sethryder
Extreme
Im going to stretch my 07 phazer fx to a 136. Planning on ordering trackusa extensions.
The sled has 3400 miles.
I am going to weld/reinforce suspension, stretch tunnel, check idler wheel bearings, add a 4th rear wheel, add tether.
While I have it apart:
1) Should I inspect and grease the jack/driveshaft bearings or just automatically replace them?
2) I would like to order hyfax and extra wheels and bearings and return if not used, recommended online parts supplier? (yamaha dealer expensive)
3) Are the bearing kits online that include drive and jack shaft bearings any good or should I get from yamaha dealer?
4) Anything else you recommend doing while i have it apart?
Thanks!
The sled has 3400 miles.
I am going to weld/reinforce suspension, stretch tunnel, check idler wheel bearings, add a 4th rear wheel, add tether.
While I have it apart:
1) Should I inspect and grease the jack/driveshaft bearings or just automatically replace them?
2) I would like to order hyfax and extra wheels and bearings and return if not used, recommended online parts supplier? (yamaha dealer expensive)
3) Are the bearing kits online that include drive and jack shaft bearings any good or should I get from yamaha dealer?
4) Anything else you recommend doing while i have it apart?
Thanks!
Snowmixer
Pro
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2010
- Messages
- 188
- Location
- Snohomish, Washington
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Phazer Mountain Lite
2008 Phazer MTX
2012 Arctic Cat M800 153
Sounds like you've got a good plan so far!
1) Hard to say what condition your current bearings are in, but if they're original and now have 3400 miles, I'd probably just replace them. It would be cheap insurance, and a real pain to have to tear things apart again if they failed in the middle of your season! Additionally, both driveshaft bearings and the left (clutch) side jackshaft bearing are all sealed, which would limit the ability to grease them.
2) I'm not sure I understand the purpose of ordering extra wheels and bearings just to return them if not used. Are you just wanting to have them on hand in case the wheels/bearings you take off are worn, and if they're okay you'll return the unused items? Anyway, I've seen hyfax advertised on the Tracksusa site when I've browsed around a bit, so you could possibly order your extensions, hyfax, and bearing kit (jackshaft and/or driveshaft) from one source. You may also want to check out Dennis Kirk, as they have hyfax for just about any sled, and they're pretty reasonably priced.
3) I purchased one of the Jackshaft bearing kits from All Balls Racing a while back, and although it was supposed to fit my sled (2007 Mountain Lite), one of the bearings was the wrong type. The jackshaft bearing kit comes with the left bearing, right bearing (the one that's pressed into the right sideplate), the bearing that's pressed into the chaincase cover, and a new seal for the cover. Basically, the left (clutch) side jackshaft bearing has a spherical outside diameter which helps locate it in the mount/holder plates. The right side bearing that's pressed into the sideplate should have a flat/cylindrical outside diameter, but the one that came with the kit had a spherical outside diameter just like the left bearing. The only thing that I could think of was that maybe the base model Phazer (without reverse) has a similar plate/holder on the right side as what's on the left, making the spherical bearing necessary.
The bearings seemed to be decent quality, made by KML in Hong Kong or China. I ended up not using the second spherical bearing (for the right side) that came with the kit and bought an SKF bearing of the proper size instead. It would be rather difficult to remove that right bearing that's pressed into the right sideplate without removing the reverse gearbox, so I'm guessing you may just want to skip that one, in which case the kit would work just fine. And of course it's possible I just got a 'bad' kit too. Knowing now what bearings they are, I would just source them individually from a quality manufacturer.
The original bearings I removed from the chaincase cover and right sideplate were made by KOYO and NTN, and the driveshaft bearings were made by NSK, all three are reputable Japanese bearing manufacturers. I ordered a new driveshaft bearing from Yamaha, and it is made by NSK, so I figure that if Yamaha sources their bearings from those manufactures, they must be of decent enough quality. If you're on a budget, I'm sure the All Balls kit would work just fine, and even Hong Kong or Chinese made bearings are of decent quality these days. After comparing the prices of the factory Yamaha bearings and those from All Balls, there isn't a HUGE price difference, so I guess it comes down to whether you want to pay a little more for the Yamaha/Japanese made bearings.
If you want to source them individually, outside of ordering them from a Yamaha dealer, here are the part numbers you'll want to search for:
Chaincase Cover Bearing - 6005 (Yamaha used an 'open' style with no shield along with a separate seal, but a shielded style may work)
Right Sideplate/Inner Jackshaft Bearing - 6205 (MUST be an 'open' style with no shield to allow chaincase oil to flow through, if sled has reverse)
Left/Clutch side Jackshaft Bearing - SB205 (Make sure it has a spherical outside diameter and 25mm inside diameter, as different diameters are available)
Left side Driveshaft bearing - UB205 (Looks like the SB205 but has a flat/cylindrical outside diameter, also needs to be 25mm inside diameter)
Right side Driveshaft Bearing - 6205RU (Shielded on one side, towards the gears/oil in the chaincase)
4) Hmmm.....you may want to consider replacing the 'oil cup' and grommet that feeds oil to the reverse gearbox, as these parts were updated from 2008 and newer models to prevent the oil from leaking out (the grommet and oil cup tube on the 2007 models was too short and didn't always allow oil to make it to the reverse gearbox). I could go into more detail, but this thread explains it pretty well: '07 FX Chain Case Leak
Good Luck!
1) Hard to say what condition your current bearings are in, but if they're original and now have 3400 miles, I'd probably just replace them. It would be cheap insurance, and a real pain to have to tear things apart again if they failed in the middle of your season! Additionally, both driveshaft bearings and the left (clutch) side jackshaft bearing are all sealed, which would limit the ability to grease them.
2) I'm not sure I understand the purpose of ordering extra wheels and bearings just to return them if not used. Are you just wanting to have them on hand in case the wheels/bearings you take off are worn, and if they're okay you'll return the unused items? Anyway, I've seen hyfax advertised on the Tracksusa site when I've browsed around a bit, so you could possibly order your extensions, hyfax, and bearing kit (jackshaft and/or driveshaft) from one source. You may also want to check out Dennis Kirk, as they have hyfax for just about any sled, and they're pretty reasonably priced.
3) I purchased one of the Jackshaft bearing kits from All Balls Racing a while back, and although it was supposed to fit my sled (2007 Mountain Lite), one of the bearings was the wrong type. The jackshaft bearing kit comes with the left bearing, right bearing (the one that's pressed into the right sideplate), the bearing that's pressed into the chaincase cover, and a new seal for the cover. Basically, the left (clutch) side jackshaft bearing has a spherical outside diameter which helps locate it in the mount/holder plates. The right side bearing that's pressed into the sideplate should have a flat/cylindrical outside diameter, but the one that came with the kit had a spherical outside diameter just like the left bearing. The only thing that I could think of was that maybe the base model Phazer (without reverse) has a similar plate/holder on the right side as what's on the left, making the spherical bearing necessary.
The bearings seemed to be decent quality, made by KML in Hong Kong or China. I ended up not using the second spherical bearing (for the right side) that came with the kit and bought an SKF bearing of the proper size instead. It would be rather difficult to remove that right bearing that's pressed into the right sideplate without removing the reverse gearbox, so I'm guessing you may just want to skip that one, in which case the kit would work just fine. And of course it's possible I just got a 'bad' kit too. Knowing now what bearings they are, I would just source them individually from a quality manufacturer.
The original bearings I removed from the chaincase cover and right sideplate were made by KOYO and NTN, and the driveshaft bearings were made by NSK, all three are reputable Japanese bearing manufacturers. I ordered a new driveshaft bearing from Yamaha, and it is made by NSK, so I figure that if Yamaha sources their bearings from those manufactures, they must be of decent enough quality. If you're on a budget, I'm sure the All Balls kit would work just fine, and even Hong Kong or Chinese made bearings are of decent quality these days. After comparing the prices of the factory Yamaha bearings and those from All Balls, there isn't a HUGE price difference, so I guess it comes down to whether you want to pay a little more for the Yamaha/Japanese made bearings.
If you want to source them individually, outside of ordering them from a Yamaha dealer, here are the part numbers you'll want to search for:
Chaincase Cover Bearing - 6005 (Yamaha used an 'open' style with no shield along with a separate seal, but a shielded style may work)
Right Sideplate/Inner Jackshaft Bearing - 6205 (MUST be an 'open' style with no shield to allow chaincase oil to flow through, if sled has reverse)
Left/Clutch side Jackshaft Bearing - SB205 (Make sure it has a spherical outside diameter and 25mm inside diameter, as different diameters are available)
Left side Driveshaft bearing - UB205 (Looks like the SB205 but has a flat/cylindrical outside diameter, also needs to be 25mm inside diameter)
Right side Driveshaft Bearing - 6205RU (Shielded on one side, towards the gears/oil in the chaincase)
4) Hmmm.....you may want to consider replacing the 'oil cup' and grommet that feeds oil to the reverse gearbox, as these parts were updated from 2008 and newer models to prevent the oil from leaking out (the grommet and oil cup tube on the 2007 models was too short and didn't always allow oil to make it to the reverse gearbox). I could go into more detail, but this thread explains it pretty well: '07 FX Chain Case Leak
Good Luck!
Last edited:
sethryder
Extreme
Snowmixer, thank you for taking the time to write such an informative and detailed reply, I really really appreciate it! You saved me a ton of time just on trying to find bearing part numbers alone, and I will definitely look into the "oil cup" update. I was aware that the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings were sealed, but I came across a post that talked about popping the seal off, cleaning with wd-40, regreasing, and returning the seal. I was thinking maybe i could do the same? And yes, I just want the wheels and bearings around incase i need them. I don't have a garage, so I'm bringing it to my friends house for the day and want to get everything done in one day (hopefully). Thanks again for your help, now on to ordering parts!
Snowmixer
Pro
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2010
- Messages
- 188
- Location
- Snohomish, Washington
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Phazer Mountain Lite
2008 Phazer MTX
2012 Arctic Cat M800 153
Now that you mention it, I think I read that same post regarding removing the seal and greasing the bearing. It didn't occur to me at the time that the bearing didn't have a grease fitting of some kind. I remember trying to remove a seal on a bearing a long time ago and ended up destroying it (the seal) as the seal was somehow built into the bearing, so I have always dismissed that as an option. Anyway, I have the old jackshaft bearing sitting here in front of me, so I tried to remove the seal with a small jeweler's screwdriver, and was able to pop it right out. Better still, I was able to re-install the seal again, and I'm confident it would continue to function as intended.
It makes more sense to me now what you wanted the extra wheels and bearings for, that's a good idea. I'm not sure how long the bearings in the idler wheels typically last, but I never gave it much thought until I had the track off and tried to spin them. The two rear wheels still spun very smoothly and had slightly newer bearings (probably about 500 miles on them) and the rest have about 750 miles on them. The two large upper rear idlers feel very loose, probably a combination of worn bearings and worn wheels. All of the other small idlers rotate slightly (if I try to spin it by hand the wheel will rotate about 1/2 a turn, then stop) except for one of them, which will not rotate at all, no matter how much I try. Oddly enough, there is no flat spot on it, so maybe it just seized up recently.
The driveshaft and jackshaft bearings on the other hand still feel nice and tight, about like the new ones. I guess my point is that it's obviously a good idea to check out the wheel bearings periodically, so the 'extra' wheels and/or bearings you acquire may come in useful down the road if you keep them around.
It makes more sense to me now what you wanted the extra wheels and bearings for, that's a good idea. I'm not sure how long the bearings in the idler wheels typically last, but I never gave it much thought until I had the track off and tried to spin them. The two rear wheels still spun very smoothly and had slightly newer bearings (probably about 500 miles on them) and the rest have about 750 miles on them. The two large upper rear idlers feel very loose, probably a combination of worn bearings and worn wheels. All of the other small idlers rotate slightly (if I try to spin it by hand the wheel will rotate about 1/2 a turn, then stop) except for one of them, which will not rotate at all, no matter how much I try. Oddly enough, there is no flat spot on it, so maybe it just seized up recently.
The driveshaft and jackshaft bearings on the other hand still feel nice and tight, about like the new ones. I guess my point is that it's obviously a good idea to check out the wheel bearings periodically, so the 'extra' wheels and/or bearings you acquire may come in useful down the road if you keep them around.
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