overheating

[Len Todd]

... my Apex GT's seem to exhibit the same "hot-light" phenomenon being discussed here. My question is: Would going to a 50/50 mix help?

Yes a 50/50 mix will help. Also, Watter-Wetter is a after-market product that helps internal heat transfer. But, in some low or hard packed snow conditions, both of these changes still may not prevent the sled form getting hotter than normal and illuminating the warning indicator. The only way to mechanically beat this seems to be the addition of the rear heat exchanger, and I suspect that it too has it limits. The only sure way to beat the lit lamp is find to loose snow. On a hard packed trail, you may be surprised how little snow actually hits the heat exchangers.

Other things to think about: When you get the indicator lit, it is a good reminder to head for loose snow because you are probably starting to over-heat other things too (e.g. hyfax and possibly even the track).

 

[bigdog1000]

Long tracks have more of a problem than short tracks. They don't suck up enough snow in marginal conditions. I was out on the lakes yesterday with a modded up F-1000 and he overheated several times due to stretches of just glare ice. Last year I would heat up at times and he wouldn't. I added the rear cooler and I never saw my light yesterday. By the way, before I added the cooler, my dealer said my Glycol was 50/50. He also said you can run for about 15 minutes with the light on before the engine will shut down to protect itself. The coolers were added in 09 because they are needed...Yamaha doesn't throw away money for nothing.

 

[mbro223]

Thanks for the response Dave! Yes, my 2 Apexs' are 07's also. My friend also bought 2 o7's and they "overheat" too. I will try your fix and if it works as well as the new handwarmers, I'll be a happy man! Mark

 

[mbro223]

... my Apex GT's seem to exhibit the same "hot-light" phenomenon being discussed here. My question is: Would going to a 50/50 mix help?

Yes a 50/50 mix will help. Also, Watter-Wetter is a after-market product that helps internal heat transfer. But, in some low or hard packed snow conditions, both of these changes still may not prevent the sled form getting hotter than normal and illuminating the warning indicator. The only way to mechanically beat this seems to be the addition of the rear heat exchanger, and I suspect that it too has it limits. The only sure way to beat the lit lamp is find to loose snow. On a hard packed trail, you may be surprised how little snow actually hits the heat exchangers.

Other things to think about: When you get the indicator lit, it is a good reminder to head for loose snow because you are probably starting to over-heat other things too (e.g. hyfax and possibly even the track).

Thanks Len! Yes, since my switch from, dare I say it, Arctic Cats, I've gotten used to hunting for deep snow! Not sure why Yammie puts heat-exchangers under the running boards where little if any track-wash will hit them?

 

[Len Todd]

Where the coolers on the Yamahas are located, we tend not to throw studs & rocks up through them, though.

I had studs punch the coolers on my cats a couple times. I guess everything has its trade-offs. Eh?

 

[apex yooper]

heat

Thanks Len,
You'd think the gauges would be tested for accuracy before shipping.

My coolant reads about 30 below, on a tester. I would think the mixture is OK at that reading.

 

[Len Todd]

I have seen 38 below here in lower Michigan. I spent a week in Canada once where the high for the trip was -35 C. So depending on where you go, -30 could be good.

 

[mbro223]

Where the coolers on the Yamahas are located, we tend not to throw studs & rocks up through them, though.

I had studs punch the coolers on my cats a couple times. I guess everything has its trade-offs. Eh?

Good point! BTW, what reading should I get with my coolant tester if its pure glycol in there?

 

[ben apexgt]

had same problem after the rear cooler installed never see the light after

 

[MikeAttakNYC]

a few weeks ago i was running wide open on a seasonal road with very little snow i had noticed my light came on so i turned around to make sure my buddy was still there and i noticed flames shooting out of my exhaust. i was so excited and scared #*$&@ less at the same time it was great but i pulled over in some poweder and it cooled off and the light went off. wild evening to say the least

 

[Len Todd]

... BTW, what reading should I get with my coolant tester if its pure glycol in there?

I would think you would see something along the lines of 45 below or greater. Hard to tell with the cheapie ball hydrometers. Probably all balls floatin'.

 

[mbro223]

... BTW, what reading should I get with my coolant tester if its pure glycol in there?

I would think you would see something along the lines of 45 below or greater. Hard to tell with the cheapie ball hydrometers. Probably all balls floatin'.

Thanks again Len. I checked it and it looks like I'm good to about -80. I'd say thats pure glycol. I'm going to dilute it to 50/50. I'll be headed to the UP next month and we'll see how it performs. I've never seen it get below -35 so I should be good.

 

[Blue Dave]

The best way to accurately measure glycol concentration is by using a refractometer. Not many people have one because they are expensive. However a good quality specific gravity type tester should be in the ballpark at room temp. I checked mine by mixing up a "test batch" of 50/50 and my tester was pretty darn close.

If you are more concentrated than 60/40 you are sacrificing the heat transfer ability of your coolant which consequently will cause your sled to overheat easier.

 

[LJ 452]

 

[Len Todd]

Like I have said before. I have seen -38 degrees F in lower MI, twice. (Once only a couple years ago. So much for global warming, eh?) So maybe 60/40 is a good compromise if you plan to ever leave it sitting out for a for days.

I know that mine is good for -45. That last trip to Canada it only got above -30 degrees F (plus or minus head conversion tolerances )once.