Oil Breather Leak Fix?

[woodsrider]

Here's what I just put on my Nytro to address this problem. I've got just under $50.00 invested. It is alum construction and will hold approx 1qt and has a sight tube and drain plug.

 

[mtdream]

nice woods, but you just took out the only storage on teh whole sled...

 

[woodsrider]

Actually I didn't. If you put an under tunnel exhaust (which I have) and enclose the space under the seat (which I did) you still have five times the space under the seat than in the nose.

 

[mtdream]

was just giving you crap...looks nice

 

[skidooboy]

mt stop giving crap and get out, ride and take more pics

your just jealous a few of us have seats with storage. LOL!

but i am jealous you have boost and i dont so, touche'

ski

 

[woodsrider]

I figured you were and no offense taken

 

[Topgun]

That system looks great and well done but the oil can't drain back into the system, but will prevent one hell of a mess. I rigged this system up for under 5 bucks and has been tested on two nytros that were on their lids a few times in Fernie last month. Nos drink bottle, 3/4 inch hose and a filtered breather from Canadian tire.
It allows oil to run into the bottle when on its lid and for it to run back in when put back up on the track. Nothin fancy.

 

[woodsrider]

Actually if I thought I lost enough oil to pose a problem; there is enough hose to allow me to unhook the mtg bracket and drain the captured oil back into the main oil tank. Not automatically like yours but I'm cathing the mist from venting also.

 

[Topgun]

Actually if I thought I lost enough oil to pose a problem; there is enough hose to allow me to unhook the mtg bracket and drain the captured oil back into the main oil tank. Not automatically like yours but I'm cathing the mist from venting also.

LOL, I just didn't wanna go through the work of pulling the plastic everytime the thing took a tumble, mind you it doesn't happen alot.

 

[Lococoin]

Anyone else come up with some ideas over summer?

 

[spray25]

Mtnvipers kit is the bomb.

 

[r0tax]

good to see more ideas and options poppin up.

the front mount oil res tank would not work w/ the impulse turbo.

but it looks like theres something for everyone coming out. which is good to have.

 

[tapex_07]

Re: Oil breather fix

Here is what I did. Haven't lost a drop of oil yet and it has been on it's lid several times. Besides this, one of the keys is to kill the engine as fast as you can. This would work for turbos as well and is much more effective, neat and tidy than the pop bottle setup. I have a lot of experience with solenoid valves like have been discussed in this post but couldn't bring myself to trust it. The last thing I want is a blown motor. By the way, the best solenoid valves to use, if you insist on it, are ASCO valves. They are expensive but are tough and can handle lots of vibration, temperature swings, knocks etc. They have a gravity feed aluminum body style. Don't trust your engine to a $10 chinese valve.

This is basically how I will build mine Very simple and i vents back like oe. Nice work Mule!!

 

[Mtnviper]

Anyone else come up with some ideas over summer?

I've updated my system to make it more simple, easy to use. Plus it is easier to install.
The original set-up I posted last Dec, used a control relay with a pressure sensor, and a normally closed tether switch wired in the conventional maner. The system worked well, however I was concerned about a relay failure causing the normally open shut off valve to be energized and closed with the engine running. Which is why I had a pressure sensor plus a power signal source for the warning LED.

Since then I have sourced a special multi-curcuit tether switch. With the new design I use the tether to shut down the engine like they normally do. Plus it controls power to the shut off solinoid! So either the engine is running with no power to the shut off valve (open). Or when the tether is pulled (key on) engine is off, valve is powered on to close it.
With this type of positive switching control, it is not possible for the valve electrically closed while the engine is running, for a very safe system.
No more relays, and pressure sensor. I still use a flashing red LED to indicate when ever there is power being supplied to the valve.
The factory kill switch still functions normally.
I use an automotive type, normally open valve. It is designed to with stand fuel/oil vapors, heat, cold, vibration, etc. Also it uses a weather pack connector to help seal out moisture in the connection. Normally open valves are safer to use, because if there is a power failure or solinoid coil failure the valve will just stay open and vent.
It is this version that myself, Spray and a few others are using.
If your wearing the tether, the system will fucntion automatically. Fall off the sled or roll it, the tether gets pulled. The engine shuts down and the valve closes. Flip your sled rubber side down, plug the tether back in, the valve opens and fire her back up. No hassles, mess, or oil loss, just ride!
I use it to get unstuck too. Sometimes its easier to roll a sled on its side to drag it around. In that situation I turn the key on, pull the tether, drag'er around, flip it up-right then plug the tether back in, and away you go.
It can be used in the same way for when you want to put the sled on its side. Such as making trail side suspension adjustments, inspections, etc.

 

[woodsrider]

Could you supply us with the part #'s of the components and possibly where you sourced them from? Thx