MXD
Pro
I have an 06 Apex ER and I just ordered the fat kid spring. I'm about 250 ready to ride. Do I need to revalve for trail riding or is it only neccesary for real hard riding? Also, is the 6.5 what I want. I thought about the bigger one but that might be too much.
06RTXTASY
Pro
The re valve alone will help more than you would think. The valving is what controls the dampening of the shock compression. The spring supports the weight of you and the sled. You do need the spring at that weight but without the re valve you will still blow right through the travel.
Pioneer does the re valve and the spring for 150.00 to your door.
Pioneer does the re valve and the spring for 150.00 to your door.
If your not riding really hard you shouldn't have to. Just set your ride height. But "riding really hard" has a different meaning for everyone!
06RTXTASY
Pro
guardrail said:
Agreed 100% on the "riding really hard". I do think however that it is not hard at all to have the mono bottom with the stock valving and spring. It is by no means set up for a "fat #*$&@" like me or you. If the trail you ride get bumped up real bad and easily do the revalve. If you one of the lucky few that get to ride perfect trails that never have a bump then you dont need to revalve.
I did both and am completely satisfied with my decision. No more bottoming.
MXD
Pro
so do you think the 6.5 is a good chioce or do I need to go heavier?
06RTXTASY
Pro
6.5 and re valve should do you nicely.
SERPAGS
Expert
On a GT, would you also need to revalve? What would be the difference between puttinga 6.5 or 7.1 ?
06RTXTASY
Pro
I did alot of reading and brain picking on this and everything i have been told is the revalve is necessary for those hard rides. The 7.1 is an even stiffer spring. Its most likely too stiff for most. I go 240 ish with gear and the 6.5 is right for me and i beat my sled pretty good on bumps. It also beats back i found out at the end of the day.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I would think you would have to... WIth out revalving you would have terrible kick back because with that much spring the shock wont be able to keep up..
SERPAGS
Expert
06RTXTASY said:
Thats the thing , I have read mixed things about the revalve, I also don't hit the moguls. For me its the late day beaten trail bumps, that I just don't want to slow down for too much and some are so bad that I bottom out. Thats what I need a fix for. That and not getting thrown off my seat.
(sorry for the hyjack)
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
We found with the 06 Apex ER that you could install the 6.5 spring without a revalve as long as you were above about 200 lbs. Any less and you get a lot of kick back.
A friend of mine who weighs about 150 lbs almost couldn't ride my 05 RX-1 with the 6.5 spring and the stock shock. The back end was constantly kicking way up in the air and trying to buck him off. With my 220ish lbs on the sled I didn't have a problem.
We found the same thing with all of the guys with the 06 Apex ER.
Now, having said that, a good revalve that is set up for a 220+ lb rider combined with the 6.5 spring is a much better setup overall. Done right there is no more kick back at all, the handling is more controlled (sled doesn't bounce around as much), bottoming out is non-existent, and the ride quality on smaller stutter bumps is no worse than just the spring.
A friend of mine who weighs about 150 lbs almost couldn't ride my 05 RX-1 with the 6.5 spring and the stock shock. The back end was constantly kicking way up in the air and trying to buck him off. With my 220ish lbs on the sled I didn't have a problem.
We found the same thing with all of the guys with the 06 Apex ER.
Now, having said that, a good revalve that is set up for a 220+ lb rider combined with the 6.5 spring is a much better setup overall. Done right there is no more kick back at all, the handling is more controlled (sled doesn't bounce around as much), bottoming out is non-existent, and the ride quality on smaller stutter bumps is no worse than just the spring.
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