yamaha comes with for 2020.
Seems the more posts I read, that the diehard Nytro guys from years ago have moved on to newer sleds?
Happy snowmobiling, we finally have snow in sc mn!

 

[Smz]

Forgot, another question! Previous owner put new warmers and ruffian grips on. Don’t seem to get very warm, but they are attached directly to handlebar. On all my doos there was cork between. Wouldn’t this also be needed on Yamaha? But then I wonder if grip will stretch over?

 

[Smz]

Been reading quite a bit about handwarmer frustrations. Assuming it is true that Yamaha uses a pulse width modulation system for control of warmers, there should be a simple fix.
What is needed is a way for the supply to warmers to control a part that supplies power to handwarmers directly from battery. Think of it as same way a switch runs a relay to switch on a high current bulb. The relay does the work instead of switch.
In this case, a common and cheap part such as a 2n3055 transistor can be easily made into a solid state relay. Being pulse width mod is used, the transistor is either totally on or off, which won’t heat up the 2n3055.
Actually mite be better to use a 2n2955. Collector is hooked to battery 12, emitter to handwarmer element, base is fed through resistor from handwarmer sled supply.
This could be used with any snowmobile setup, but if it isn’t pulse width, it would be variable voltage, which will require a little different circuit setup.
I need to do this to my Nytro if isolating elements from bars doesn’t do it.