TurboTime
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ROCKERDAN said:TotallyNytro said:ROCKERDAN said:changing from Redline 0w20 to mobile 1 0w20,mainly cause i can get it cheaper locally then redline....both awesome IMO.
sticking with the redline shockproof lightweight gear oil for chaincase,great stuff.
Dan
Has anyone used 5 - 30W synthec in there apex's ... Pros Cons?
Thanks,
KI
5 w30 would be fine....it wont be quite is good in extreme cold starting(5w)...then a 0w would be.
I ran 5w 20 from redline for two seasons no prob....i think O starting weight is only needed for extreme cold mornings.
mobile 1 has several weights in jugs at walmart for 22 bucks,i think most common would be 0w30 or 5w30 for normal riding...the key here is synthetic after initial break in of motor.
Dan
I figured as much.....
Thanks Dan...
KI
Apex2006RTX
Extreme
has anyone used esso brand. It does contain zinc and its 0w40 nd the price is rite. $5.00 a litre.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
0W40 amsoil... one of the best in synthetics. they spend alot of time on the race track testing their product, yes it costs a bit more... but the protection is remarkable... Why cheep out on oil.
What happens to your body if you have shitty blood??? then why cheep out on your motors blood!
What happens to your body if you have shitty blood??? then why cheep out on your motors blood!
Super Sled
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sherlock29 said:0W40 amsoil... one of the best in synthetics. they spend alot of time on the race track testing their product, yes it costs a bit more... but the protection is remarkable... Why cheep out on oil.
What happens to your body if you have shitty blood??? then why cheep out on your motors blood!
Excellent point, Sherlock!
BTW, your Avatar makes me dizzy. Nice scenery though
Amsoil 0W-40 and 2 oz. of ZDDPlus.
http://www.zddplus.com/
Adding the ZDDPlus is probably overkill, but given the fact that these are flat tappet engines, I'd rather risk too much zinc than not enough.
I use ZDDPlus in my '70 Corvette, also.
http://www.zddplus.com/
Adding the ZDDPlus is probably overkill, but given the fact that these are flat tappet engines, I'd rather risk too much zinc than not enough.
I use ZDDPlus in my '70 Corvette, also.
ROCKERDAN
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WFO said:Amsoil 0W-40 and 2 oz. of ZDDPlus.
http://www.zddplus.com/
Adding the ZDDPlus is probably overkill, but given the fact that these are flat tappet engines, I'd rather risk too much zinc than not enough.
I use ZDDPlus in my '70 Corvette, also.
just so you know,that amsoil 0w40 has PLENTY of zinc in it already,since its NOT an AUTOMOTIVE OIL and does NOT fall into the EPA regulations of 800PPM zinc/phos levels.
personally I WOULD NOT ADD MORE ZINC to that oil.
the amsoil 0w40 is probably the best oil for our sleds you can run for protection....anything lighter will fall into the automotive EPA REGS which have reduced ZINC/PHOS and wont protect as well(yes including mobile 1)....so add ZDDP to your AUTO weight oils(20 and 30 viscosity's)
if you want lighter oils(20 or 30 weights) to create MORE HP AND MORE TOP SPEED, get a race type oil which has higher levels of zinc already.
Dan
Dan...........Thanks for the information. Out of curiosity, what is the danger of having too much zinc in the oil??
ROCKERDAN
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WFO said:Dan...........Thanks for the information. Out of curiosity, what is the danger of having too much zinc in the oil??
Honestly i dont know,but the last 2-3 weeks ive been digging up as much as i can on oil research....and there is alot of conflicting info and opinions out there for sure!...some say too much zddp will mess things up,and others swear by it!
i still feel that no matter what oil you run,we will never see a failure due to oil brand or visc.....the jury is out on hi VS lowered zinc/phos levels...everytime a race builder brings up this question,the oil companys swear the 800ppm levels of today automotive oils are PLENTY HI enough for ALL MOTORS(even flat tappet) as long as the older motors are broke in already(that last statement always bugs me,says to me it doesnt protect as well)
so in the end,run what you like....there is alot of testimony out there that says 20 and 30 weights will "USE' oil and need to be adding oil more often due to "blowback" into the airbox of the thinner oils(not burning)...the 40 weight in amsoil and now yamalube seems to address this issue well,and i recommend amsoil 0w40 for overal best protection with no worries.
for us who want the extra HP and speed ,we like a lighter oil...i have always run a 5w20 since breakin myself.....redline originally and its great!
this season i switched to mobile 1 5w20 cause wallys has it so cheap,and always easy to find....but then after research came to find out zinc levels have been reduced since 05 alot in these AUTO WEIGHT oils(EPA REGS)
so i will add ZDDP to my mobile 1 20 weight cause it has so little in it from factory...
Im looking into the amsoil RACE OIL for next change....since they make a 5w20 with higher levels of zinc,but i need to research that completely to be sure its OK with our starters.
Dan
helmic
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I Sold oil for years and whent on all there seminars.Now there is only a couple of refinerys out there,you can have esso,petro canada,penzoil etc
comming from the same place.That said yamaha lube and cat oil, doo oil
all those oils are out for bids every couples of years so you never know who is making them good or bad could be good one year but not the next.
Now with my experience All oils start with a base oil and the best base oil comes from Venezuela.Now Shell and Ultramar use that base oil.both oil are the same just not the same price.I have been using both brands for years in my 105hp Tractor for blowing snow,in my Hog,VW deisel,Tundra, lawn mower etc.The best weight for all around is 5w40 synthetics.I Used to sell this oil to a frightliner company,at one time they had a motor appart to do maintenance with 1000,000km and the inside was still like new.That was after using 5w40 Shell synthetic every 5000km now that was proof enough for me.
comming from the same place.That said yamaha lube and cat oil, doo oil
all those oils are out for bids every couples of years so you never know who is making them good or bad could be good one year but not the next.
Now with my experience All oils start with a base oil and the best base oil comes from Venezuela.Now Shell and Ultramar use that base oil.both oil are the same just not the same price.I have been using both brands for years in my 105hp Tractor for blowing snow,in my Hog,VW deisel,Tundra, lawn mower etc.The best weight for all around is 5w40 synthetics.I Used to sell this oil to a frightliner company,at one time they had a motor appart to do maintenance with 1000,000km and the inside was still like new.That was after using 5w40 Shell synthetic every 5000km now that was proof enough for me.
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Talk to mike Knapp about what heavier weight oil does. He was running 30 weight and switched to 0w-40 and all of the sudden sleds he could beat were beating him. He went back to the lighter weight and walla, he could beat them again. If I get another Attak the heaviest I will run is 0w-30. Maybe 0w-20.
Just use a quality oil........
Just use a quality oil........
Mighty
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On a side note; some think heavier oil protects better. False! Heavier oil may not be able to get into the tight spaces that lighter weigh oil can. Like I said; use a quality oil that isn't going to shear and break down and you will actually get better protection from a quality lightweight synthetic. Unless you have an old sloppy worn out engine that would need thicker oil.....
Apex2006RTX
Extreme
Will what is a quality oil that i can get in a 0w30 weight.
Mighty
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amsoil and Mobil 1 for starters.
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
0-20w AMSOIL SYN with 10oz LUCAS FULL SYN makes for a good viscosity and tackey oil for me..
05candyredrx1
Veteran
Mobil 1 0w30... easy to find, 3rd year...no problems
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