Open all windows? Fully clipped track?

[Grassfirebob]

My son has an '06 Attak. Stock except for an Excel exhaust, C&A skis, and studs. Stock track.

The problem: Ratchets bad when he hits it hard. Track is as tight as it should be.

I'm no mechanic wiz but I was told to get Wahl brothers anti-slip drivers. I emailed Wahl tech support and they gave me the part #'s to order. They arrived but the drivers used the track window. Since it is a stock track, every 3rd window is closed.

My question is what do I do now. options:
A) Return the drivers
B) Keep them and work on the track by either:
1) Getting a new fully clipped track (the most expensive option)
2) I've seen references to "cutting" open the closed windows.
If I do that, what tool? Will it substantially weaken the track?
Do I need to clip the newly opened windows? What tool for that?

I'm not necessarily looking to go cheap...just want to solve the anti-ratchet problem.

THANKS GUYS!

 

[Sled Dog]

You can open up the windows with a razor knife or box cutter whatever you want to call them. I dont believe you would have to clip the track but even if you did its not a big deal just ask your dealer if you can borrow the tools to clip the track. A few hours of cutting and your done. It will not weaken the track to open the windows.

 

[APEX 06]

Use motor oil to help cut the track. Don't cut pass the window keep them the same size as the rest. You don't need to clip the windows I run every 3rd window clip and its fine.

 

[ahicks]

I had the same problem, and maybe then some. I figured having it down to the point of swapping the drivers was an exellent time to replace the track I didn't think much of either....

My son has an '06 Attak. Stock except for an Excel exhaust, C&A skis, and studs. Stock track.

The problem: Ratchets bad when he hits it hard. Track is as tight as it should be.

I'm no mechanic wiz but I was told to get Wahl brothers anti-slip drivers. I emailed Wahl tech support and they gave me the part #'s to order. They arrived but the drivers used the track window. Since it is a stock track, every 3rd window is closed.

My question is what do I do now. options:
A) Return the drivers
B) Keep them and work on the track by either:
1) Getting a new fully clipped track (the most expensive option)
2) I've seen references to "cutting" open the closed windows.
If I do that, what tool? Will it substantially weaken the track?
Do I need to clip the newly opened windows? What tool for that?

I'm not necessarily looking to go cheap...just want to solve the anti-ratchet problem.

THANKS GUYS!

 

[Grassfirebob]

Thanks a million guys!

This site is awesome - TY'rs rock.

 

[Ding]

Check your front arm to make sure it isn't cracked. It will ratchet worse if the arm flexes.

 

[**sj**]

cutting the windows open allows the track to bend much easier...also...you can use a hole saw for easier cutting

 

[Grassfirebob]

Thanks for the tips. Already bent the front arm last ride of the season :-(
The new one from Yamaha looks a little more beefy.

Debating...better off to cut open the old track, or get a new track that's already fully open/fully clipped (and possibly, pre-studded).

If I go with a new track...does anybody run anything different than stock? Recommendations? Anyone go with a pre-studded track? Better/worse than adding your own studs to a pre-drilled track?

The sled is 90% trail/hard pack ridden.

The goal: to beat his sister's boyfriends F1000 ;-) (it's always close...but this damn ratcheting is killing team yamaha! lol ;-)

Current track pics attached

 

[**sj**]

1.25 " fully clipped predator/carve and aggressive studding including outside belts...

 

[Attak44]

I have the same sled with the same problem. I solved it with the Wahl drivers and a fully clipped ripsaw pre-drilled for studs from Tracks USA. No more of that $%#@ ratcheting.

PS..It wasn't a big deal for me to pay the money for the new track as the original was still on the sled and had 12,000 miles on it. It was time for it to replaced anyway.

 

[Grassfirebob]

Attak44,

What made you go with a pre-drilled track vs a pre-studded track?

I figured if I went pre-studded it would save time on my part but on a pre-studded track the studs are in located in the lugs and stick out about 1/4" vs a pre-drilled track where you locate the studs in the "valley" of the track.

Even though the studs would be approx 1/4 higher than the lugs of the track (effectively the same height as pre-studded), I'm wondering if longer studs located in the valley would give better bite than just the 1/4" located in the pre-studded track. Plus, if you throw a stud on a pre-drilled you just replace the stud. Not sure on a pre-studded.

Which ripsaw did you go with? 1"?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[Grassfirebob]

I ordered a new ripsaw 1.25", all windows open, fully clipped track.

Two questions remain:
1. Stud recommendations? (mostly trail, some ice)
2. Tunnel protector? Recommendations?

 

[kinger]

I could't do that, buy the same track I had unless I just loved it. LOL

I would stud with 96 up the middle if you just want some safety. Otherwise 144 up the middle for perfomance.

No need fora tunnel protector.

 

[SledFreak]

I ordered a new ripsaw 1.25", all windows open, fully clipped track.

Two questions remain:
1. Stud recommendations? (mostly trail, some ice)
2. Tunnel protector? Recommendations?

You just killed it on top end with a 1.25 Predator.

I would have went with a Cobra. Much better track in the snow and good on hard pack and less impact to the top end.