OIL leak!!

[jonlafon1]

updated Feb. 3. 2018. Changed it up and moved hose to under right foot

 

[ROCKERDAN]

This is me set up now. Have bunch of miles with it.

Just wondering why you want all those oil vapors and mess pooling up in your engine bay pan?

Not something I would want personally. But Im OCD. lol


I would also worry with no loop for volume, even the slightest tip over quickly(and then upright) would lose alot of oil into your pan....

And the heat behind muffler, would have me worried too, if that melts you got a fire fast.

 

[jonlafon1]

Just wondering why you want all those oil vapors and mess pooling up in your engine bay pan?

Not something I would want personally. But Im OCD. lol


I would also worry with no loop for volume, even the slightest tip over quickly(and then upright) would lose alot of oil into your pan....

And the heat behind muffler, would have me worried too, if that melts you got a fire fast.

All valid points. Not seeing the pooling of any moisture or anything in belly pan. Two holes in this area and my hose is 3mm away from one. I ran it with the roll over valve by passed and noticed the moisture and gunk going into air intake. I off trail 0%. I understand and respect your post Dan. I will eat crow if the hose melts with the heat tape on it

 

[snowbeast]

************ UPDATE************* OIL LEAK IS BACK!!!!!!!!!!! ******* 1500 MILES
Noticed my sled is leaking a SMALL amount of engine oil! This time along with the first time(probably related) I believe I have found the problem.. Its the check valve/roll over valve that is attached just below the turbo antifreeze case... See pic. So I noticed its leaking at the bottom of the oil case right at gasket again.. This time I caught it as its barely leaking much (1-2 drops a week in heated garage).. So first thing I do is warm it up and while doing so I unscrew the oil fill plug checking for case pressure and WOOLAH air coming from the oil fill plug as I unscrew it. Next I put my thumb over hole and hold air tight for 3-5 seconds and release and it damn near hisses at me!! The sleds RPM are fluctuating(200-300) as I put my thumb onto the oil fill hole and release the pressure that's building in tank ... (sleds idling )
. So I talk with service guy at dealer(who knows his #*$&@, and a TY member that knows his #*$&@ also)and dig in a little more. Kind of thinking its the check valve/roll over valve).. I check all hoses coming and going from oil case, find no kinks or zip ties to tight ETC. Next I start checking the hose that come out of the top of the oil case. I disconnect from check valve going each way and blow into the hose.. I try blowing into and past check valve after checking other side which goes into the bigger tube > and attached to air box.(no resistance at all).. I find it very hard to blow past the check valve.
At this point I actually feel relieved I got this oil leak thing figured.. So to double check my findings I go to hardware store and buy a plumbing fitting with male ends .. Disconnect both lines on check valve and bypass it all together with plumbing fitting.. Start sled and it idles PERFECT at 1800 for a bit then drops to 1500 and idles smooth.. Next unscrew oil fill plug and press thumb over hole for 3-5 seconds > no pressure.. Also sled continues to idle PERFECT. .Also did check the valve itself with a flash light and small screw driver.. I pushed on little ball inside valve and appeared to work fine and function fine>> APPEARED key word
Info relayed to dealer and they find me a part .. Thinking this valve was bad from day one.. Now it has failed completely and the next ride would have been BAD.. Case gasket would have blown again no doubt .. Just CAN NOT roll over sled with this valve disconnected View attachment 126681 View attachment 126682 View attachment 126683

Jon,in your first sections of pics,all you did was disconnect both hoses from the bad valve and reconnect the two back togeather,from what I can see here,and that was what I liked about the way you had done it,simple and easy.So have you now done it differently? Reason I ask is the new pics look much different,more like what mike knapp and rockerdan had done,am I crazy,am I seeing things?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

All valid points. Not seeing the pooling of any moisture or anything in belly pan. Two holes in this area and my hose is 3mm away from one. I ran it with the roll over valve by passed and noticed the moisture and gunk going into air intake. I off trail 0%. I understand and respect your post Dan. I will eat crow if the hose melts with the heat tape on it

Just please keep and eye on that hose for me....I would hate to see a fire. I saw a doo go up in flames earlier this season already and it sure sucked watching that.

Dan

 

[jonlafon1]

Just please keep and eye on that hose for me....I would hate to see a fire. I saw a doo go up in flames earlier this season already and it sure sucked watching that.

Dan

For sure. It's 4-6 away from muffler as I have a turbo force TD muffler. Ii is a lot smaller then stock. The wrap is not just the thin tin foil. It,s double wrapped with really thick heat tape. 600 miles so far. Looking good. On another subject.
The dalton black and orange is to much tension in secondary spring. With the straight 38 helix the stock spring is my only option. Seems with a steeper helix my set up does not like stiffer secondary spring. I know you might be interested in this.

 

[jonlafon1]

Jon,in your first sections of pics,all you did was disconnect both hoses from the bad valve and reconnect the two back togeather,from what I can see here,and that was what I liked about the way you had done it,simple and easy.So have you now done it differently? Reason I ask is the new pics look much different,more like what mike knapp and rockerdan had done,am I crazy,am I seeing things?

I saw way to much moisture and gunk in the intake air area just running straight through By pass. I took air filter off and loooked into air intake area with flash light. Lots of moisture especially in cold temps. Big draw back running it straight though without roll over valve.

 

[snowbeast]

I saw way to much moisture and gunk in the intake air area just running straight through By pass. I took air filter off and loooked into air intake area with flash light. Lots of moisture especially in cold temps. Big draw back running it straight though without roll over valve.

Ok,i have CAI on and not stock box,would I have same problem as you did when you had it connected togeather and into stock box?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

The dalton black and orange is to much tension in secondary spring. With the straight 38 helix the stock spring is my only option. Seems with a steeper helix my set up does not like stiffer secondary spring. I know you might be interested in this.

How can that be?

My B/O has very light torsional pressure at 6/1. (only 14psi avg)

Where did you set it at?

Can you test with fish scale?

 

[jonlafon1]

How can that be?

My B/O has very light torsional pressure at 6/1. (only 14psi avg)

Where did you set it at?

Can you test with fish scale?

has
It has to be the straight 38 helix. I have tons of belt dust with TP orange. Now same same with Dalton black orange. Tried 3/3. Now 3/2. Dust all over secondary. Rpm down on top. It's too much tension with the steep helix. It won't pull it open all the way. 8dn or XS. Don't have fish scale. Going back to last years set up with stock secondary spring . Why I even changed to another spring is beyond me? Dont have fish scale

 

[jonlafon1]

Ok,i have CAI on and not stock box,would I have same problem as you did when you had it connected togeather and into stock box?

The moisture has to go somewhere? Not sure on the CAI

 

[XP123]

For sure. It's 4-6 away from muffler as I have a turbo force TD muffler. Ii is a lot smaller then stock. The wrap is not just the thin tin foil. It,s double wrapped with really thick heat tape. 600 miles so far. Looking good. On another subject.
The dalton black and orange is to much tension in secondary spring. With the straight 38 helix the stock spring is my only option. Seems with a steeper helix my set up does not like stiffer secondary spring. I know you might be interested in this.

This is a surprise to me. I always thought a stiffer secondary spring would result in higher rpm's not lower. I've gone back and forth with 33/35 and 35 helix along with TP orange and Dalton black orange and my Rpm's have been right around 8900-9000 RPM's in any combination.

 

[jonlafon1]

This is a surprise to me. I always thought a stiffer secondary spring would result in higher rpm's not lower. I've gone back and forth with 33/35 and 35 helix along with TP orange and Dalton black orange and my Rpm's have been right around 8900-9000 RPM's in any combination.

I totally agree but it's not the case with a straight 38 with the TP heavy hitters. I'm baffled with what I'm seeing. Tons of belt dust in secondary. TONS. I just don't think it's pulling secondary open with heavy spring and 38.

 

[snowbeast]

I totally agree but it's not the case with a straight 38 with the TP heavy hitters. I'm baffled with what I'm seeing. Tons of belt dust in secondary. TONS. I just don't think it's pulling secondary open with heavy spring and 38.

Jon which secondary spring are you now running and having problem with? Do you have Dalton orange/blk,i have it,and want to give it a try once my skid is all set,dale said it has less pressure because of its 5 coils vrs the tpi 4 coil orange,saids same as stock as far as wind goes,maybe give it a try at 6/1 for 70.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

has
It has to be the straight 38 helix. I have tons of belt dust with TP orange. Now same same with Dalton black orange. Tried 3/3. Now 3/2. Dust all over secondary. Rpm down on top. It's too much tension with the steep helix. It won't pull it open all the way. 8dn or XS. Don't have fish scale. Going back to last years set up with stock secondary spring . Why I even changed to another spring is beyond me? Dont have fish scale

The dalton B/O should be set at 6/1, not 3/3 and def not 3/2.

A steeper helix like your 38 will have LESS backpressure when shifted out, as the steeper angle does not go as far outward. So the roller travels less distance outward meaning spring rotates less distance.

I keep hearing all kinds of diff feedback on twist. I really think maybe some guys are not doing it right? Im not sure how anyone can do it wrong, but I just dont get it.

This is why I think everyone needs to check it with fishscale, so we can tell if its right twist or not.

This yr its coming up alot, and the reason is cause we are now talking about 3 diff springs. It was easy last season as we all were using stock spring. But now we have two more springs in which they both do not use the same twist as stock.

TP Orange needs to be set it 40 degrees IMO(3/1) and the Dalton B/O should be set at 70(6/1) While these numbers sound totally diff, they both end up darn near same torsionally. Its cause each spring manufacturer has done things abit diff then eachother. Both work well and the stocker worked OK too last season at 70 if I recall.

Dan