Oil

[copo427ss]

To clarify the starter clutch is a one way roller clutch. Like a bearing but ment to spin in one direction and lock in the other. There are no friction disc clutch plates like grader said. So that said, wet clutch compatible oil doesn't matter in these engines. What does matter is the zinc content in the oil. Since EPA has made oil manufacturers cut the zinc to almost non existent numbers In most oil, cams have been rounding out and bearings failing prematurely. I've been running mobile 1 but I'm having a feeling the the zinc has been cut back In that too

I can't imagine any roller cam rounding out. Maybe a flat tappet cam with huge lift but not a roller.

Yes flat tappet cams I'm referring to. But if you think about it the overhead cams in our sleds are not roller either. The lobes slide on the valve buckets. What I see more of is valve train failure in the dirt bikes. Titanium valves beaten into the valve seat and cupped out. Mostly in honda crf. Car oil has the least amount of zinc in it. Which is why I was saying I'm kinda skeptical of mobil 1 car oil

 

[Irv]

To clarify the starter clutch is a one way roller clutch. Like a bearing but ment to spin in one direction and lock in the other. There are no friction disc clutch plates like grader said. So that said, wet clutch compatible oil doesn't matter in these engines. What does matter is the zinc content in the oil. Since EPA has made oil manufacturers cut the zinc to almost non existent numbers In most oil, cams have been rounding out and bearings failing prematurely. I've been running mobile 1 but I'm having a feeling the the zinc has been cut back In that too

I can't imagine any roller cam rounding out. Maybe a flat tappet cam with huge lift but not a roller.

Yes flat tappet cams I'm referring to. But if you think about it the overhead cams in our sleds are not roller either. The lobes slide on the valve buckets. What I see more of is valve train failure in the dirt bikes. Titanium valves beaten into the valve seat and cupped out. Mostly in honda crf. Car oil has the least amount of zinc in it. Which is why I was saying I'm kinda skeptical of mobil 1 car oil

The European car oils are not regulated like North American car oils so their formulas differ from ours.
That is why I use the 0W-40 Euro Mobil-1 as it contains higher levels of ZDDP compared to NA oils.

 

[Mad Russian]

I run ENEOS #1 oil in japan ... Made for high revving high hp 4 bangers ... Thats what we got in our sleds ... 0w20 full synthetic... Made by japan for the japanes engines .. So i really dont see a downside with this product...

 

[upei93]

Three years ago when I bought my first 4 stroke I said to myself I'm going to get away from the great 2 stroke oil debate...come to find out it is just as bad or maybe worst in the 4 stroke world lol For what its worth...I use Castrol 0-30 syntec European formula and I sleep at night...I know of at least 2 Yamaha 4-strokes that have over 20,000 KMs on them using Castrol Syntec 5-w30 non European formula oil which has friction modifires and not enough zinc and they both still start everytime you turn the key.

 

[slimjim2525]

I use Mobil 1 0w30. Hope that's good enough. I used 5w30 Mobil 1 last year with no issues. But some here are skeptical of car oils, not sure why.

 

[Irv]

I use Mobil 1 0w30. Hope that's good enough. I used 5w30 Mobil 1 last year with no issues. But some here are skeptical of car oils, not sure why.

Lots use Mobil 0W-30 and some even use 0W-20 without issue so you have nothing to worry about imo.

 

[DaveRX1]

Isn't there a clutch on the starter that's wet?

It is more of a one way bearing......


Also, I used 5-30 castrol GTX conventional oil for the 5 years I had my 03 rx1, no issues.

 

[harrysmith500]

I'm choosing between Amsoil Sig. Series 0-30, Amsoil Power Sports 0-40, Mobil 1 0-40, and Valvoline Premium Blue Syn 5-40 (Diesel Oil)

 

[darv]

I use to work for omg company as a service rep I don't understand why you guys think that the oil the manufactures say to use is so bad do you think that they like to pay for warranty claims. The problems never start the first couple of years but down the line when it is on its second owner and they start to complain an I'm the guy that has to say sorry I can't help you because it is not are fault that some one used the wrong product in the engine. Not trying to start a big fight here but I can't understand you guys.

 

[grader]

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 311a8c5d70


some oil reading.

 

[Geezer 2]

One good response and some good data seems to have trumped opinions. That was good info. I found the info on diesel requirements surprising. Thanks for sharing.

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

Grader: Thanx for the oil article. I wonder if the huge discrepancy in load carrying capacity/film strength between Pennzoil Ultra 5W30 (115,612 psi) and Pennzoil Ultra 5W20 (86,034 psi) has ever been explained? That's 34.38% better protection from the same manufacturers' 30 weight oil vs their 20 weight. If this holds true for all, I think a switch from the recommended 5W20 in my 09 F150 to the apparently far superior protection of 5W30 is to be considered. At least for the summer months. Or, are the vehicle mfrs. running things closer and closer to the edge to comply with stricter epa standards or win the mpg bragging rights title. Dodge-oops RAM is trumpeting 36 MPG from a full size 1/2 ton (RAM 1500) with their Pentastar V6. I'll bet 5W20 is the recommended oil.

 

[VT_BluYamaha54]

With gas prices in the high $3...... 1 oild change a year with Yamalube ........ not really a big deal is it? What do you save? $10? I am not sure, don't even know the costs. Don't want to know the costs. I know that I run what the manufacturer makes. If I ran a polaris, it would have polaris oil. My Harley got Harley oil when I had it........

I know enough about oil to know I don't know anything about oil. I am betting that is 99% of the people in this world.

Yes, and here is The piece of this I don't get:

Yamaha doesn't own a refinery so does anyone think they make "their oil"? Someone else makes that oil and as long as we use an oil that meets their published spec, it's all just noise.
My 04 Warrior is supposedly one of the "oil burners" but I have used Mobil 1 since shortly after break in and I now have 12k+ miles w/o issues.

 

[blue er]

5w20 is all about fuel mileage from all my reading. 30/40 weight oils have better protection ect.
i use amsoil in my sled zero issues with burn off 0w40 powersports oil, from 08 to 10 used ams ow30 synthetic oil again no problems with burn off
at the end of the day any high quality oil will work if it's the right grade i would prefer to use yamalube but everytime i am at the dealer the full syn is backordered
gear oil is always castrol syntec 75w90 in the sled, i believe that with the extra heat that comes with the poor heat transfer properties of magniesium chaincase full syn is a requirement for the high speed running i do.
other yams in the group oil is always burn't or seal is blown out problem seems to go away with the syn oil.
as for zinc additives, they greatly reduce friction and wear in moving parts, but they get used up very quickly, many race oils contain high quantitys of it but are rarely good past 2000 miles.
If i remember correctly the joe gibbs 5w20 race oil has some of the highest amounts of zinc in it

 

[Sled Dog]

does the starter clutch have a bunch of fiber plates stacked together that can slip? in the 10 years since the rx1, has a starter malfunctioned because of the oil?

No its more of a Sprag bearing but Yamaha calls it the clutch assembly and it most definitely is bathed in oil so its wet. Friction modifiers can cause this clutch assemby to slip. Here is some good reading on this clutch and yes they too call it a clutch and its wet so it is a wet clutch.

http://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/Sta ... lutch.html

It also states how to fix the sprag from slipping is to shorten the spring to make it fit snugger and this is what I believe was my problem I put the new used one in and it fit much snugger than mine did. Mind you mine showed no real signs of wear on the gear or on the sprag if it fails again I am just going to shorten the spring and reinstall it.