Phazer Refresh

I put electrical tape on top of subframe where the steel heatshield rests way back in 07 that stuff is tough. Hasnt rubbed through at all. Scotch brand.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00493.JPG
    DSC00493.JPG
    102.3 KB · Views: 188
  • DSC00494.JPG
    DSC00494.JPG
    117.8 KB · Views: 206
Got that done,seat and tank mounted. Moved on to dropping the rear suspension. Glad I did. I dont believe it has been dropped in 4 seasons.Oops! Both sides of front arm cracked. Right where weld ends. I wonder whether something can be done to prevent this? Must have happened on last ride since I would have seen it? Never noticed anything odd.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00495.JPG
    DSC00495.JPG
    104.6 KB · Views: 195
  • DSC00501.JPG
    DSC00501.JPG
    95.3 KB · Views: 198
The shaft for the arm is also badly worn. Both ends. Plenty of grease just wore. May put a steel sleeve over it each end since shaft is Aluminum. Depends how much a new one would be.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00496.JPG
    DSC00496.JPG
    88.4 KB · Views: 180
The Link and pivot along with the shaft they are on are doing fine. Clean and regrease is all. A little water must have got in as you can see some discoloration but nothing you can feel so will just polish the bushing.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00498.JPG
    DSC00498.JPG
    115.2 KB · Views: 186
  • DSC00505.JPG
    DSC00505.JPG
    74.1 KB · Views: 183
All the shafts and pieces of rear scissors are like new. Still cant believe no bushings are used in there though. Keep them greased well. Notice all the Loctite on bolts. Notice how it is like powder when bolt is removed? That means it was working and applied correctly. No loose bolts anywhere.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00503.JPG
    DSC00503.JPG
    118.9 KB · Views: 186
  • DSC00504.JPG
    DSC00504.JPG
    88.6 KB · Views: 188
Back when I was breaking the suspension every weekend this bolt pulled right through one rail and partially through the other from the Pivot shaft bending. I replaced the worst one and just ran the other with both reinforced. Lasted many years but the one I didnt replace is now opening up so the other new rail will go on with reinforcement. Other rail is perfect.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00497.JPG
    DSC00497.JPG
    99.9 KB · Views: 188
Glad we have some alternative upper replacement wheels to try. This one is cracked and both bearings sloppy. My little wheels bearings are shot and my big rear out wheels are a little wobbly so replacing all those. All others are still like new. Even the original two rear inner ones. Surprised me and another reason four a 4 wheel setup in back.

Will have to get at drive bearings during the week. Ran out of time. She should be like new when done. Lot of work though and not looking forward to front arm and shaft cost but it earned it.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00499.JPG
    DSC00499.JPG
    158.9 KB · Views: 198
  • DSC00502.JPG
    DSC00502.JPG
    83.1 KB · Views: 205
Are you going to just weld the front arm or replace it? You mentioned that the pivot shaft is aluminum. I just put mine back together and its steel. If the shoulder on the bushing breaks off the bushing can migrate towards the middle then cause the shaft to wear. Was your charge port on the front shock the right way?
 
The aluminum shafts are in the scissor and the upper front arm(where it bolts to tunnel). All the Pivot shafts are steel. I call the pivot the small shaft with two wheels that the link and lower center shock mount is on. And yes shock is mounted with fill down on mine. I will rotate it every few years to keep wear even on it. I will buy a new front arm and reinforce it. Bushings for front arm were in place. The wear is from the bushing.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00506.JPG
    DSC00506.JPG
    90.1 KB · Views: 193
PIvot arm goes for $158 and the shaft will run you $21. Price was from Partzilla.
 
What did you end up using for the heat shield material? Or is it still stock stuff?
 
Still stock. I sandwiched it in hope it stays together. I may try the spray that you use on exhaust wrap on it to help keep it together. Will check how its doing with the sandwich in a couple hundred mi.
 
Ruggy that price isnt bad. I will for sure just buy new and compare/reinforce. You asked whether the lower chaincase bearing was put in stock with seal out. Yes it is. 3 seasons on it. Seems to be good as new. Everything in chaincase is perfect including chain and gears. No issues there.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00510.JPG
    DSC00510.JPG
    166 KB · Views: 177
  • DSC00509.JPG
    DSC00509.JPG
    91.9 KB · Views: 186
  • DSC00508.JPG
    DSC00508.JPG
    95.7 KB · Views: 180
Good to hear. Strange how yours is perfect and mine was completely shot after around 6,000 miles. I did install mine with the seal in so we'll see how ot does.
 
All it takes is for speedoside bearing to go from neglect and it can ruin everything. I take care of my bearings especially that one.
 


Back
Top