Opinion on Ohlins rebound adjustmnt with 6.5 Spring:09LTX GT

[Fusion]

I'm adding the 6.5 Ohlins spring 696-16 on '09 Apex LTX GT, and Pioneer told me it will change the rear ride a bit if I leave the adjustment on the shock the way I have it now with the stock spring (6.1).
Should I go for quicker rebound on the shock to compensate, or the other way? I just want to be sure the rebound isn't to harsh over stutters.
Opinions? - Thanks

 

[darv]

Best thing is to also get the shock revalved also I did an I'm very happy I had mike at carver performance do it because they where close to me an he did a great job

 

[sleddog66]

x2 on a revalve with the spring. Pioneer did mine, and it is night and day better than OEM

 

[Soldier'spapa]

If the shock valving is going to remain the same... the addition of a higher rate spring will result in a faster rebound speed. If you had it dialed in to your liking prior to the new spring, I would expect you will need to tighten up (slow down) the rebound from the previous setting to return to your desired rebound speed.

I also recommend re-valving the shock when it's out for the new spring. It too will make a significant improvement, if it has not been done yet. I have only used Hygear and speak highly of them.

 

[cannondale27]

Whole point of going to a higher rate spring is to keep the same correct ride height with less preload.Adjust your preload for correct ride height THEN adjust your rebound if needed.

 

[Fusion]

Yeah, I have the preload cranked up a bit on the shock to increase ride height and make it as stiff as possible without creating a problem with forward bite.
I see what you mean, I guess I'll have to back off the preload to stock levels. Then worry about the shock adjustment. Thanks Cannondale, that's helpful.
I have 130 something studs down the middle, and I was worried about my rear heat exchanger, even with protectors installed. I wasn't taking any chances.
But I never liked how the sled sat for ride height, it always seemed like the rear was too soft. Funny thing is, it never seemed to bottom out.
Most of the time I ride with my stiffness cranked up to 3/4 on the electronic adjustment.

 

[darv]

You should have 40-45 mm of sag when you sit on the sled with gear. You measure the spring no weight then with weight. Then do the other adjustment

 

[Fusion]

Yeah it's been three years since I did the initial setup, and all my notes are with the sled up north.
What I wanted was the minimal amount of sag possible, and to do that, I took the adjustment as far as I could on the spring.
I forget what the exact numbers were, but I have them documented in my manual. I'll be checking it again when I get the spring installed.
But I may have the dealer crank the spring adjustment nut back to stock before I start, because he'll have it out anyways, and I won't need that stiffness anymore.
Thanks for the comments - very helpful.