UP bushman
VIP Member
blueironranger said:
I just put the 9 tooth anti ratchet drivers for approach angle & ratcheting first and foremost. I think it all helps but short of a dyno will never know. Traction is key and I know with the Timbersled skid I can climb a hill and the skis walk out of the snow that is like added HP. No treching and forward movement goes a long way on these things. I also am running a 1.75" X 144" Camoplast Back Coutnry so that was the reason for gearing back down. The 17/41 gearing with 9 tooth anti ratchet is equivalent to 19/41 gearing with 8 tooth drivers. Both setups rendered 75 mph on top end so I opted for lower gearing which is huge under load climbing in the powder and quicker shift out.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
What sled is that secondary from - it is different from others I've seen on here?Tbyrd said:
What are the advantages of the roller over just having the reverse secondary? Did you test the reverse secondary with and wo the roller?
thanks,
The secondary is a hyperlite roller secondary, this was an aftermarket clutch that is not made any more. I picked it up off ebay for pretty cheap, the down side is u cant get parts for them any more. The roller is sapposed to make the whole shifting proccess smoother and give u less belt slip witch in tern gives you more power to the track and snappier throttle response.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks, sounds good. I'll have to put a secondary roller on my list for next season.
Does your reverse work well with the new secondary? My reverse engagement seems to have improved with the new (old) secondary.
Does your reverse work well with the new secondary? My reverse engagement seems to have improved with the new (old) secondary.
UP bushman
VIP Member
BombaPolaYama said:
Hey BombaPolaYama I ran my YVX without the roller at the end of last year with a 51/43 helix. It shifted out very quick but I did not have time to fine tune the clutching for rpm before the snow melted. I decided on the roller for upshift and back shift performance with creating less drag (any little gain with 80 HP is big). The higher HP 4 stroke sleds don't really benefit from the roller like the 2 strokes do. I talked to MPI out in the Western US and they don't use the roller much any more with the 4 strokes because the torque curve. He also told me a roller secondary is equvilent to going up 2 helix angles in performance. So if you have a 43 degree helix it shifts out like a 47 degree helix.
But I will say my sled is a rocket in the shifting department now with the roller secondary. If I did not have a Timbersled skid to plant the skis and transfer I would be the wheely master. Last year I ran the Schmidt 42 degree helix in my stock secondary with the red spring on B:1. The stock MTX gearing 17/41 and 8 tooth drivers with stock primary clutch arms
tuned for peak straight shift 11,300 rpm. All I can say is not even close with this years setup and the YVX secondary with roller setup. As stated above in my setup testing I am looking for a deep powder under heavy load.
When I climb a hill the sled wants to lift out of the snow and really move. I will be riding with a couple guys with the same MTX sleds that are stock this year and they will be shocked at the performance. I did add a Aaen pipe and clean air what will it be like when I get my 2lb boost setup done. I probably spent at least 25 hours on the clutching but it was worth it. Testing is the only way to confirm the best setup for your type of riding. I discovered that just a secondary spring twist from 50 to 40 degree got 5 mph more on top end go figure.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
So less tension on the spring gave more mph. Thanks for the info, the smooth shifting certainly sounds worthwhile. I have to put on my new 1.5" track before I change many more variables though.UP bushman said:
UP bushman
VIP Member
I have tested and confirmed setup 4 and 5 to be the best. Setup 4 is for powder riding and setup 5 is for late season sticky hard riding.
ok, for those interested i tried running a 40/35 helix in my roller secondary and was very happy with the results, But it only works on flat and light grade hills with deep powder. When i get the machine into a steep climb in deep snow im still losing 800 to 1000 rpm. I am about 200 lbs. and am running 17 tooth top gear with a 151 challlenger extreem track. Ive ordered a 35/30 helix and it should be here by next weekend so i will let you know if its possible to clutch this thing to maintain rpm in deep n steep...
UP bushman
VIP Member
What spring are you running in the primary. I don't have any issues with the stock spring Green-Yellow-Green and rpm with the sled climbing at WOT speed. But when I had to let off and go it dropped about the 800-1000 rpm as you describe. So I put in a Pink-Yellow-Pink spring with a little more rate and that took care of it. When I was testing I used a steep short hill and started close to load it quick with little momentum. That helped dial in the spring rate and keep the rpm. Went out yesterday and climbed some steeper stuff and rpm was perfect 11,100-11,400 on and off throttle. Poor sled I am also 300lbs. with gear.
blueironranger
TY 4 Stroke God
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Great info so far guys, I've been watching Ebay for a Pogo Chassis Clutch and will pick one up as soon as there is a "reasonable" one on there. Great to here you have gotten most of the 800-1000rpm drop out of it. I've got mine clutched for 11,200 on the trail and it SUCKS to hit the powder, let off the throttle to carve a turn, and nail the throttle again only to see ~10,400rpm WOT. Also the ability to change springs/preload in under 5 minutes is another plus. I miss that from my SX-R, when I needed to tow a dead sled back I always wound the secondary 30* tighter for plenty of belt grab.
im running the stock primary spring with the heel clicker weights. Dont get me wrong this thing is real close. When i say steep and deep im talking 1000 to 1500 foot shoot climb in knee to waist high snow. The sled will hold rpm as long as I can maintain decent momentum, it will maintain 11400 to 11600 rpm untill it starts to slow down and the track begins to come under heavy heavy load. This is what im trying to cure. Other than that it will always hold perfect rpm. I may be going to extreem with my next attempt with helix angle but to me it seems to not want to backshift properly, and if it causes it to over rpm I can always add weight to primary weights. I did also try a stiffer primary spring that came with the heelclicker kit, (had to use a tall cover) and all it seemed to do was raise engagement, slow down shift out and do nothing for backshift. Will keep you up to date on any new developements.
UP bushman
VIP Member
I have the Supreme Tool arms and it allows me to load the heel to change my engagement rpms. Mine engages around 5,000 rpm but it is smooth not jerky.
yeh it sounds like our clutch kits are identical with a different name. 
UP bushman
VIP Member
tbyrd what were your results from last year for an update.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
I've been looking at the rollers that are available and have only been able to find two. This one from Mountain Performance that doesn't seem to work with the OEM helix, but it doesn't require machining which is good.
http://www.mountainperformance.com/yama ... _train.htm
And this one from Hauck which works with the OEM helix but requires machining.
http://www.hauckpowersportsinc.com/page ... oduct/1895
Are there other suppliers for the rollers that you know? And any thoughts on the above two with regards quality, etc.
thanks,
http://www.mountainperformance.com/yama ... _train.htm
And this one from Hauck which works with the OEM helix but requires machining.
http://www.hauckpowersportsinc.com/page ... oduct/1895
Are there other suppliers for the rollers that you know? And any thoughts on the above two with regards quality, etc.
thanks,
