Not Sure if I should Stud or not ?

[TrailxRider]

I have an '07 RS Nytro and ride mostly groomed trails. Every year there some areas of the trails that get very icy. My friend rolled his attak once due to the ice, the track slid sideways then when he ran out of room on the ice and the track grabbed over it went a few times. Tehres also a section of steep hills they we ride through and its usually icy around the turns. I'm considering studs for safety reasons and I recently purchaced an Ulmer stage 2 clucth kit that extra grip may help. I've read a lot of peoples tracks getting ruinied from the studs. Not sure if the studs are better now vs the prior years or if they are the same. I read that its best to use double studs and down the middle. I'm new to all this. Would it be a waste for me in the long run ruining my track? I dont race and I dont ride lakes.

 

[kinger]

Studs dont ruin tracks drivers do. When studding you have to be responsbile, ie when crossing roads, sidewalks, etc try to accel before you get there and coast across, minmize your track spin when you realize it, etc.

Best bet is studs in double backers up the middle and you'll be good to go. I wont run without studs any more.

 

[TrailxRider]

Studs dont ruin tracks drivers do. When studding you have to be responsbile, ie when crossing roads, sidewalks, etc try to accel before you get there and coast across, minmize your track spin when you realize it, etc.

Best bet is studs in double backers up the middle and you'll be good to go. I wont run without studs any more.

Are all brands the same? what ones do you recomend for trail use for 121 track? Basically if I were to stud the track myself what do I need? Do I need anything to protect the tunnel?

 

[kinger]

I personally wait for the shadetree powersports 20% off in july sale and get teh cheapest studs I can get. Last time they were $0.68 each vs 1-2-3$ from name brands. Sure I had a few bent here and there but less then 5 in two years money well saved IMO.

All you will need is track drill bit ( I have one I could loan you). They are held from spinning with a allen wrench works great if you have a "T" handle allen and a impact wrench to tighten them all. It can be a long job otherwise. Track template helps to just make one from cardboard or get a woody's template (although you will need to customize it for the all doubles as they like row of doubles then a row of singles)

Tunnel protectors are already there you should be good. see the woody's guide for your track lug height and how long of a stud you need. Dont go longer then 1.45"

 

[Nick1945]

Studs dont ruin tracks drivers do. When studding you have to be responsbile, ie when crossing roads, sidewalks, etc try to accel before you get there and coast across, minmize your track spin when you realize it, etc.

Best bet is studs in double backers up the middle and you'll be good to go. I wont run without studs any more.

Are all brands the same? what ones do you recomend for trail use for 121 track? Basically if I were to stud the track myself what do I need? Do I need anything to protect the tunnel?

Not all brands are the same. I'm sure everyone will chime in with there favorite, just like me. Woody's Gold Diggers, have always worked well for me ( Michigan trail rider ). You should have tunnel protectors on your sled , as thats the way they come from the factory. I have the same sled you do, only an '06. 96 up the middle should work fine, and you have different patterns to pick from. Try to get the most scratch lines on a repeating pattern. Depending on the type of riding you do, you can also go 120, even 144, anything more for a 120 hp sled would just be extra weight that you have to turn.
Hope this helps you out.

Nick

 

[Boomer]

TrailxRider,
Let me know when you want to stud your track,I'll be happy to help you out. I've got the template and track drill, so all you'll need is the studs and backers. It also makes it alot easier if you have a way to lift the rear end up or have a sled stand when doing it.

I'm not a big name brand believer, ie Woodys as I used Riders Choice in my last sled from Shade tree and they never bent, rusted or pulled through and a lot cheaper too. I'm right down the road from you in Camillus and would be happy to help out a fellow TY'er.

 

[TrailxRider]

TrailxRider,
Let me know when you want to stud your track,I'll be happy to help you out. I've got the template and track drill, so all you'll need is the studs and backers. It also makes it alot easier if you have a way to lift the rear end up or have a sled stand when doing it.

I'm not a big name brand believer, ie Woodys as I used Riders Choice in my last sled from Shade tree and they never bent, rusted or pulled through and a lot cheaper too. I'm right down the road from you in Camillus and would be happy to help out a fellow TY'er.

thanks Boomer. I'll definitely keep in touch. I'm also looking for more guys/woman to ride with Locally. I don't know much of the trails around here and ride with just one other guy and his daughter whose my age...I'll be 28 in November. I've only been south of Auburn on the trail that's around Owasco Lake to Moravia and Cortland.

I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I'm the only snowmobiler in my family and hoping to get another guest sled next year to get my brothers hooked haha So as of now I'm wokring on my sled alone with only knowledge and help from you guys here at this site

 

[Grimm]

Why not get a pre studded Ice Ripper track? While not quite as aggressive as a full on set of studs, it certainly gives you that traction when you need them in the corners and hills.

Then there is no worry about studs breaking, loosening, causing damage. Plus, with studs, you have to keep an eye on them, replacing them and tightening them every so often. Less risk of heat exchanger damage too.

 

[TrailxRider]

Why not get a pre studded Ice Ripper track? While not quite as aggressive as a full on set of studs, it certainly gives you that traction when you need them in the corners and hills.

Then there is no worry about studs breaking, loosening, causing damage. Plus, with studs, you have to keep an eye on them, replacing them and tightening them every so often. Less risk of heat exchanger damage too.

I thought about it but aren't those tracks expensive? I'm looking for something a little cheaper and not to extememe. I just don't want to roll my sled or slide off the trail and fall 50 feet hitting trees on the way down. I only have 900 miles on my current track so its in new shape.

I'll look into it but not sure what to do. I don't want to spend a fortune thats all. I want to feel a little safer when the trails get icy.

 

[Grimm]

I bought my track from CB Performance here: http://www.cbperformanceparts.com/produ ... id=103#top
I found them to be the best price at the time.

Swap it in and then sell your used track to recoup some of the expense. It would be pretty close in price to buying 144 studs and backers, plus less maintenance.

 

[bjowett]

IMO, Accord Racing Top Dogs, 96 doubles down the center.

 

[Len Todd]

Personally, I have seen way to many 1 1/4" tracks torn up by studs. I had used studs for 30 years and in the past would never ride w/o them. But, ... when you have to have 1 3/8" studs, they are way to vulnerable. If you have have a good 1 1/4" track, the best way to to ruin it is to stud it. One good spin on a rock or rail and the track is done. If you do not catch it right away, then your fixing heat exchangers, etc.

Also, a Stage II clutch is even harder on a studded track: 1.) You are always coming in at a higher RPM which causes track spin. 2.) You are alway doing hole shots to see if the clutch mod is what you wanted, etc..

Also, with 150+ HP you need about 244 studs to keep from over stressing them. Look at any studding table. More HP = more studs. The reason is to keep from putting too much stress on each stud. 96 studs is good for about 90 HP.

Also, with single ply tracks they have very little to pull through. You also need special studs for single ply tracks.

If I could not go with an Ice Ripper, then I went w/o studs and watched for Ice. Better yet, ... drive reasonable speeds for given conditions, etc. (I read that someplace )

Just my $.02. But, I think most folks can get the drift.

 

[LazyBastard]

Best thing to do for safety is to be aware of the conditions you ride in. If it is extremely icy, use extra caution -- don't drive as fast. This goes regardless of whether or not you have spikes. I don't use any -- can't stand how they affect steering, road crossings, and how they cause damage to concrete floors.

Every time I've seen hills get really icy, it has ALWAYS been possible to ride up on the edges. The trick is to plan the climb BEFORE actually going for it -- keep the thing moving good and plan escapes all the way up in case you don't make it -- you want to be able to pull the thing off the ice if you lose momentum rather than spinning to a stop and sliding down backwards. Sometimes a good trick is to keep switching sides -- you know how sometimes you get a groove in the middle of the trail where traffic packs and digs the trail down? Well, it is hard to stick to the side since the trail will try to suck you back in to the middle, so pull it onto one side, and as it pulls you back in, pull it up the other side and bounce it back and forth -- be sure that there's no traffic when doing this!

 

[NJNYTRO]

96 down the middle on my 06. I ride the hill and old forge and yes most of the time the trails are groomed, the corners get real icey quick from all the traffic. 96 I feel is best of both worlds and like others have said, just be careful on road crossings and gas station pads.
Cortland is some good riding if you get the snow. I am about 1-1/2 - 2 hours from you. I'd make the trip up to you and ride with ya if you got the snow.
Boomers fun to ride with and don't tell him but we are gonna crash on his couch and ride by him- the misses won't care -

 

[bottlerocket]

Best thing to do for safety is to be aware of the conditions you ride in. If it is extremely icy, use extra caution -- don't drive as fast. This goes regardless of whether or not you have spikes. I don't use any -- can't stand how they affect steering, road crossings, and how they cause damage to concrete floors.

Every time I've seen hills get really icy, it has ALWAYS been possible to ride up on the edges. The trick is to plan the climb BEFORE actually going for it -- keep the thing moving good and plan escapes all the way up in case you don't make it -- you want to be able to pull the thing off the ice if you lose momentum rather than spinning to a stop and sliding down backwards. Sometimes a good trick is to keep switching sides -- you know how sometimes you get a groove in the middle of the trail where traffic packs and digs the trail down? Well, it is hard to stick to the side since the trail will try to suck you back in to the middle, so pull it onto one side, and as it pulls you back in, pull it up the other side and bounce it back and forth -- be sure that there's no traffic when doing this!

Do you not run carbides for the concrete scraches? LOL