Anybody with a CNC want to make something similar to these for the Apex/Nytro injectors ??? I would like to have one with just a nitrous port since I already have an aftermarket fuel controller on my boosted Apex. I would let the aftermarket fuel controller (BoonDocker/Dobeck/Power Commander) add the extra fuel needed, through the factory injectors, when the nitrous is activated. I'll bet there is money to made here for a guy that's willing to make an effort. Although I'm not sure if it's possible to work around the patent infringement thing.
The NOSzle is a 3–piece billet aluminum design which is precision machined to channel additional fuel and Nitrous while housing your existing fuel injector. For a high performance EFI motor, the NOSzle is perfect in form and function.
Features:
Precision CNC Machined
Allows Precise Fuel/Nitrous Distribution
Eliminates Fuel Puddling
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kinger
VIP Member
That thing fricken rules!!
Blown14psi
Pro
Wouldn't it be easier to buy dry nozzles and drill and tap the throttlebodies for them? They are cheap and are readily available. Good idea though.
http://www.holley.com/13500NOS.asp
or
http://www.holley.com/13600NOS.asp
http://www.holley.com/13500NOS.asp
or
http://www.holley.com/13600NOS.asp
kinger
VIP Member
What is easier about removing the throttle bodies, drilling, and tapping, leaving them marred for life if you ever change your mind, then re- installing vs popping out your injectors and replacing with these?
Hammer what vehicals do they make those for?
Hammer what vehicals do they make those for?
AIRWOLF
Guest
SWEET i'LL TAKE 3 SETS OF 4
I could. But I do not want too make permanent changes to the throttle bodies or manifolds. I'm already running a dry nozzle like the one you posted the link to above. It's in the charge air tube just before the intercooler core. My original intent was to cool the intake charge by cooling the intercooler core with a small 5-shot from a 10oz Sneeky Pete bottle concealed under the hood. I increased to a 10-shot and then to a 15-shot. With the 15-shot the 10oz bottle only lasted a few seconds so I bought a 4lb carbon fiber bottle, mounted it on the tunnel extension, and went to a 20-shot, then 25-shot, then 30-shot. With the 30-shot I gained a solid 15mph track speed. Off the bottle it pulls down from 10,500 into 10,200rpm while under full load climbing. On-the-bottle it spins up to 10,900-11,000rpm while under full load climbing. I'm now looking into different setups for a 40+ to 50+ shot while getting perfectly even dispersal to each cylinder. I originally had no intention of using this single dry nozzle setup at 40+ levels so I'm looking at options here.Wouldn't it be easier to buy dry nozzles and drill and tap the throttle bodies for them?
Check the Holley/NOS website. I wasn't paying attention to applications because I knew they didn't have one for an Apex.Hammer what vehicles do they make those for?
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kinger
VIP Member
If you figure a way to carry say 10lbs of nitrous let us know! My bottle runs dry in 20-30 seconds and then the fun is all over
You brought up an excellent point. I was blinded by nitro-lust for a moment there. I really wasn’t thinking of the practical side of going to a 40+ or 50+ shot. I'm normally only using the nitrous in 5 to 8 second bursts on top of 8 to 10 pounds boost. The 4 pound carbon fiber bottle lasts me all day in the areas/conditions I ride, which is 99.99% boondocking at or below tree line, and there just isn’t that many instances where I use an 8+ second blast. Going to a bigger shot is only going to reduce my on-the-bottle time so I think I’ll just stick with what I have for now. Thanks for the reality check kinger.My bottle runs dry in 20-30 seconds and then the fun is all over
30hp @ .35lbs per 10sec = 24 five second shots OR 15 eight second shots
I REALLY like the Custom Sled Shops duel exhaust pictured here, but now I’m thinking, I could pack two 4 pound carbon fiber bottles with the single exhaust and double my on-the-bottle time or go ahead and do the 40+ to 50+ shot.
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kinger
VIP Member
Damn I need to carry more NOS, its way to fun to ony use it in about 2-3 drag races then I'm out. 2.5lb bottle is all I have. Not sure about the two hanging off the rear end. Anybody know if we can buy the MPI oil tank seperatly, maybe I can fit something big down there?
Blown14psi
Pro
kinger said:What is easier about removing the throttle bodies, drilling, and tapping, leaving them marred for life if you ever change your mind, then re- installing vs popping out your injectors and replacing with these?
Nozzles are a 1/8" and 1/16" pipe thread and pipe plugs are readily available if you change your mind
And I was referring to the R&D time it would take to engineer a custom set for our sleds whereas the nozzles are already available.
CB PERFORMANCE makes some VERY nice injection blocks for the RX-1 but I haven't seen any posts for the APEX or NYTRO !!!Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 10:54 pm
The new manifold block for the fuel injected yamaha will be out in Dec.
-Bruce
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kinger
VIP Member
That is what i have, Bruce said they have the same thing for the apex.
Hammer haveyou thought about just a IC sprayer? I use it on my STI and it consistently loweres EGT's by 150-200 degrees. The factory sprayer is a button you push and it sprays for 2 seconds, I wired up a alternate switch with a boost sensor so now it kicks on at 10 psi and sprays for 2 seconds. I noticed while racing that if the IC gets heat soaked the sprayer is less effective but if I spray everytime I get into 10 PSi or more it never heats soaks and is cool to the touch even on a 95 degree day. Just a thought, mix 50/50 methanol from a paint store and it wouldn't freeze.
Hammer haveyou thought about just a IC sprayer? I use it on my STI and it consistently loweres EGT's by 150-200 degrees. The factory sprayer is a button you push and it sprays for 2 seconds, I wired up a alternate switch with a boost sensor so now it kicks on at 10 psi and sprays for 2 seconds. I noticed while racing that if the IC gets heat soaked the sprayer is less effective but if I spray everytime I get into 10 PSi or more it never heats soaks and is cool to the touch even on a 95 degree day. Just a thought, mix 50/50 methanol from a paint store and it wouldn't freeze.
When I first bought the supercharger I was looking at spraying the IC with C02 (cheaper and easier to get than nitrous) but after I researched it and gave it some thought I figured I'd just run nitrous to get the cooling effect, increased charge density, and increased horsepower. I want the most performance I can get with the least amount of parts (bottles, wires, hoses, solenoids, brackets, manifolds, nozzles, switches, relays, etc etc etc) I want to add a nitrous function and a nitrous delay function to my controller (like the new BoonDocker fuel controller). At this point I'm adding 12% more fuel manually for a 30-shot. So I'm 12% rich when I'm not on the button. I want a function that will graduate 1 thru 8 selectable positions on the fuel controller to max out at 25% more fuel and have fuel injectors start adding fuel 1-sec after activation of the nitrous solenoid. The reason for a delay function is the single dry nozzle's location in the charge air tube and it's relative position to the injectors. I would be able to use my BoonDocker nitrous pressure regulator in conjunction with the fuel controller to vary my horsepower form a 10-shot to a 60-shot without having to manually set the controller to a rich condition when I'm not on the button.
kinger
VIP Member
How are you going to clutch it? That is the biggest issue with nitrous, you have to under rev to get a 'good' shot if your doing 10-20hp shots then its not a big deal but a 60 shot you will need to compensate or bounce of the limiter.
Sounds like a good way for fuel though. Mine is more arechaic but more simple to I have a seperate fuel pump and tank that I keep 116 fuel in, then I arm the system it builds pressure, once activated I spray nitrous and race fuel at the same time directly in the intake ports of the head. Works awesome but hits like a sledge hammer I spend the other 99.9% of the time running at 9500 rpms max.
Sounds like a good way for fuel though. Mine is more arechaic but more simple to I have a seperate fuel pump and tank that I keep 116 fuel in, then I arm the system it builds pressure, once activated I spray nitrous and race fuel at the same time directly in the intake ports of the head. Works awesome but hits like a sledge hammer I spend the other 99.9% of the time running at 9500 rpms max.
I ride in the mountains...so...as altitude increases hp/rpm decrease. I ride the most at 6000ft to 8000ft so I'll adjust the fuel controller and nitrous pressure regulator to keep me at 11,000rpm on the bottle. Shouldn't have to change my clutching at all if I stick with the 30-shot I run now at 6000ft to 8000ft and the bottle will last longer. With the 30-shot I gained a solid 15mph track speed. Off the bottle it will pull down from 10,500 into 10,200rpm while under full load climbing. On the bottle it will spin it up to 11,000rpm while under full load climbing. If I go above 8000ft I'll just turn up the nitrous and fuel to maintain the 11,000rpm on the bottle. Click-Click-Click.......Done.How are you going to clutch it?
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