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Overheating?

I can't answer why!
But low oil and high temp shut downs ONLY work while engine is at an idle!

Raise the rpm and the shut down curcit is over ridden! No limp mode and no shut down mode, no rich mode to help cool the engine, no timing retard, NOTHING while riding. But they did leave the meltdown mode IF you ride it long enough with out watching your idiot lights!

Hey Yamaha for 09 PLEASE tie in idiot lights into reverse alarm/speaker SO some of us guys that are watching the trail while they ride can HEAR a problem early! Another brand has this feature! Lights don't work well unless they are in your field of vision OR bright enough to get ones attenetion.
 

psychosledder said:
08NitroRTX said:
psychosledder said:
It'll shut down when it gets too hot.



THIS IS ONLY TRUE WHEN SLEDS IS AT AN IDLE!!!

(Yes I was yelling!

LMFAO!!


My guess to the reason it doesn't shut down above idle is that you may not want to be bombing down a twisty trail at 60+MPH at night and have the lights go out. I went to turn up my thumb warmer on my Apex (is on the same side as the trottle) with my left hand; instead I hit the kill switch. Wow did it get dark fast. Lucky for me it was a straight section in the trail. I see your point but I think the sight thing outweights the other. However I do like the idiot light with a beep idea.
 
08NitroRTX said:
Hey Yamaha for 09 PLEASE tie in idiot lights into reverse alarm/speaker SO some of us guys that are watching the trail while they ride can HEAR a problem early! Another brand has this feature! Lights don't work well unless they are in your field of vision OR bright enough to get ones attenetion.

100% agreed! I tend to not pay attention to my guages and focus more on what's flying up in front of me. A buzzer like the air alarm on a truck would definitely grab my attention.
 
Maybe I am crazy here...but don't most of you guys know EXACTLY what RPM you are peaking at? This is only known by reading the 10 font numbers on the speedo....your telling me that you can't see a light?
 
I think lots of it too is from going to slow!! Pick it up going down the trails!! More snow dust and air moving in the rad.

Skydog
 
YAM182 said:
Yamaha snowmobiles now come with ethylene glycol silicate free coolant.
Extended life coolant.
Common specific gravity floating ball type testers might not indicate correct coolant ratio.
Refractor type testers are more accurate to measure the coolant to water ratio.
Supposed to come at 60/40 coolant to water ratio and is supposed to be good to -62 F.
50/50 supposed to be good to -34 F.

A bulb type tester will genreally not be accurate. You need a temperature compensated refractometer. It's 60 / 40 at the factory, some people test with a bulb style, an wrongly think it's pure glycol
 
Here is the deal:

While riding in curtain conditions...
The snow will melt while under the tunnel and build an ice damn or in wet heavy snow the snow will pack off blocking fresh snow from contacting the heat exchanger. (this is actually what caused us engine failure of one sled while in the IronDog)
An air gap between the ice or slush (dependent on temp) would not allow for sufficent cooling to take place, even @ -20F running 90+ mph...
While it could be other things ALSO this is what took our sled out!
 
Another possible source of over-heating, this happened to me riding in 20 degree temps fresh snow conditions. Temp light came on, stopped checked fan, which was on, then rolled sled over, snow slush was bridged between heat exchanger and track. Cleaned this out, cooled of right away, problem was it kept on doing this. Later after a long diner break, temps dropped and the sled never overheated again.
 
08NitroRTX, How did you solve this bridging problem, Would removing the stud protectors on the heat exchanger help!!
 
ktm010,

IMHO there is ONLY 4 solutions at this time (the same 4 as 1 year ago) Look for rough trail and 'jar' the ice dam out, stop and clear it manualy, or the best solution is add the MTX under tunnel exchanger and needed hoses. Or as you suggested removing the protectors may help BUT there was less than 1/4" of air gap between the ice dam and exchanger.

It appears some FX Nytros work harder than others. Some run hotter than others and not all need this BUT IF you find you are over heating after holding it wide open (for a decent lenght of time) in good snow conditions I would look into adding the MTX exchanger.
 
It did only happen in certain snow conditions, and if I recall only twice. It just seems odd no other snowmobile I've owned did this :dunno:
 
ktm010 said:
It did only happen in certain snow conditions, and if I recall only twice. It just seems odd no other snowmobile I've owned did this :dunno:

This must be your first 4 stroke Yamaha then...quite common ailment.

Many have had this problem for the last number of years.
 
You are correct this is my 1st, but it's not the first model out, don't get me wrong I do like the sled, they just should get all the flaws worked out before selling them for 10K (my bent sub-frame with no accidents, most people re-place the skis, left wet boot issues)
 


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