Nytro Suspension- Need help getting a softer ride

[2008 Nytro RTX]

But the Viper does not have near the adjustments this sled has. Plus this sled rides,The Viper beat you up weather you road it hard or not.

 

[nate007]

All in all, it just takes time to get it set up right. As with anything you buy, a manufacturer can't build a machine that will satisfy everybody. Some of us just won't ever be happy, some will love it right out of the box.
Just be patient. Try to enjoy the fact that the sled will outlast just about every other sled on the market, and once you do get it dialed in, you'll want to keep it a long time! Some may take longer than others to get it right, but stay at it. We're all here to help!!

 

[2008 Nytro RTX]

All in all, it just takes time to get it set up right. As with anything you buy, a manufacturer can't build a machine that will satisfy everybody. Some of us just won't ever be happy, some will love it right out of the box.
Just be patient. Try to enjoy the fact that the sled will outlast just about every other sled on the market, and once you do get it dialed in, you'll want to keep it a long time! Some may take longer than others to get it right, but stay at it. We're all here to help!!

Thank god for that!

 

[Superman]

Snowtech said (and I'm paraphrasing here) "The RTX is a serious bump sled and consider yourself warned." What seems to be the problem here? I think alot of us were spoiled by just how GREAT the Mono-shock rides. (the mono shock is the best OEM suspension ever made for the masses. Period) If you were expecting the RTX to go 80 to 100 mph down the Bill Nichols trail littered with stutter bumps in comfort you were sleeping at the wheel. I for one have to stand on the soap box and praise the hell out of Yamaha for finally building a consumer package big bump sled. I love My RTX but I also have to say I didn't know what I had in My Attak until I rode My RTX. Revalving shocks is just a reallity for some every year. The last few years the guys with the Mono's had to stiffen them and this year the guys with the RTX's are looking like they might have to soften the shocks. Everyones weight and riding preferences are going to be different. Even guys that get on here and say they really beat the crap out of a sled are not going to be looking for the same valving. My RTX is not where I want it but it is getting closer. Personally I think the Rebound is just too fast on My sled and since I've slowed it down it is getting better. I need a couple more rides to get it right for Me. I wanted a sled that would take a shot and the RTX definately does. If We want the perfect sled for all conditions We have to have 2 or 3 sleds on the trailer. JMO.

 

[82SRX500]

Guys, the feedback is good here. The shocks are out of the sled today and are off to Pioneer for re-valving. Hopefully next weekend I will be post report on how the RTX rides with revalved shocks. The thread will probably be pointed towards those under 200 pounds looking for spring and compression rates better suited for a lighter rider. Stay tuned.

 

[sstickler]

Snowtech said (and I'm paraphrasing here) "The RTX is a serious bump sled and consider yourself warned." What seems to be the problem here? I think alot of us were spoiled by just how GREAT the Mono-shock rides. (the mono shock is the best OEM suspension ever made for the masses. Period) If you were expecting the RTX to go 80 to 100 mph down the Bill Nichols trail littered with stutter bumps in comfort you were sleeping at the wheel. I for one have to stand on the soap box and praise the hell out of Yamaha for finally building a consumer package big bump sled. I love My RTX but I also have to say I didn't know what I had in My Attak until I rode My RTX. Revalving shocks is just a reallity for some every year. The last few years the guys with the Mono's had to stiffen them and this year the guys with the RTX's are looking like they might have to soften the shocks. Everyones weight and riding preferences are going to be different. Even guys that get on here and say they really beat the crap out of a sled are not going to be looking for the same valving. My RTX is not where I want it but it is getting closer. Personally I think the Rebound is just too fast on My sled and since I've slowed it down it is getting better. I need a couple more rides to get it right for Me. I wanted a sled that would take a shot and the RTX definately does. If We want the perfect sled for all conditions We have to have 2 or 3 sleds on the trailer. JMO.

GREAT post...that is why I have two sleds!!

I am also "close" to having my RTX just the way I want it...heading up this weekend to Eagle River and LOOKING for bumps...

 

[NOS-PRO]

Don't sweat it....the sled has SO many adjustments to make it right for you! The trick is to be patient enough to figure out what works best for you!

lucky_7 is correct here, no sled is set up exactly the way the owner wants it, and it takes some tweaking to get it to your liking. MrSled asked me if I went thru the manual, and set it up to the way they recommend,...I did not. I was always a feel it in your pants kind of guy. Almost 800 miles on the sled, and tweaking every time I have it out. Will try the manual setup, and see if I like it or not. Rode 274 miles on Monday, and had all kinds of conditions, and am getting closer.

 

[unchained]

Fine, but what type of rider was my sled set-up for? It was teeth rattling in the stutters yet bottomed easily, major ski lift and inside ski high siding and horrible pushing in the corners.

Im getting mine really close as well and finally getting excited, but this sled was not even close for my 6'0 185 lb butt from the factory.

My buddys 07 IQ 600 HO cfi high sided and had bad inside ski lift so we raised the limiter strap and BAM its an absolute riot to ride. I agree adjustments are a part of the deal, but he hasnt done anything else and is now happy as pig in #*$&@ after (1) 20 min adjustment. Thats more normal to me when a sled is ridden for the first time as a basic trail sled in normal trail conditions, not sno-crossing, iron dog, etc, etc.

Watch the DVD that came in the mail and listen carefully how the girl (Lisa) comments to the dude (Paul) that after spending 2 weeks dialing it in, its really starting to handle better------- or something like that.

Dont get me wrong, its really coming around but thank god because my bottle of Valium is about empty

 

[micheal_654]

Another person looking to setup his suspension to make it ride better. First thing I would like to know is could someone explain compression damping & rebound damping to me. Also how should I setup the suspension (front & rear) for better traction with the least amount of ski pressure but so thats its not tippy either. I'm about 120 pounds , I dont ride extremely aggressive , more in the middle of aggressive and non-aggressive. I have the strandard nytro by the way

 

[Kråkan]

comp= compressing the shock, rebound is the dampening of the decompression that the spring is doing to the shock. To get less skipressure tighten the center spring alittle or loosen the front springs. One turn might do alot so adjust and testdrive etc..

 

[Kråkan]

try reading this aswell!!

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=67200

 

[Thecross]

Another person looking to setup his suspension to make it ride better. First thing I would like to know is could someone explain compression damping & rebound damping to me. Also how should I setup the suspension (front & rear) for better traction with the least amount of ski pressure but so thats its not tippy either. I'm about 120 pounds , I dont ride extremely aggressive , more in the middle of aggressive and non-aggressive. I have the strandard nytro by the way

I would like to know more on this as well. But the compression setting will change how much force it takes to make the suspension move up into the sled. Rebound is how fast it returns to the normal ride height. If rebound is set too soft, the sled will start to ride bouncy as if you are just riding on a spring.

 

[stopdropanroll]

Maybe you got a stiff one cuz I think I got a soft one, I bottom this XTX out all the time, though I am 6'6 250lb and bang trails fairly hard, I think the valving is too soft on the front shocks and the front rear shock, I will either change to Ohlins or the trail pro Hygear setup to make the bottoming disapeer, but yes as Lucky7 said it takes some time and you will find the right setup, you also have to understand that the conditions play into this too, you might love the setup on some terrain and not the other, its a give and take relationship with these whores!!!!

 

[stewartb]

Another person looking to setup his suspension to make it ride better. First thing I would like to know is could someone explain compression damping & rebound damping to me. Also how should I setup the suspension (front & rear) for better traction with the least amount of ski pressure but so thats its not tippy either. I'm about 120 pounds , I dont ride extremely aggressive , more in the middle of aggressive and non-aggressive. I have the strandard nytro by the way

Your sled's suspension height is determined by 3 coil springs at the front and center and the torsion springs in the very rear. If the shocks weren't there you'd have a trampoline effect. As the suspension compressed it would store energy in the springs and at some point would bounce back higher than it started, then compress, then bounce, etc. The compression is easy to understand, and the bounce back is rebound. What shocks do is to control the rate at which the suspension can compress and rebound. Not the capability to compress or rebound, but the RATE, or how fast compression and rebound can occur. More dampening equals more control of that motion. Increasing compression dampening slows the rate of compression and makes the ride feel stiffer, but also prevents the springs from bottoming. Increase rebound dampening and the shock will stay compressed longer. It's a delicate balance. Since factory suspensions are set to the average sized rider you're not provided with spring rates or baseline valve rates that are appropriate for your weight.

Your problem starts with the spring rates. My wife is 110# and has struggled with the XTX. I changed the front shock springs to Hygear triple rate springs to soften the front. A triple rate spring consists of three springs in a stack. The bottom is normal stiff, the mid is softer, and the top one is there to prevent the springs from going slack when the shock is extended but collapses completely when the sled is sitting normally. With the ultra-soft top spring you can reduce preload further than previously possible. This is effective at softening the ride up front and easing the steering effort but it also lowers the ride. Doing this puts more pressure on the center shock, so that shock will need to be adjusted for spring rate as well as valving to compensate. You don't want the center shock to rebound and force the weight forward making the soft front suspension carry the weight of the sled. Of course all this also changes the torsion spring and rear shock's contribution too. Since the suspension is a SYSTEM you need to address all the components when you make changes. Ohlins compares the snowmobile suspension to four legs on a table. All need to be fit properly to prevent one leg from supporting too much of the load and creating instability. You can have a suspension shop like Hygear or Pioneer change your springs and re-valve your shocks to suit your weight and riding style. Doing so will provide you much better performance and a more comfortable ride. In my book it's the one absolute must-do mod, to set suspension to suit the primary rider. Call a suspension shop and chat with them. They can help you.

A word of advice. Lowering ride height will compromise deep snow performance. Decide for yourself what's important to you for your riding style.

SB