happy1426
Expert
i sent my shocks all down to carver performance to get them rebuild and now that there all back on dealer put them on, and went over everything this year! im finding my ski on the front is coming up high when i try turning fast and it wasnt that bad last year i really got a slow down now and it lifts the ski so high any ideas whats goin on here??
yox185
TY 4 Stroke Master
Try lowering compression 1 click at a time. Also make sure your springs are low on the preload.
gsxr
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The shocks are probably a little tighter compression dampening and likely new carbide runners. The compression dampening will seem like stiffer springs keeping the sled from rolling to the outside of the corner, also driving the ski into the snow harder for less push and more grip, same as the new runners do. You will like it as you get used to it , but will have to hang out a little farther to the inside and ride a little more aggressive.
gsxr
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ttt
gsxr
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The shocks are probably a little tighter compression dampening and likely new carbide runners. The compression dampening will seem like stiffer springs keeping the sled from rolling to the outside of the corner, also driving the ski into the snow harder for less push and more grip, same as the new runners do. You will like it as you get used to it , but will have to hang out a little farther to the inside and ride a little more aggressive.
happy1426
Expert
my shocks are the fox floats so im not sure about spring compression and all that i never checked the air yet to see what its at?? but same carbides as last year they said there still good.
gsxr
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Ok different story ,
try air about 65 for soft riding , 75 for aggressive ride , with weight off sled !
More air pressure is like more spring pressure , easy to fix !
try air about 65 for soft riding , 75 for aggressive ride , with weight off sled !
More air pressure is like more spring pressure , easy to fix !
gsxr
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Ok different story ,
try air about 65 for soft riding , 75 for aggressive ride , with weight off sled !
More air pressure is like more spring pressure , easy to fix !
try air about 65 for soft riding , 75 for aggressive ride , with weight off sled !
More air pressure is like more spring pressure , easy to fix !
happy1426
Expert
ok so try 65 and see how it goes more air makes it easier to steer or harder to steer???
gsxr
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More air is like tightening the ski shock springs , firmer ride , more ski pressure on the snow. Also as the pressure is upped the ski slides less on the corner giving you the inside ski lift.
snoman
Expert
45 or 50 on my fox floats works great
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Cut back on your TRANSFER ROD, what is it set at, I cut back on mine to 1/4 from MINIMUM and made a HUGE improvement, a little less traction out of the hole but gained big time in corners and ski lift, it handles a lot nicer and more predictable coming out of corners.
Cobalt
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Good luck with your carver re valve! I did it last year and my 07 RTX was a Stone Boat!! My friend bought my RTX and sent them back to him due to stiffness and his much lighter weight and when they came back it was still terrible? He sent them back for the third time now, hopefully it will ride a little better! As far as bottoming out he could have jumped it off a building and it would not have bottomed out!
Cobalt
Your 06 Mono could be different though?
Cobalt
Your 06 Mono could be different though?
happy1426
Expert
ill be honest just got out from partying lol the whole transfer rod thing im not a whole 100% sure or know what ya guys are talking about , but ya coming down hard today of banks and jumps no worries about bottoming out!! But i will check air pressure tommorow and see what its at just i know it steered a hell of alot better last winter for sure!! But we had races today and i cleaned house even with my studs almost wore out and with 10 000 miles on it lol just getting broke in!! But i hope i figure out this transfer rod thing!!
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I found this article that explain pretty good the function of transfer rod...and pics on HOW TO.
The Adjustable Control Rod System is used to adjust weight transfer and acts as a floating link between the front and rear suspension arms. Under acceleration, the front of the sled raises while the rear suspension arm compresses, transferring weight from the front to the rear. The control rod is connected to the rear arm, and extends while the rear arm compresses. When the control rod reaches its maximum length it couples the front and rear arms stopping the weight transfer action. The control rod’s maximum length can be adjusted which adjusts when the suspension is coupled. By increasing the maximum length it will increase the weight transfer. Reducing the maximum length reduces the weight transfer. The adjuster is threaded and can be turned in or out to allow more or less rod movement and weight transfer. The total range of the adjuster is 20mm with the standard position set in the middle. This means that there is 10mm on either side for more or less transfer depending on what an individual likes. An adjuster wrench is provided in the tool kit with measuring marks and indicators for standard, minimum and maximum settings. Before adjusting the control rod, clean the threads and use a spray lube before moving the locknut and adjuster.
The Adjustable Control Rod System is used to adjust weight transfer and acts as a floating link between the front and rear suspension arms. Under acceleration, the front of the sled raises while the rear suspension arm compresses, transferring weight from the front to the rear. The control rod is connected to the rear arm, and extends while the rear arm compresses. When the control rod reaches its maximum length it couples the front and rear arms stopping the weight transfer action. The control rod’s maximum length can be adjusted which adjusts when the suspension is coupled. By increasing the maximum length it will increase the weight transfer. Reducing the maximum length reduces the weight transfer. The adjuster is threaded and can be turned in or out to allow more or less rod movement and weight transfer. The total range of the adjuster is 20mm with the standard position set in the middle. This means that there is 10mm on either side for more or less transfer depending on what an individual likes. An adjuster wrench is provided in the tool kit with measuring marks and indicators for standard, minimum and maximum settings. Before adjusting the control rod, clean the threads and use a spray lube before moving the locknut and adjuster.
