Trailbuster
Veteran
My 07 Apex er is having some performance issues. When i first got it i could beat most sleds around here. Mine is stock just like most of the other sleds around here. my cousin and friend both have 05 F7s and i could lay a lickin' on em both. Now they do nothing but embarass me. I've always started a new season with a new belt, even when i noticed issues i changed the belt agian with only 1000 miles on it and still same prob. I used to see 122mph on the dreameater now about 109. Had it at the dealer while still on warrenty and they didn't do anything for me. engine seems to run fine. rpm is around 11000. i have 5000miles, still have the 1.25 rip crap, it spins like a crazy carpet. i noticed most of my clips are gone I wondered if that could be a contributing factor? Any one else know of anything i can look for? or what my prob could be??
Here some ideas:
Clean clutches.
Check clutch bushing and free play.
Check all the bearing, i.e. idler, Jackshaft....
On the stand, check if your track is easy to turn by hand.
I suspect you have a friction problem and Yes clips are important. Right now it means that you are running your slides directly on hot rubber...That is not good. Make your next track full clip.
Hope this help
Good luck!
Clean clutches.
Check clutch bushing and free play.
Check all the bearing, i.e. idler, Jackshaft....
On the stand, check if your track is easy to turn by hand.
I suspect you have a friction problem and Yes clips are important. Right now it means that you are running your slides directly on hot rubber...That is not good. Make your next track full clip.
Hope this help
Good luck!
Trailbuster
Veteran
forgot to mention, i had cleaned the clutches. I just blew them out with air. Is that enough. How do you check the bushing freeplay? all my idler's were sized i changed the to 135mm replaceable bearings. I had my chain case apart to cahnge oil and inspect. i turned it over by hand on the secondary, it might have a hard spot in there somewhere. jackshaft bearing?
jp.rtx.yam.
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right on,friction is the key.if you loose your clips,better change track.Yummy said:
Grimm
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Trailbuster said:
Take your clutches off and clean/scrub with hot soapy water. I've even heard of some guys sticking them in the dishwasher. Also, wash the drive belt too, especially if they are new. Maybe your clutch settings are slipping, causing heat and lack of performance.
Since you had the chaincase apart, did you set the tensioner to spec? I think it's finger tight and then back off a quarter turn. Did you put it back together properly, including reverse linkage?
Inspect the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings by popping the seals on them and adding some grease, but don't put too much, else it'll make a mess while riding.
You mention that you changed to 135mm wheels, did you do this between the rails as well? If you did, did you machine the wheel mounts do that the idlers are centered between the drive lugs of the track? If you didn't, you can risk excessive wear on the idlers and track, which causes friction, thus heat, thus potential problems, ie track clips wearing out and breaking off.
Inspect your suspension for wear and possible rubbing or friction. I've also heard that loose rail tip caps can cause premature failure of the track clips. Check for that as well.
Good luck. Let us know how you fare.
kinger
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I gain almost 10 mph replacing bad bearings on the clutch side of the sled. The jackshaft and drive shaft. remove teh secondary to get to them, pop the seals off and see if they are dry. Clean with brake cleaner, blow it out with compressed air and use a needle grease gun to fill them again and replace the seal.
Before you do that spin the track by hand then do it after and see if its much easier, mine was.
Those clips are not helping you either, most dealer should have clips and a clip too to replace them.
Before you do that spin the track by hand then do it after and see if its much easier, mine was.
Those clips are not helping you either, most dealer should have clips and a clip too to replace them.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I agree, CLIPS & BEARING'S are the #1 for robbing speed! Carbides can also rob TOP END, track & chain tension, also make sure your track alignemet is spot on...make sure your not OVER SPRUNG meaning to big of a spring or setting, sled sits to high and the aproach angle is to steep and rail tips tend to STAB your track clips and rip them off! Check your "SAG" it should be within 40 - 45mm this will confirm if you have the right spring and setting.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
if you can't spin your track with one hand up on a stand you got problems and will lose big time performance, check everything over starting with the most simple stuff first
Trailbuster
Veteran
Grimm said:
I did not change the inside rails idlers. I did adjust the chain tension to spec. I did notice that my rail tip caps are a little loose.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
i would get some clips back on there and put the slp anti-wear pad's on, the more rubber your putting against your slider the less speed your going to have
Trailbuster
Veteran
Ive been thinking about just tossing that ripjunk track in the bush and buying a new one. Been looking at the intense or the cobra. Whats the difference between every window open and every third window closed? any bennifits to either?
