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Oil Breather Leak Fix?

r0tax

Pro
Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
182
Location
Whitefish, MT
Website
rotax.shorturl.com
Well, here is my attempt at solving or at least slowing the leaky oil breather issue. Specific to turbo Nytros.

As you can see in the pics, I routed the hose up and back down to dump near the chain case.
But ALSO before the peak of the arc, I installed a T fitting and attached a collector bottle.

Idea is when the sleds on its side, or upside down, the oil should run into this bottle.
And due to being on the tank side of the arc, when the sleds put back on its feet, the bottle will empty back through the T, and down back into the tank.

~$11 in parts..

Its a bit tight fit with the plastics on, but should still be effective.

08-12-0901oilbreather.jpg

08-12-0902oilbreather.jpg
 

the hose by the chain case needs to be open or you will back pressuethe system I actually put a slit in the hose about 3inches up from tyhe bottom just in case the end gets frozen closed by melted snow after you park or during extreme cold
 
Yellowknife said:
is it true that the hose needs to be in the airbox for pressure reasons? I feel hot air coming out of that hose when the engine is running.
Yes, the tank will build pressure if the vent is plugged while the engine is running. This could cause issues with the dry sump oiling system.
The vent hose is a large diameter, so pressure can vent quickly. To keep the tank pressure as close to atmosphere pressure as possible.
The vent hose is usually routed to the air box for emissions reasons. But it also vents the tank into "filtered air", to help prevent debries from entering into the oil tank.
 
should work fine, thats what I did on my trx and I used the same can I made for the trx on my nytro. I used 2" aluminum tube welded ends closed and welded spickets for the hoses. I ran the vent line from the valve cover into it as well. alittle more permanent than yours, but yours should work just as well. I added some baffle material in the can to help hold back the oil, and once you up right the sled, it drains back into the reservoir, or if you get alot of blow by under boost once you let out of the throttle it will drain back into the oil reservoir.
 
Back in the day we put a 1 way valve on the exhaust pipe near the collector. We hooked the crankcase breather hose up to this valve.
This helped evac the crank case and actually gave us a few HP on the Dyno. The AMA made them illegal so we cant run them anymore. This was done on the Yamaha Superbikes. Havn't tried it on a sled yet.
Just a thought.
Our race bikes get a lot of oil blow by in the air boxes. How much depends on the track and sustained engine RPM. We have a tank up stream that catches the residued. Its set up in such a way where when the engine is not running the oil runs back down into the crank case. The system needs to be vented to an open air space or you will blow seals. Also make sure the hose routing doesnt have any low spots where the oil can collect. This can also limit the venting of the crank case.
 
r0tax said:
Well, here is my attempt at solving or at least slowing the leaky oil breather issue. Specific to turbo Nytros.

As you can see in the pics, I routed the hose up and back down to dump near the chain case.
But ALSO before the peak of the arc, I installed a T fitting and attached a collector bottle.

Idea is when the sleds on its side, or upside down, the oil should run into this bottle.
And due to being on the tank side of the arc, when the sleds put back on its feet, the bottle will empty back through the T, and down back into the tank.

~$11 in parts..

Its a bit tight fit with the plastics on, but should still be effective.

08-12-0901oilbreather.jpg

08-12-0902oilbreather.jpg

I like the idea but after looking at my sled , I say to my self , I can't put the bottle in the same place as your picture says. I see your rad is moved down in favor of the intercooler. It seems according to your pic to have more room there for the bottle. I need to muster up more room or thik of something else similar.
 
this is what I am going to try, here is the item number on ebay, 290275624936 I dont know how to post a link so use that number in the search area on ebay. Its a 12 volt electric solenoid for $13.00. It should work, all a person needs to do is hook it up to a tether or the kill switch. When the power is cut off the valve will automatically close and no oil will spill out when upside down. Have a look it just may work, let me know what ya think. Maybe someone with better computer skills can post a link to it. thanks

Here is the part I ordered off of ebay, this should work slick as hell, I will be installing it tomorow. It is a normally closed valve, I tried it and no air or liquid will flow threw it untill 12 volt power is supplied to it. I am going to hook it up to a 12 volt relay, when the engine is running it will open and let the crank case pressure do its thing, when you turn your sled on its side just reach down and shut off the key or hit the kill switch or better yet have it hooked to a tether. this will shut off the power supply to the valve and it wont let the oil run out. here is a picture, it weighs probably 3 ounces.
 

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Maybe a stupid question here, but once you kill the power will it close automatically? Does the valve need power to close back up if it is normally closed?
 
towerrigger said:
Maybe a stupid question here, but once you kill the power will it close automatically? Does the valve need power to close back up if it is normally closed?

No, its a normally closed valve which means that when the power is cut off the spring inside it closes the valve and wont let anything out. I think Yamaha should do this and give me a free sled or something for the solution to this problem for them. :Rockon: :4STroke: ;)! :-o
 


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