Oil Change

**sj** said:
yamahas said:
It only has 170 miles?

It needs the oil and filter changed once it gets passed the break in period.

170 miles or 10 miles...its 6+ years of sitting with that oil...it needs that oil out right now!

I agree, I would have been leary even starting it up!

Also, I change my filter every year when I do my oil change in the spring after the season is over.

With my Vector it is easy to get at as it is right there beside my oil drain plug so I can't say with all certainty that I would change it every year if I owned an Apex, but that would also depend how many miles I put on it over the winter as well?
 
Like I said. It was change right away and the prior owner had also changed it. So another question, I got a mere 250 miles on my sled this year. Change it now or wait till fall? I typically like to put things away so they are ready to go......
 
Knowing that the old oil was more than likely acidic/contaminated.... if the $40 isn't gonna break your son, change it again.

I'd leave the filter though, but fresh oil again.

P.S. You guys do know about the crankcase drain plug, right? The one behind the plastic panel on the bellypan, allen head with an arrow/triangle pointing to it.
 
Is the yamaha filter the same on all sleds? My son got a yamalube change kit and is the filter part number 5dm 13440 00 for the apex which is the same one I have on my venture. Manual doesn't list part number oddly enough.
 
SAB1 said:
Is the yamaha filter the same on all sleds? My son got a yamalube change kit and is the filter part number 5dm 13440 00 for the apex which is the same one I have on my venture. Manual doesn't list part number oddly enough.

Yes, all the same.

However, you can put a slightly larger filter on the Apex if you so choose. Not a "Yamaha" filter, but an aftermarket.
 
SAB1 said:
Like I said. It was change right away and the prior owner had also changed it. So another question, I got a mere 250 miles on my sled this year. Change it now or wait till fall? I typically like to put things away so they are ready to go......

Sorry Saab, didn't see your post where you said you had already changed it.

I also agree with Catman, change your oil in the spring, especially on your sled but imo that is always the best time to change it.
 
Thanks Irv. Next Saturdays project. Oil and chaincase oil change. Never done a chaincase but seems straight forward.
 
SAB1 said:
Thanks Irv. Next Saturdays project. Oil and chaincase oil change. Never done a chaincase but seems straight forward.

It is SAB1, nothing to it.
In this link the 3rd pic down shows the bolt, it's a 12 mm, just remove it, drain, reinstall, add 8 to 8-1/2 oz's of gear oil in the dipstick hole and you're done.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... 20prt1.htm
 
Awesome. Thanks. I was looking for info on that but couldnt find it. I never grew up as much of a "wrench" since my dad knew little about fixing cars etc. I bought a bike a few years back and like the snowmobile none of my friends have them. But I found a website with tons of guys that ride my bike and they have a huge tech section that details so many parts of the bike to fix all with step by step description and photos that I can do some stuff myself. This is great info you sent! Thanks again. I didnt see it the tech section or missed it somehow.
 
SAB1 said:
Awesome. Thanks. I was looking for info on that but couldnt find it. I never grew up as much of a "wrench" since my dad knew little about fixing cars etc. I bought a bike a few years back and like the snowmobile none of my friends have them. But I found a website with tons of guys that ride my bike and they have a huge tech section that details so many parts of the bike to fix all with step by step description and photos that I can do some stuff myself. This is great info you sent! Thanks again. I didnt see it the tech section or missed it somehow.

Mtce etc is usually intimidating to most, especially if you haven't been subjected to it in some form or another growing up, but like most things, until you actually get your hands dirty you never know how easy it actually is or can be at times.
I do what I can and do most myself but I will admit, there are things that still intimidate me that I likely wouldn't do myself, especially electrical type jobs, I leave those for someone who does know for sure.

The link I posted is from the "sticky" near the top of this section, not from the TY TECH link at the top of this page.
Also, if you can't find something you are after, try Google as I have had good luck with that and it usually finds something for me right from TY.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=42869
 
theCATman said:
I hear ya, but I can see where Yamaha is coming from.

The engine isn't exposed to dirt, so really the only thing the filter is trapping would be possibly a few metal shavings. And after a 1,000 miles on a new engine, there shouldn't be any of that either.

The little bit of oil in the filter is just that, very little. I change oil in both sleds every spring regardless of miles put on, but do the filter every other year.

I agree and that is what I do as well.
 
theCATman said:
Kaz said:
theCATman said:
Airbox & battery have to come out for filter access. Not the headlight.

To remove the air box you need to remove the head light assembly. With the head light out of the way you can access to the clamps holding the air box boots on the carbs.
PS: check the tech section on how to's, lots of pic's of what needs to come off.
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Complete.pdf

Kaz

Sorry, but you're wrong.

I guess if you either...

A: wanna make more work for yourself you remove the headlight assy

B: don't own any long reach screwdrivers to access the THROTTLE BODY clamps

I've changed oil/filter & batteries on two Apex's, one Vector, & one RS Nytro. Never once did I remove the headlight assy to remove & replace the airbox. The only time I had the headlight assy off was to change sparkplugs & exhaust donuts on my Apex.

I guess that I never even considered leaving the headlight assembly installed when removing the airbox because it seems to me that removing the headlight assembly makes the job of removing the airbox easier and it is only two bolts which take only a minute to remove. Your sled must be different than mine if you are using long reach screwdrivers to remove the throttle body to airbox boot clamps. I use a long T handle ball end allen wrench because my clamps have allen head bolts.
 
**sj** said:
yamahas said:
It only has 170 miles?

It needs the oil and filter changed once it gets passed the break in period.

170 miles or 10 miles...its 6+ years of sitting with that oil...it needs that oil out right now!

That's for sure!
 
yamahas said:
**sj** said:
yamahas said:
It only has 170 miles?

It needs the oil and filter changed once it gets passed the break in period.

170 miles or 10 miles...its 6+ years of sitting with that oil...it needs that oil out right now!

That's for sure!

ABSOLUTELY .....All the grease and oil in that sled from sitting for so long has broken down, of course if it has sat for that long untouched.
 


Back
Top