Oil/filter change & chain case oil change in 08 Vector?

[Irv]

I know this question has probably been asked a 1000 times but for the life of me I can't find it in the search section?

Maybe it is my computer(can't send PM's either?)but after I typed in Vector oil change I get a sheet load of threads which I have to scroll through only to find out it may say oil or change in the thread but I can't find the specific answers I am looking for?

Anyways, I just changed the oil/filter(drained) and in my owners manual it states, add 1 1/2 litres of oil to the tank, run engine and check level?
It doesn't state to add the other 1 ltr anywhere?

Also, assuming my manual is correct, it states it takes a full 2 1/2 ltr's of oil with the filter change but it doesn't say if it "ALL" gets added directly to the oil tank?
Does any get added directly to the motor or does it all go in the side oil tank?

Gear case, how do you change the oil in it, is there a drain plug or do I have to take it apart to get the oil out? (could pump/syphon it out I suppose?) I would like to clean it and adjust the chain but I would like to see what it looks like in there too.
I just purchased this sled used(3400km's/2100 miles) and I want to thoroughly go over it and check and change all required fluids just to be safe.

It is an 08 RS Vector GT 40th anniversary edition (3cyl 120hp model)
Any and all help would be appreciated Thanks ........Irv

 

[Vector Julie]

Re: Oil/filter change & chain case oil change in 08 Vect

I know this question has probably been asked a 1000 times but for the life of me I can't find it in the search section?

Maybe it is my computer(can't send PM's either?)but after I typed in Vector oil change I get a sheet load of threads which I have to scroll through only to find out it may say oil or change in the thread but I can't find the specific answers I am looking for?

Anyways, I just changed the oil/filter(drained) and in my owners manual it states, add 1 1/2 litres of oil to the tank, run engine and check level?
It doesn't state to add the other 1 ltr anywhere?

Also, assuming my manual is correct, it states it takes a full 2 1/2 ltr's of oil with the filter change but it doesn't say if it "ALL" gets added directly to the oil tank?

Assuming you have drained all the old oil out, sump of engine, filter, oil tank and reinstalled the drain plugs.

1- Add 1 1/2 litres of new oil to the tank.
2- Run engine for 3-5 minutes. Shut off engine and check for leaks.
3- Fill oil tank until oil level checks midway on hatched area of dip stick. Note: do not thead dip stick in when checking oil level, just drop it in until it bottoms out.

Drain plug for the chaincase is located inside tunnel at bottom of chaincase. Takes about 8oz to refill. Don't loose the washer thats behind the head of drainplug.
Does any get added directly to the motor or does it all go in the side oil tank?

Gear case, how do you change the oil in it, is there a drain plug or do I have to take it apart to get the oil out? (could pump/syphon it out I suppose?) I would like to clean it and adjust the chain but I would like to see what it looks like in there too.
I just purchased this sled used(3400km's/2100 miles) and I want to thoroughly go over it and check and change all required fluids just to be safe.

It is an 08 RS Vector GT 40th anniversary edition (3cyl 120hp model)
Any and all help would be appreciated Thanks ........Irv

 

[Irv]

Re: Oil/filter change & chain case oil change in 08 Vect

I know this question has probably been asked a 1000 times but for the life of me I can't find it in the search section?

Maybe it is my computer(can't send PM's either?)but after I typed in Vector oil change I get a sheet load of threads which I have to scroll through only to find out it may say oil or change in the thread but I can't find the specific answers I am looking for?

Anyways, I just changed the oil/filter(drained) and in my owners manual it states, add 1 1/2 litres of oil to the tank, run engine and check level?
It doesn't state to add the other 1 ltr anywhere?

Also, assuming my manual is correct, it states it takes a full 2 1/2 ltr's of oil with the filter change but it doesn't say if it "ALL" gets added directly to the oil tank?

Assuming you have drained all the old oil out, sump of engine, filter, oil tank and reinstalled the drain plugs.

1- Add 1 1/2 litres of new oil to the tank.
2- Run engine for 3-5 minutes. Shut off engine and check for leaks.
3- Fill oil tank until oil level checks midway on hatched area of dip stick. Note: do not thead dip stick in when checking oil level, just drop it in until it bottoms out.

Drain plug for the chaincase is located inside tunnel at bottom of chaincase. Takes about 8oz to refill. Don't loose the washer thats behind the head of drainplug.
Does any get added directly to the motor or does it all go in the side oil tank?

Gear case, how do you change the oil in it, is there a drain plug or do I have to take it apart to get the oil out? (could pump/syphon it out I suppose?) I would like to clean it and adjust the chain but I would like to see what it looks like in there too.
I just purchased this sled used(3400km's/2100 miles) and I want to thoroughly go over it and check and change all required fluids just to be safe.

It is an 08 RS Vector GT 40th anniversary edition (3cyl 120hp model)
Any and all help would be appreciated Thanks ........Irv

Thanks Vector Julie, I ended up phoning a Yamaha dealer and he told me the same thing about the oil, seemed odd to only add 1 1/2 ltrs and run the engine that long but I guess it is safe?

Thanks for the info on the chain case as well, I never even thought to look inside the tunnel.
Appreciate your help

 

[Irv]

Just curious what is the main reason for only adding 1 1/2 ltrs first, run engine then add the other ltr?
Is it just to check for leaks?

I am thinking by only adding 1 1/2 first and running your engine you are probably doing more harm than good?
My oil light stayed on the whole time and I didn't feel comfortable doing it this way
I mean if your engine calls for 2 1/2 ltrs with filter change why not add it all the first time?
How many oil change places or back yard mechanics only half fill their vehicles, run them then add the other half?
Seems stupid to me

 

[Crewchief47]

This is a DRY sump motor, which means the surplus oil sits in the tank, not in the crankcase. The supply line for the oil pump is on the bottom of the tank, virtually eliminating the likelyhood of the pump starving for oil with 1.5L in the tank.

Unlike a wet sump motor where there is a clearance area below the oil pick-up, providing a potential starvation issue.

 

[Irv]

This is a DRY sump motor, which means the surplus oil sits in the tank, not in the crankcase. The supply line for the oil pump is on the bottom of the tank, virtually eliminating the likelyhood of the pump starving for oil with 1.5L in the tank.

Unlike a wet sump motor where there is a clearance area below the oil pick-up, providing a potential starvation issue.

Thanks for the explanation but I still don't understand it?
Is the MAIN reason to only add the 1 1/2 ltrs is to check for leaks?

I raised the front of my sled up with a floor jack to get as much of the old oil out of the engine and tank as possible, so when I refilled the oil tank with the 1 1/2 ltrs, was that still enough?

If the MAIN reason to only add 1 1/2 ltrs is to only check for leaks, then I think I will be adding at least 2 ltrs of oil next time and then take it from there?
Like I said, it made me nervous running the machine with the oil light on.

 

[Vectornut]

My dealer said to pour 2 ltrs into the tank and one ltr down the top of the engine where the cap is. Thats 3 ltrs in all (3.2 qts). Pouring in two ltrs and finishing up with the dip stick many times ends up over filling leading to oil going into the air box.

 

[Irv]

My dealer said to pour 2 ltrs into the tank and one ltr down the top of the engine where the cap is. Thats 3 ltrs in all (3.2 qts). Pouring in two ltrs and finishing up with the dip stick many times ends up over filling leading to oil going into the air box.

Thanks, I was wondering what the purpose of that top cap was?
I asked the dealer yesterday about it and he said you don't add oil through there?
I asked what the purpose of it was then and he never really gave me an answer?

I also thought I read somewhere in here about adding 3 ltrs but the manual says 2 1/2 with filter change??
Getting pretty confusing here, hope I did everything right and didn't hurt anything?


I just googled it and found this, seems there are differing ways of doing it?
I wonder what the exact way is?
I also just checked my oil and with the dip stick screwed all the way in it is barely touching the "L"
I have exactly 2 1/2 ltrs of oil in it but it is looking like it is possibly going to need 3 or close to it?
Do you follow the manual or go by the dip stick?
Makes me also wonder if running it like I did with only 1 1/2 ltrs of oil in, if I hurt anything?
I think next time I will definitely add a ltr down the top valve cover cap?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... 368613369d

 

[theCATman]

Irv.....You didn't hurt anything. Quit fretting over nothing.

Like was posted before, these are dry sump engines.

You add some oil to the tank, start it up, the oil circulates thru the system and then you shut it off. Let it stand for a couple minutes, check the dipstick, and add as needed to top it off.

This is also how you check the oil during the riding season too. You don't check them cold. You start the engine, let it warm up good, shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes, & then check the oil.

Checking it cold will almost always give an either false low OR false high reading, depending on how much oil stayed in the crankcase.

Also, as posted before, DO NOT overfill it or it'll puke the excess into the airbox, making a huge mess. Only add to the tank enough to bring it up 1/2 way on the checkers of the dipstick.

The purpose of the top cap on the valvecover..... Back when this engine was in DeltaBox I chassis there was an actual hood that opened & you could access the valvecover to add oil. When I had my '06 Nytro, I added about 1 quart thru the valvecover & 2 quarts into the tank when changing oil.

Well, now that this engine is in DB II chassis, there is no opening hood per say & no way to access the valvecover without taking 1/2 the sled apart. All the oil has to go thru the tank when filling.

 

[Irv]

Irv.....You didn't hurt anything. Quit fretting over nothing.

Like was posted before, these are dry sump engines.

You add some oil to the tank, start it up, the oil circulates thru the system and then you shut it off. Let it stand for a couple minutes, check the dipstick, and add as needed to top it off.

This is also how you check the oil during the riding season too. You don't check them cold. You start the engine, let it warm up good, shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes, & then check the oil.

Checking it cold will almost always give an either false low OR false high reading, depending on how much oil stayed in the crankcase.

Also, as posted before, DO NOT overfill it or it'll puke the excess into the airbox, making a huge mess. Only add to the tank enough to bring it up 1/2 way on the checkers of the dipstick.

The purpose of the top cap on the valvecover..... Back when this engine was in DeltaBox I chassis there was an actual hood that opened & you could access the valvecover to add oil. When I had my '06 Nytro, I added about 1 quart thru the valvecover & 2 quarts into the tank when changing oil.

Well, now that this engine is in DB II chassis, all the oil has to go thru the tank.

Woooh, good to hear!!
Just thought it might have been possible that the engine ran without any oil?
Thanks for alleviating my worries!

From here on in I think I will add 2 ltrs first as opposed to one and a half, as that should take care of the oil light staying on?

Appreciate your help Catman

 

[theCATman]

Yes, 2 quarts or 2 liters worth will stop the oil light from staying on.

The only reason the light was on is because there wasn't enough in the tank to cover the bottom of the dipstick, where the sensor is.

But believe me, there was enough going thru the system for what little you ran it. If you didn't hear any loud clacking from the valvetrain, it's fine.

 

[Elypsis]

Changed my oil today...a few questions:

1. Where is the cylinder head cap? It said to remove it to help drain the oil however I couldn't locate it and ended up just using the drain plugs on the bottom of the oil tank and the crankcase.

2. Man, that oil filter is one hard S.O.B to get off! Wrestled with mine for about half an hour with a filter wrench before using the old screwdriver through the filter trick...after that it was literally 2 minutes. Anyone else have fun with theirs?

3. I dumped in about 2.5 litres, ran the sled for 5 minutes until I felt the oil tank getting warm, then shut down and checked the oil level...was between H and L so I left it as is. Was expecting to use more oil for some reason, especially after the filter change. Did I run the sled long enough?

4. I poured in the new oil into the oil tank only...should I also have put the new oil in somewhere else? Still hung up about not finding the cylinder head cap (see item 1).

Thanks in advance folks...you sure make finding answers easy.

 

[jamesc]

i don't know why they ever referred to the valve cover oil cap there's no reason to use it for anything and on the 08 and up chassis it's a bear to get to.

as mentioned these engines are three stage (three different oil pumps) dry sump systems. there are two scavenge stages that pump oil from the bottom of the engine into the tank and one pressure stage that pumps oil from the tank into the engine. this is the pump that actually lubricates the engine. dry sump oiling systems are generally accepted to be the best way to lubricate an engine for a number of reasons. they minimize the amount of oil that's actually inside the engine which reduces windage. windage causes parasitic horsepower losses and can aerate the oil. the dry sump system is also superior in ensuring the pressure oil pump has a solid supply of oil that's not foamy. the thing to remember is that the pump that actually lubricates the engine is sucking oil from the tank, the other two suck it from the bottom of the engine and pump it into the tank, it's a loop.

i believe the total refill after draining the tank, engine oil pan and replacing the filter is around 3.5 qts. though it's nice to be spot on a little bit either way isn't a disaster. you'd have to way underfill the system to cause problems, if you overfill it you'll make a mess from it blowing out the tank vent system.

running the sled for five minutes is plenty of time to circulate the system it should have taken close to 3.5 qts.

imho you should always pour the new filter full of oil before installing it. this reduces the time it takes the engine to build pressure when restarted after oil/filter change. this is true for any type of oil system.

 

[jarmentrout]

I know this is going to sound dumb but can someone tell me where to look for the engine sump plug? I have changed the oil on a couple of carbd triples but have yet to find it. I have pulled the hose off the bottom of the tank and gotten a bunch of oil from there. But I can't find the sump drain plug.

 

[Irv]

Changed my oil today...a few questions:

1. Where is the cylinder head cap? It said to remove it to help drain the oil however I couldn't locate it and ended up just using the drain plugs on the bottom of the oil tank and the crankcase.

2. Man, that oil filter is one hard S.O.B to get off! Wrestled with mine for about half an hour with a filter wrench before using the old screwdriver through the filter trick...after that it was literally 2 minutes. Anyone else have fun with theirs?

3. I dumped in about 2.5 litres, ran the sled for 5 minutes until I felt the oil tank getting warm, then shut down and checked the oil level...was between H and L so I left it as is. Was expecting to use more oil for some reason, especially after the filter change. Did I run the sled long enough?

4. I poured in the new oil into the oil tank only...should I also have put the new oil in somewhere else? Still hung up about not finding the cylinder head cap (see item 1).

Thanks in advance folks...you sure make finding answers easy.

Cylinder head cap is under the cover between the handle bars and windshield, not necessary to add oil there and is not req'd for venting purposes imo.

I can see the factory oil filter being tight, just be sure when replacing it to put some oil the rubber o-ring before reinstalling.

I always try and get my oil as close to the full mark as possible, a little extra oil, or closer to the full mark than half up the dip stick is better imo.

I have added all my oil to the tank only, read lots of posts on here from others who do the same.