snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
yes,i just tested the 2012 128 track length sleds in colebrook and the 144's my choice would be 128,to me that is better than 121 and 136-144 anyday,and if you make it a 1" you can stud it with 144 down the middle all on double backer plates,with good hook up,and no worries about pull outs,i just bought max studs and double backers plates from richierich,double backer plates 50 cents a piece and 1 buck for 1.25 max studs,thats a deal.zigoapex1 said:thats why i was thinking 128 more lugs in the snow but will still turn.mnmsnowbeast said:If you try to run hard with a shortie thru the tight stuff with a 136 you will get beat bad,if you just polk along,they are ok,but not all that are cracked up to be.zigoapex1 said:thanks for the feedback guyz,
is 136 going to turn well ? I was thinking of the wider a-arms to eliminate ski lift
and with longer track to help with push in corners.
the only reason was going to go with 1" so it would be easier to pick
(less problem with heat exchanger getting a pick through it.)
granto211
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
No turning problems with my 144" tip up. Dont really feel to long on the apex compared to my buddys nyto xtx
BETHEVIPER
Lifetime Member
I would use your skid, have shocks revalved, add a steel upper rear shaft with extra brushing and fittings. Put 136 extensions on it, with 1..25 ice attack.
Ulcer bushings up front,with fittings.
12 or 13mm sway bar
Pc 3 w/ignition and clutching/gears to match
128 for traction is a waste. It puts less than two more bars on the ground. That track is more about approach angle with tall skid than traction.
Yamaheater for sure
Skid plate
Header from ulmer as well since you still have some money left
Ulcer bushings up front,with fittings.
12 or 13mm sway bar
Pc 3 w/ignition and clutching/gears to match
128 for traction is a waste. It puts less than two more bars on the ground. That track is more about approach angle with tall skid than traction.
Yamaheater for sure
Skid plate
Header from ulmer as well since you still have some money left
apexrtxmaniac
Pro
Revalve/shock work (hygear)-$300-1k or used zx2 for under $1500 if you can find one
Extend to 136 or 144 with tipped up rails (most likely cobra track). $700-1500+ (if you had new rails cnc'd)
Wide a-arms (pioneer makes them I think)-$600
New skis (best reviews seem to be on curves and c&a's)
Skid plate
hids
yamaheater
(all depending on what cash you have left over)
rtx is already geared down so it will take the long track well-clutching might not be perfect though.
Extend to 136 or 144 with tipped up rails (most likely cobra track). $700-1500+ (if you had new rails cnc'd)
Wide a-arms (pioneer makes them I think)-$600
New skis (best reviews seem to be on curves and c&a's)
Skid plate
hids
yamaheater
(all depending on what cash you have left over)
rtx is already geared down so it will take the long track well-clutching might not be perfect though.
zigoapex1
Extreme
lawmanbsi said:You can almost eliminate ski lift in the corners by setting up your suspension correctly. I have the gytr front shocks. Set the spring as long as you can while keeping the spring clip seated at full extention. turn the top clicker full clockwise -3 and bottom full counter clockwise +3 (or visa-versa). with powder pro skis and 6" shaper.
The skid I have limiter strap +1 longer, transfer rod in middle. mono ra set to middle +3 and the spring set in middle. My spring is the 6.5kg/mm and shock was revalved at pioneer. stiffer spring is only because I'm 210 lbs. I run 2 studs per lug in a 1.25 track with 1.375 stud. no issues with hitting heat exchanger. If your still worried about it, switch your driver to an 8 tooth extrovert. it will give you another 1/4" clearence at exchanger.
The Cobra track is really a 1.25 track but it has finger sticking out to the 1.325 hieght. you still stud it as a 1.25 track. use double backers with tall nuts and stud pull through shouldn't be a problem.
Only place I notice the extra length is slow speed turn arounds.
my suspension is totally different than yours. I tried every configuration on it and you can only do so much before you start causing another problem.from everything i read on here,it seems the best fix for my riding style is to put a zx2 in it.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: o7 apex rtx 3000.00 to put into it,best bang for the bu
I think you have a great plan! It sounds like you're thinking along the same lines I was when I did mine. I'm not crazy about the wide front end mod, but to each their own. Set up properly w/13mm sway bar, I don't think you need it for hard play in the twisties. I really like how you're talking a 1" track for studding purposes. You're setting up for marginal/icy conditions priority over off trail performance?
You might want to consider extroverts and a custom driveshaft (Micro Belmont) as part of your mods as well. Going with an OEM (Poo/Cat/Doo) skid could easily save you enough money to do that and still be less money than an aftermarket skid.
After having driven my machine 6000+ miles over the last 4 seasons, I think you'll be very happy with the sled you're thinking of. I would do mine again in a heartbeat.
I think you have a great plan! It sounds like you're thinking along the same lines I was when I did mine. I'm not crazy about the wide front end mod, but to each their own. Set up properly w/13mm sway bar, I don't think you need it for hard play in the twisties. I really like how you're talking a 1" track for studding purposes. You're setting up for marginal/icy conditions priority over off trail performance?
You might want to consider extroverts and a custom driveshaft (Micro Belmont) as part of your mods as well. Going with an OEM (Poo/Cat/Doo) skid could easily save you enough money to do that and still be less money than an aftermarket skid.
After having driven my machine 6000+ miles over the last 4 seasons, I think you'll be very happy with the sled you're thinking of. I would do mine again in a heartbeat.
zigoapex1 said:looking at new sleds and there's lots to look at, but i dont
like 13,000.00 + out the door,price tags on them.
so im thinking droping 3 to 4 g's in mine and make it the perfect
sled.
Here's my thinking love my motor, it always puts a smile on my face
the front shocks are awesome,they are very stable sleds even at speed.
the rear skid, to be as positive as can be, it totally sucks dead monkey #*$&@ !
the track i think is to short for the gearing and power of the motor.
so I would like to put in a new skid (maybe x2, expert x) stretch it to 128 with 1" lugs, picked track,curve skis,and put the wider a-arm kit on it,
and do the steering bearings upgrade as well as front bushings
change jack shaft bearings.and if i have any more to spend,
may put it into clutching.
what do you guys think,am i on the right bus ?
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
3Gs huh Here is what I would do short of selling the sled and buying a GT but it really depends on where and how you ride. This is for me on a groomed trail with my 07 RTX
Used GT suspension 500.00
Reinforce W arm 100.0 I think its on here somewhere
Revalve and new spring 75.00
Used seat from a GT (I just got mine its much softer than a RTX) 200.00
Mountain performance wide kit 500.00
Set of used 5.7 pilot skis good wear rods 200.00 (have them on mine)
1 1/4 track 144 studs 600.00 (have on mine)
23T gear and a new chain you need it. about 100.00
Extrovert drivers 200.00 (have on mine)
Ulmer clutch kit 390.00
PC III and timing advance from Ulmer Ram air kit from Ulmer 880.00
Larger diameter Y pipes (I didnt like the louder exhaust, but it makes a tiny bit more HP and is lighter which would be more, but I will sell you mine cheap) 550.00
Yamaheaters for the grips (not sure but there is a guy on here for priceing)
You would also want to replace your bearings etc check wheels and all that crap. This stuff would take care of almost every shortcoming I found on my 07 RTX The clutching and gearing and track combo seems to be what I could find as the best of overall I am sure you will find people who like others etc this is what I want for my sled. The suspension is junk I have tried to fix it I hate it I also want a mono and the revlave and spring my friend has the widening kit with a mono with the spring and shock revalve and upon riding his there is zero ski lift it doesnt hook and the rear rides excellent. He also has the headers but uses a Hauck fuel excellerator which I also have I didnt like the loud exhaust and went stock and I am looking to try a different clutch kit versus the Hauck one I have. From all my reading Ulmer is the way to go, just my .02. Again the skis have had alot of write up and on a groomed trail alot of people love them with the widening kit I didnt notice my buddies sled the pushing I felt on mine without the widening kit. The 23 tooth has been tested over and over so it also seems to be the best overall. Extrovert just let you run the track loose and no ratcheting. I put them on mine and love it.
Used GT suspension 500.00
Reinforce W arm 100.0 I think its on here somewhere
Revalve and new spring 75.00
Used seat from a GT (I just got mine its much softer than a RTX) 200.00
Mountain performance wide kit 500.00
Set of used 5.7 pilot skis good wear rods 200.00 (have them on mine)
1 1/4 track 144 studs 600.00 (have on mine)
23T gear and a new chain you need it. about 100.00
Extrovert drivers 200.00 (have on mine)
Ulmer clutch kit 390.00
PC III and timing advance from Ulmer Ram air kit from Ulmer 880.00
Larger diameter Y pipes (I didnt like the louder exhaust, but it makes a tiny bit more HP and is lighter which would be more, but I will sell you mine cheap) 550.00
Yamaheaters for the grips (not sure but there is a guy on here for priceing)
You would also want to replace your bearings etc check wheels and all that crap. This stuff would take care of almost every shortcoming I found on my 07 RTX The clutching and gearing and track combo seems to be what I could find as the best of overall I am sure you will find people who like others etc this is what I want for my sled. The suspension is junk I have tried to fix it I hate it I also want a mono and the revlave and spring my friend has the widening kit with a mono with the spring and shock revalve and upon riding his there is zero ski lift it doesnt hook and the rear rides excellent. He also has the headers but uses a Hauck fuel excellerator which I also have I didnt like the loud exhaust and went stock and I am looking to try a different clutch kit versus the Hauck one I have. From all my reading Ulmer is the way to go, just my .02. Again the skis have had alot of write up and on a groomed trail alot of people love them with the widening kit I didnt notice my buddies sled the pushing I felt on mine without the widening kit. The 23 tooth has been tested over and over so it also seems to be the best overall. Extrovert just let you run the track loose and no ratcheting. I put them on mine and love it.
zigoapex1
Extreme
race24x said:3Gs huh Here is what I would do short of selling the sled and buying a GT but it really depends on where and how you ride. This is for me on a groomed trail with my 07 RTX
Used GT suspension 500.00
Reinforce W arm 100.0 I think its on here somewhere
Revalve and new spring 75.00
Used seat from a GT (I just got mine its much softer than a RTX) 200.00
Mountain performance wide kit 500.00
Set of used 5.7 pilot skis good wear rods 200.00 (have them on mine)
1 1/4 track 144 studs 600.00 (have on mine)
23T gear and a new chain you need it. about 100.00
Extrovert drivers 200.00 (have on mine)
Ulmer clutch kit 390.00
PC III and timing advance from Ulmer Ram air kit from Ulmer 880.00
Larger diameter Y pipes (I didnt like the louder exhaust, but it makes a tiny bit more HP and is lighter which would be more, but I will sell you mine cheap) 550.00
Yamaheaters for the grips (not sure but there is a guy on here for priceing)
You would also want to replace your bearings etc check wheels and all that crap. This stuff would take care of almost every shortcoming I found on my 07 RTX The clutching and gearing and track combo seems to be what I could find as the best of overall I am sure you will find people who like others etc this is what I want for my sled. The suspension is junk I have tried to fix it I hate it I also want a mono and the revlave and spring my friend has the widening kit with a mono with the spring and shock revalve and upon riding his there is zero ski lift it doesnt hook and the rear rides excellent. He also has the headers but uses a Hauck fuel excellerator which I also have I didnt like the loud exhaust and went stock and I am looking to try a different clutch kit versus the Hauck one I have. From all my reading Ulmer is the way to go, just my .02. Again the skis have had alot of write up and on a groomed trail alot of people love them with the widening kit I didnt notice my buddies sled the pushing I felt on mine without the widening kit. The 23 tooth has been tested over and over so it also seems to be the best overall. Extrovert just let you run the track loose and no ratcheting. I put them on mine and love it.
gt are a groomed trail sled i had and er and sold it for the rtx
I will give up comfort for handling any day.
I want my rtx to be able to handle what ever i throw it into.
I went riding with 3 x cross racers/winners,I didn't know who they were until the next day,but i was holding my own keeping up with them for about 3 hrs and then i was spent.
I learned a lot that day,my skid was my enemy and the fox air up front
were very good shocks,I bent my tunnel going though the bumps at there speeds,I wasn't uncomfortable with the speed,it was the way the skid kept
bottoming,I had the middle clicker on 2 back from full and even put a little pressure on front skid, and springs full
I think at the end of the day,we have a good product but,yamaha stopped short on the second most important part of the sled,the skid.and we s
houldn't have to be playing with ski types either.(i have 5.7s on mine)
so I just have to get the skid and track right and i think i will have a sled
that I would not change.
I rode an etec rough trail,there skid is very good,but there very tippy
and the front shocks suck.the motor was ok but doesn't have that pulling power that ours has.they would pull about 2 sled lenths ahead of me mid-range because i never really hook up.
the yama heaters I dont need I dont know if it's just me but i cant turn
up my heaters up all the way or my hands get to hot.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
With all of the other posts on here and the sticky about the 07 shock revalving at the top. I have to say you are one of the only ones that likes the RTX suspension. It does handle a large bump pretty well, but after revalving and new springs on mine and riding on a mono that is revalved and new springs, I cant see why anyone would even try with the RTX. The mono handled everything except the snocross ditch banging stuff great. If I was going to snocross ditch bang I would have picked a sled better suited for that. My RTX cant handle a stutter bump to save its life all of the way up to about 1 foot if I hit a big bump it doesnt bottom and sucks it up pretty good just doesnt react wuick enough for the next bump at speed.
BETHEVIPER
Lifetime Member
there are some good reads on here about valving that skid.
The rear arm breaking can be fixed with a steel shaft up top , extra bushings shoved to the middle and two more grease fittings in between. puts the weight of the sled on the shaft, not the pipe welded to the arms.
The revalved monos are very nice but also need revaling and alot of reinforcement to take a beeting.
The rear arm breaking can be fixed with a steel shaft up top , extra bushings shoved to the middle and two more grease fittings in between. puts the weight of the sled on the shaft, not the pipe welded to the arms.
The revalved monos are very nice but also need revaling and alot of reinforcement to take a beeting.
zigoapex1
Extreme
I never said i liked the rtx suspension (rear skid)in fact this is what i said about it in myrace24x said:With all of the other posts on here and the sticky about the 07 shock revalving at the top. I have to say you are one of the only ones that likes the RTX suspension. It does handle a large bump pretty well, but after revalving and new springs on mine and riding on a mono that is revalved and new springs, I cant see why anyone would even try with the RTX. The mono handled everything except the snocross ditch banging stuff great. If I was going to snocross ditch bang I would have picked a sled better suited for that. My RTX cant handle a stutter bump to save its life all of the way up to about 1 foot if I hit a big bump it doesnt bottom and sucks it up pretty good just doesnt react wuick enough for the next bump at speed.
OP
"the rear skid, to be as positive as can be, it totally sucks dead monkey #*$&@ !"
Thats why I'd like to put a whole new skid in it.(zx2 or expert x leaning towards the zx2)
BETHEVIPER
"The rear arm breaking can be fixed with a steel shaft up top , extra bushings shoved to the middle and two more grease fittings in between. puts the weight of the sled on the shaft, not the pipe welded to the arms"
Do you have pics of one like that ?
I have to bend my tunnel back,I was going to beef it up with some aluminum or does someone have an aftermarket ready to slap in?
Thanks,
trailmarker
Extreme
with $3000 - this is on a GT - if not but the mono suspension
1) ulmer clutch kit, 23 gear, air box mod, pc3 and ignition mod
2) 7.1 spring and shock tec revalve
3) suspension strengthing- he has a post on here
4) larger wheels, low snow front wheels, mid wheel kit, 4 wheel in rear
5) cobra track, 1.45 studs -144 of them
6) pilots with snow trackers,
7) spend some time setting up your shocks and suspension
1) ulmer clutch kit, 23 gear, air box mod, pc3 and ignition mod
2) 7.1 spring and shock tec revalve
3) suspension strengthing- he has a post on here
4) larger wheels, low snow front wheels, mid wheel kit, 4 wheel in rear
5) cobra track, 1.45 studs -144 of them
6) pilots with snow trackers,
7) spend some time setting up your shocks and suspension
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