Polishing the aluminum.

[local 25]

Re: aluminum polish

xcsp,i use this stuff thats made to shine aluminum tool boxes on that go on pick-up trucks.This stuff is the best polish that i ever used.(ive used them all) It turns the rag black without even rubbing hard.it is expesive though 15 dollars for a small bottle but well worth it.just rub it on and wipe it off.ill show you some pics

WHERE CAN I GET SOME

xcsp,i use this stuff thats made to shine aluminum tool boxes on that go on pick-up trucks.This stuff is the best polish that i ever used.(ive used them all) It turns the rag black without even rubbing hard.it is expesive though 15 dollars for a small bottle but well worth it.just rub it on and wipe it off.ill show you some pics

WHERE CAN I GET SOME

APEX 21 i bought it at a no name tractor trailer parts store that i was making a delivery to.I seen it on the counter and asked about it.All the polishes that everyone is talking about in this thread are all exellent metal polish,i happened to try this one because they told me you dont have to bust your onions rubbing with a lot of elbow grease. the black oxidation come right off very easily.the only thing i did not like was that you have to continually shake the bottle as the 2 chemicals inside seperate very quickly (like oil and water) There is a web adress on the bottle it is www.dawsbetterbuilt.com. Try that if you have no luck then i would be happy to be the middle man and get you some. Mark

 

[#3crew]

I agree, you should use the new "micro fiber' type towels or at least a brand new never used never washed100% cotton terry cloth towel to obtain the best finish. fold the towels in 1/4's to get the most cushion. and keep turning to a clean side as the towel gets dirty. this really makes a difference. With each progressive step ... start with a new clean towel. Every product mentioned probably has the potential for a great mirror finish.. it is all in the application.... time and elbow grease are the key. Get that black stuff off in the first one or two applications... and then do it two or three more times.... like a mirror.

 

[DaveyBoy]

Thanks Bigs


Do u guys with the BOSS seats keep all the heat shileds under your seat i am haveing my exhaust Jet coated and it should cut the heat down aabout 300 degrees will i burn it up anyone try it

 

[BlgsRX-1mtn]

DaveyBoy,

Yes the heat shield is left in place. BOSS supplies a felt type insulation that is placed between the tunnel and seat bottom for extra protection. This requies that you rivet it to the rear heat shield. The BOSS seat then sits on the tunnel and the rear heat shield. That is the black part you see in my picture of the polished right running board vs the MPI extension prior to being polished. I think the only BOSS seat owners not using the heat shield are those that have custom exhaust dumping underneath the tunnel and are using a seat similar to the two stroke type seats.

 

[DaveyBoy]

Thanks bigs my exhaust is out getting jet or ceramic coated if u will and was wondering if i could lighten it up my removeing some But it would be close i think I also was thibking of going with the exhaust that had the muffler in the tunnell ubder seat and then exit out like the excelll in the center? Thanks again bigs great pics

 

[TWIN TURBO]

Try Semi-chrome polish. Its a pink creamy paste in a yellow tube/box.
Its by far the best I've ever used. I've polished lots of tunnels before they started painting them. To speed thigs up get a 3 or 4 inch cotton buffing wheel at the hardware store to put in your electric drill. It will look like chrome but it also requires some touch-up from time to time. you should be able to get it at most dealers, at least most of the ones in Chicago have it.

 

[2BLUE4U]

Wnet over everything with #000 steel wool. cleaned with windex. applied first coat of polish, cleaned with windex, second coat, cleaned again, third coat. Used Mother's Mag & Aluminum. 8 hours in my garage yesterday. Didn't turn out too bad.

 

[garserio]

OK, I have to speak up about all this polishing business...

First, let me establish credibility: I develop advanced polishing processes for the optics industry, so I have experience to say the least.

Expecting a mirror quality shine from rubbing or spraying-on some kind of "magic cream" is unrealistic.

Polishing is an iterative process where each successive iteration reduces the surface roughness of the previous step. To minimize your effort, or number of iterations, you must choose the right recipe of polishing steps.

Lapping & polishing is material removal process. Whatever you rub on the surface is an attempt to remove the peaks of the surface roughness. Lapping is purely mechanical: That is, the abrasives grind material off as they tumble by the substrate. Polishes are both mechanical and chemical: That is, the abrasives still grind material off, but there is also a chemical component to the action where an "etching" occurs as well. That is why you need to select a polish made for aluminum that has been formulated to effectively etch the material.

You are starting out with a dull surface. It has a high surface roughness combined with oxidation.

Start with 1500grit wet sandpaper (someone else mentioned very fine steel wool which might be better for a complex shape like a tunnel) Rub out the surface using water as a lubricant. When the sandpaper starts to "float" on the surface, you have reached the limit of this step. This step is more of a lapping step, not a polishing step.

Next go to a commercially available rubbing compound. Rubbing compound is basically a polish with very small abrasives in suspension.

Finally, go with any of the aluminum polishes mentioned in this thread. The reason you are hearing so many different opinions on aluminum polish is because everyone tried a product with a different set of initial conditions. Some aluminum is more oxidized than others, etc... the key is use a final polish made for aluminum.

If you really want to get fancy, do this: Get some 12 micron aluminum oxide powder and make a slurry by combining it with water. Rub the slurry on the aluminum to be polished. After thoroughly cleaning, go with an off the shelf aluminum polish. You will have a mirror finish, no doubt.

Have fun!

 

[sledheadgeorge]

If you really want to get fancy, do this: Get some 12 micron aluminum oxide powder and make a slurry by combining it with water. Rub the slurry on the aluminum to be polished. After thoroughly cleaning, go with an off the shelf aluminum polish. You will have a mirror finish, no doubt.
Have fun!

I want to get fancy..............were is a good place to get this stuff? :shock:

 

[garserio]

You can get aluminum oxide grinding powders from optical finishing supply houses like Universal Photonics in Hicksville, NY. The product I mentioned is 12T which means 12 micron particle Treated to stay suspended in water. They also make a 9T product which is 9 micron.

Let me just warn you on a few things...

1. This stuff is expensive and usually sold in 5gal pails. They might offer smaller quantities but that is how my company buys it. Maybe you and your buddies can go in together on a larger quantity like this to offset the cost.

2. Aluminum oxide powder is a hard susbtance and in a 9-12 micron particle size, it is considered a grinding agent, not a polish. (Sub-micron powder sizes, like 0.1 micron would yield a highly polished surface) I mention this because if you rub this stuff on plated steel, like the heads of many POP RIVETS, it will most likely remove the plating. Then, your beautifully polished tunnel would be spoiled by rusty rivet heads. You can always replace the rivets or try to protect them during this lapping step.

Anyhow, I just tried this on my sled in a small inconspicuous spot and it worked great. The 12T will wash off with soapy water and a soft brush. Then you can do a final polish. I really like Busch's Aluminum Polish out of North Carolina. Also, to prolong the beauty of your polish against inevitable oxidation, I REALLY, REALLY like a Colinite Waxes out of Utica, NY. They make a fine line of polishes and waxes, but their packaging is very BLAH, so people overlook them. They mostly sell to professional detailers rather than through retail consumer stores.

Anyhow, good luck.

 

[Pureadrenaline]

Thanks for the info garserio!

 

[welterracer]

all im going to tell you is this...

After polishing it never looks the same and corrodes 10 Times as fast...

I polished the tunnel on my warrior last year and if you dont keep it perfectly clean it looks like crap a day later.. and will never look the same as when you first bought it..

Just a FYI

 

[sledheadgeorge]

all im going to tell you is this...

After polishing it never looks the same and corrodes 10 Times as fast...

I polished the tunnel on my warrior last year and if you dont keep it perfectly clean it looks like crap a day later.. and will never look the same as when you first bought it..

Just a FYI

Just have to find good snow to ride in. LOL

 

[grapeape]

I just finished up my tunnel tonight, and with 8 coats of Mothers, and 2 of Semi-Chrome, I have my desired finish... I did notice last season that the Semi-Chrome leaves a coating on the aluminum that seems to keep the tunnel clean during the riding...

 

[Pureadrenaline]

can you show us any pics?

Thanks,
-Pure-