Seann17
Newbie
Hi Folks,
Hope I'm talking to the right bunch to help me figure out a few things. I'm getting to the end of a custom race car to street car conversion powered by an '06 Apex. Car is a 1969 Austin America (Mini's big brother). If you have any motorsport background, you may remember the highly successful BMW 3.0 CSL from the '70's...this project is a scaled down tribute to that car (now a 1.0 CSL/"Coupe Sport Lightweight"). You'll see the drivetrain in the photos, mid engine, rear drive through a homemade "driveshaft" to a live axle. If someone with some wiring expertise could discuss a few things...1) what to do with the grip and hand warmer wiring, 2) how to use one of those circuits to cancel codes, 3) disabling tors (I have a kill switch on the steering wheel, and a serious e-brake). At the moment I'm showing codes 13, 15, 21, 22 & 84 on the dash when key is on, but they don't show in the diagnostic section. Is there a way to tell if they are stored or current? Also, where can I read about using the dash for diagnosing.....
Thanks,
Seann
Hope I'm talking to the right bunch to help me figure out a few things. I'm getting to the end of a custom race car to street car conversion powered by an '06 Apex. Car is a 1969 Austin America (Mini's big brother). If you have any motorsport background, you may remember the highly successful BMW 3.0 CSL from the '70's...this project is a scaled down tribute to that car (now a 1.0 CSL/"Coupe Sport Lightweight"). You'll see the drivetrain in the photos, mid engine, rear drive through a homemade "driveshaft" to a live axle. If someone with some wiring expertise could discuss a few things...1) what to do with the grip and hand warmer wiring, 2) how to use one of those circuits to cancel codes, 3) disabling tors (I have a kill switch on the steering wheel, and a serious e-brake). At the moment I'm showing codes 13, 15, 21, 22 & 84 on the dash when key is on, but they don't show in the diagnostic section. Is there a way to tell if they are stored or current? Also, where can I read about using the dash for diagnosing.....
Thanks,
Seann
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for the tors you just need to unplug the sensor at the throttle bodies and plug the ends on the harness together. same applies to the handle bar end as there is a switch in the throttle block as well.
as to the grip warmer and thumb warmer, you could try using them as seat warmer and steering wheel warmer or for a window grid defroster of some type.
as to the grip warmer and thumb warmer, you could try using them as seat warmer and steering wheel warmer or for a window grid defroster of some type.
Seann17
Newbie
The only sensor at the throttle is the TPS...I don't see another one, any chance someone has a photo?
Thanks,
Seann
Thanks,
Seann
Seann17
Newbie
I've read about the white and black connectors, unplugging, joining together somehow, but those connectors are long gone in what's left of this wiring harness. What colour are the wires in those connectors? Maybe I've removed something when I put the sled harness on a diet to be in the car. I've blown up a schematic to 2 feet tall to help figure this out. I must have done something because when I initially tested the car it ran perfectly with no codes.
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sxr70001
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2010
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- Sidewinder LTX SE
SR Viper RTX SE
HELP! TORS activating and I need to bypass it right now
No less than 80 times today I had to fight TORS. It's totally ruining my trip. Too much powder is getting in everything and I'm sick of it activating. Want to bypass it so I can enjoy the conditions. On dial-up and I can't get consistent connection to use the search function. Owner's manual...
Lots of info, sometimes you just have to search for it.
Seann17
Newbie
Thanks for all that...I think I have read most of those, it sounds very simple(attached), but in my case those connectors are gone. If I knew the colours of the wires (not the connectors) I could trace their origin and make the fix. I don't see those on my exploded diagram. This harness was completely removed from the sled before carefully (and hopefully thoughtfully) disected to work in the car with "sled stuff" removed (maybe too much) . I never kept the handlebar switches, wish I had, but also think a 3 way spring loaded toggle would work for adjustment controls re grips and thumb/cancelling codes. What to do with the blk/yel wire for throttle switch, and the brn/yel for the shock? Thanks again
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sxr70001
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2010
- Messages
- 1,130
- Location
- Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder LTX SE
SR Viper RTX SE
Here's a picture from a vector. the wires might be the same color.
ty4stroke.com
TORS problem
I think this is the way you bypass the TORS on the VECTOR See the pics below. There are two plugs, one white and one black, they each have a single wire in them. Unplug them both and plug the two that come up from the engine compartment together. TORS is bypassed... I think this is the...
Seann17
Newbie
I've connected a seat heater to the yel/red wire (grip warmer circuit) to brown ground wire. Orange/white and orange/blue for the adjustment switch are switchable to ground. Blk/yel wire for throttle switch grounded to brown. Key on now shows codes 13, 15, 21, 22 (84 is gone). In diagnostic mode 62 showed 6 codes, I grounded the adjustment switch and it changed to 4. 61 shows 00, not sure why. I've drained the fuel, blew out lines, waiting for new plugs. Any ideas on these 4 codes, everything is connected. Would like to have all warning lights gone before trying next fire up. Thanks, Seann
