rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
When carving in powder, the G out will keep the oil down in the sump. Same as turning a motorcycle.
DoktorC
TY 4 Stroke Master
From what I was told this was only an issue for the first year sleds...and it was ONLY an upside down for an extended period of time issue not a carving issue.
Bakemono
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That sounds about right. Youve gotta wonder though, who leaves their sled running upside down for extended periods of time???DoktorC said:
Youd think that even if there were some kind of an accident and the rider were hurt, that whoever helped them would shut the sled off.
DoktorC
TY 4 Stroke Master
This is why primarily it was mountain sleds...I guess sometimes they are upside down along way from where they lost their rider lol.
So after righting them they make no abnormal knocking noise until the nuts fall off the rod caps?
Proper name for our bearings is Tri-Metal bearings.Babbit is a generic term.Ours are probably coated also.Adding another layer.
Here is some interesting reading.Would directly apply to our motors I believe.
http://www.clevite.com/motorhead/techst ... TB2008.pdf
That article is what I have seen of motors that had bearing failures in both Vehicles and Bikes.I never saw even pics of any sleds which had one go.
Anyone ever owned a Honda Nighthawk?I did.They were known for rod bearing failure.One hot summer day I started bike with choke on.Phone rang.Went to answer it.After hanging up Phone I forgot all about bike running outside ate lunch and sat around.Went outside 2hrs later when I opened door heard bike at a very fast idle.Could see heat waves rolling off that thing.Turned it off.Motor was hot enough to boil the hydraulic clutch fluid.Had to bleed that.Cant remember if oil light was on or not.Like a lazy idiot I didnt change the engine oil.Next day I raced a buddy with a RX7.Beat him of course but as I was passing him bike developed a very rapid knock.About the pace of a woodpecker at full speed.I was broke and stupider back then and when I replaced the suspected rod bearing did not replace the others.They are identified with both position,color and number I believe.It was over twenty different sized bearings in each position right from factory.Size is critical.When put back together it still had a knock although much less.I sold bike for $300 telling person I didnt want to deal with it.That was 1990.Bike has had another owner motor never touched and it is still being used to this day even with the knock.
Another one that may apply.Used to MudRace trucks.Toyotas most with 20r or 22r 4cylinders.Those motors easily made 8000rpm with minor mods and lasted well over 200,000 mi even hopped up.Well eventually they need a rebuild after they burn so much oil that a guy just uses waste oil in it!I did one.Had trouble getting right sized rod bearings two sets were too tight.Of course to check size you Plastigage them.This requires torquing them.Third set was correct.That means rod studs were torqued 4 times plus factory torquing.Well first race one let go sending rod through side and breaking motor mount off.Although a very quick failure if I would have lifted at first noise I believe rod would not have gone through block.Both studs were broken off and nuts WITH broken studs/bolts were found in oil pan.Rod end was pulled out through hole.Obviously I learned to replace the rod bolts.Point is nuts never fell off.
Proper name for our bearings is Tri-Metal bearings.Babbit is a generic term.Ours are probably coated also.Adding another layer.
Here is some interesting reading.Would directly apply to our motors I believe.
http://www.clevite.com/motorhead/techst ... TB2008.pdf
That article is what I have seen of motors that had bearing failures in both Vehicles and Bikes.I never saw even pics of any sleds which had one go.
Anyone ever owned a Honda Nighthawk?I did.They were known for rod bearing failure.One hot summer day I started bike with choke on.Phone rang.Went to answer it.After hanging up Phone I forgot all about bike running outside ate lunch and sat around.Went outside 2hrs later when I opened door heard bike at a very fast idle.Could see heat waves rolling off that thing.Turned it off.Motor was hot enough to boil the hydraulic clutch fluid.Had to bleed that.Cant remember if oil light was on or not.Like a lazy idiot I didnt change the engine oil.Next day I raced a buddy with a RX7.Beat him of course but as I was passing him bike developed a very rapid knock.About the pace of a woodpecker at full speed.I was broke and stupider back then and when I replaced the suspected rod bearing did not replace the others.They are identified with both position,color and number I believe.It was over twenty different sized bearings in each position right from factory.Size is critical.When put back together it still had a knock although much less.I sold bike for $300 telling person I didnt want to deal with it.That was 1990.Bike has had another owner motor never touched and it is still being used to this day even with the knock.
Another one that may apply.Used to MudRace trucks.Toyotas most with 20r or 22r 4cylinders.Those motors easily made 8000rpm with minor mods and lasted well over 200,000 mi even hopped up.Well eventually they need a rebuild after they burn so much oil that a guy just uses waste oil in it!I did one.Had trouble getting right sized rod bearings two sets were too tight.Of course to check size you Plastigage them.This requires torquing them.Third set was correct.That means rod studs were torqued 4 times plus factory torquing.Well first race one let go sending rod through side and breaking motor mount off.Although a very quick failure if I would have lifted at first noise I believe rod would not have gone through block.Both studs were broken off and nuts WITH broken studs/bolts were found in oil pan.Rod end was pulled out through hole.Obviously I learned to replace the rod bolts.Point is nuts never fell off.
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